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Old 16-04-2010, 09:49   #31
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These are the only joiners i'd trust, used them for years Deep sea Trawling almost indestructible
Hammerlock Link - Stainless Steel - Berkeley Point & Suncor Stainless
Naut,
How do you take these apart when you want to separate the chain? How tough are they to install, i.e. can you use a small hammer or do they take some real pounding? They look like a great solution.

For back up on a C link, instead of shackling another chain on, you could weave some Dyneema line as the back up.

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Old 16-04-2010, 14:49   #32
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Naut,
How do you take these apart when you want to separate the chain? How tough are they to install, i.e. can you use a small hammer or do they take some real pounding? They look like a great solution.

For back up on a C link, instead of shackling another chain on, you could weave some Dyneema line as the back up.

Paul L
They go together just by tapping pin in with hammer, very easy. to get a part you need to punch out pin a bit harder but not too bad. we used too use them all the time when was deep sea trawling instead of shackles on our trawl gear and I can recall ever seeing one fail
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Old 16-04-2010, 14:52   #33
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Oh yes, I clearly remember an afternoon of dragging with dinghies to find an anchor chain plus anchor at 40' after a C-link failed. In the end, it was the owner himself who hooked it, amazing as there were a dozen dinghies out ;-)

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G'Day Nick,

Well, that's one! But, I wonder just what type of c-link it was? Reading the above link to the "c-link road test", one type was clearly a POS while the others were similar in strength to the base chain.

It still seems to me that if you use one of the better ones there is no great degredation of overall rode strength (if the chain is G-30, such as we use).

I would be interested in the super links that Warwick (NautiArcher) reccommends, but fear that they won't pass through the chain pipe on my vertical axis windlass. It has enough problems with the 10 mm chain all by itself!

Cheers,

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Old 16-04-2010, 15:03   #34
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They go together just by tapping pin in with hammer, very easy. to get a part you need to punch out pin a bit harder but not too bad. we used too use them all the time when was deep sea trawling instead of shackles on our trawl gear and I can recall ever seeing one fail
Thanks, I'm going to order one. I assume the pins are not re-usable, that is why they have replacement pin and bushing?

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Old 16-04-2010, 16:38   #35
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What about weldng a hammer join?

I'm thinking that when the time comes to extend my anchor chain I'll get a hammer join, grind off some of the galvanising on the mating faces, hammer it together and run a weld along the mating faces.

Can't imagine it would ever come loose.
Anyone tried this?
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Old 16-04-2010, 17:43   #36
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Boracay,

I haven't done exactly what you are proposing but we do something sort of similar for moorings. We weld a giant loop onto the end of the chain, pass the chain through the eye on the granite block then through the loop. The goal of the system is to get rid of the shackles which have a tendency to fail and cannot be undone underwater once they are badly corroded. So far it has worked well.

My concerns would be mostly related to removing the galvanizing and heating from welding. Health issues aside, that link probably won't last all that long with so much of the galvanizing removed. Also, a similarly sized link to the rest of the chain is unlikely to be as strong as the rest of the chain because of heat treating. If you went one size up and were using grade 30 chain, it would probably be as strong.
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Old 16-04-2010, 18:11   #37
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Yes, that will be strong but it will rust away very quickly?
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