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Old 21-10-2009, 18:04   #1
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Bow Rollers - Any Help?

Hi all,

I'm at the end of a 7 year refit and will be heading off for blue water very soon. I have one project left - building the bow rollers. I removed the bow pulpit as it was too shaky and too expensive to build another one. Instead I've installed hand and foot ropes to help me reach the end of the sprit. Yes, there will be a net below.

I've walked several marinas and found very few boats with bowsprits that have this set up - everyone seems to have the pulpit thing happening. Basically, I'm trying to figure out the BEST place to attach it to the boat, and a solid design. I am trying to avoid driving bolts through the bowsprit.

There will be two anchors hanging up there - 60lb CQR &44lb Bruce, running back to a Lofrans Falkon windlass. If you happen to have any experiences, ideas, and/or pics you would share to help get the creative juices flowing, they would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 21-10-2009, 18:16   #2
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Some rollers being sturdy, and others not-so-much... Remind yourself of the fact that it's load may torque the roller or fittings in some funny direction under heavy wind or tide. (bolting through the sprit really does work... they have done it that way for a bit now) happy on-the-water times!
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Old 21-10-2009, 18:37   #3
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bow rollers if sturdy enough do help get the anchopr uo out of the mud easier than without or with a bad or weak or too small one--found out the hard way onb a 37 ft sloop while dragging anchor in a silt over shale situatrion--vewry difficvult to get the anchor out of the water without a propwer roller of sufficient size.....without a windlass---even with a windlass is good to have a roller of sufficient size so as to make the lifting easier .....also for stowage makes easier than with a bad one or too small one or none.....i like the setup on my formosa--i donot have pix at present as i am not on the proper coast for that--my boat is in san diego and i am in fla---but i believe most formosas and sea wolf and ct ketches have similar set ups.....
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Old 21-10-2009, 18:47   #4
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We're fulltime cruising and most frequently anchoring. I use a snubber line to take the shock load at achor without stress on the roller, but, of course, use the roller for the lift of the anchor from it's hold. I tossed out my original aluminum roller and I;ve been very pleased with the synthetic roller than I purchased from a boat trailer application. I've used it for approx. ten years without noticing wear. 'take care and joy, Aythya crew
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Old 21-10-2009, 19:32   #5
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I'll show you how NOT to design anchor rollers on a clipper bow - just look here. I'm in the process of having a new roller designed which will run through a chain pipe thru the forward bulwarks and to a roller suspended under the bow platform, rather than over it. I'll try to post pics when it's done in a couple of weeks.

The existing anchor rollers didn't even work right with the old 45lb. CQR which came with the boat, let alone the 80lb new Manson Supreme.

I got the idea from a Hans Christian we saw in Boot Key Harbor, Marathon, FL
Cap'n Jon (KB1HTW)
S/V Beausoleil -1979 Formosa 51 Ketch
"If it's gonna happen, it's gonna happen out there." - Captain Ron
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Old 22-10-2009, 01:27   #6
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Old 29-01-2010, 00:12   #7
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New Anchor Rollers & Cransiron

It's been awhile, but here is how I solved the problem. After looking at A LOT of different set ups, i finally had some idea how my anchor rollers should be designed. I made it up using google's sketch up program (free download), & had it converted to a autocad file. sent it to a waterjet shop to cut the stainless and welded it up with the help of a friend. next came the electropolishing and mounting. all in all, i spent just under $400 start to finish and while there are a few tweaks to be made, they didn't come out half bad. Local shops wanted between $2500 and $4000 for a pair of custom rollers made from 3/16" stainless. These are 3/8" stainless plate.

Also had to build a new cransiron (sp?). it took some doing but I think we finally came up with something strong enough to anchor the rig and provide room to attach all kinds of goodies. Again we went to the waterjet shop and had them cut all the pieces. My wife designed the "N" in the cap and we had it waterjet cut from stainless as well. A good friend has access to a bronze foundry. The stainless was heated redhot and then molten bronze was poured into the "N". Once cooled we surfaced the piece and polished it. A little welding, a little electropolishing, and voila - our new cransiron! Materials, cutting, welding, and polishing cost significantly less than hiring a shop to do it all. True it cost us time, but in the end we got exactly what we wanted, and saved a bunch of $$$.

I can't recommend water jet cutting enough if you have a project involving machining stainless. It was so easy to have the parts cut exactly clamp them together, and weld them up. It saved so much time, and was actually pretty inexpensive!

If you're interested following are the shops we used for these projects.
H2o Precision in Hayward, Ca - waterjet cutting
Scientific Plating in Oakland, Ca - electropolishing
Bongiorno Fabrication in Berkeley, Ca - welding, machining, design assistance.

Feel free to send a pm if you want their contact info.
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