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Old 10-04-2010, 23:56   #16
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Put on the "hammer it together" connecting link and after all that hammering, weld it too, incl a bead all around both sides.

But at G4 or better chain you need something stronger.

cheers,
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Old 11-04-2010, 00:14   #17
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Jim and Ann, I'm with you, I use the west marine joiners, they pass through my windlass ok.
I will never use a welded link after my friend let me use his mooring that had been improved by welding an extension on the plate under the float. It just snapped off and my yacht ended up on the beach!
The only problem I can see with them is the rusting where I belted it?
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Old 11-04-2010, 00:34   #18
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Hence a question to MarkJ - do you happen to remember what size shackles do you use for this? Asking because in my 10 mm (approx 3/8) chain I can only use a 12 mm shackle at the end link - I cannot push the pin in the middle of the chain! So I would have to go with a 10 mm shackle (probably an expensive Wichard to make up for the loss in size).

barnie
Hi Barnie,

I was just looking for it to take a photo, but I just realised where it is! About 6 foot under!

They are funny shackles. Its the shackle that fits through, not the pin. Not optimal if it had to take full force of the boat. I had to take the short piece of chain to the chandler's to find the right ones to fit. You *must* do it with the chain doubled as what may fit through one side might not fit through both!

Also note in the photo that the last link of the old chain has rusted by the SS link. The galvanising on the old chain obviously needs to be redone. I have my eye on it.
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Old 11-04-2010, 01:38   #19
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These are the only joiners i'd trust, used them for years Deep sea Trawling almost indestructible
Hammerlock Link - Stainless Steel - Berkeley Point & Suncor Stainless
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Old 11-04-2010, 03:28   #20
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Dear Nauticatarcher, you are the man! Those links look the bee's knees. Will they pass through a lewmar 10 mm gypsy, ie 3/8" I think, I have worried about my westy hammer links!
Is there a problem putting stainless with galv chain?
Thanks again.
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Old 11-04-2010, 03:37   #21
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Vyv Cox's page on C links is worth a read,

C-links

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Old 11-04-2010, 04:03   #22
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Dear Nauticatarcher, you are the man! Those links look the bee's knees. Will they pass through a lewmar 10 mm gypsy, ie 3/8" I think, I have worried about my westy hammer links!
Is there a problem putting stainless with galv chain?
Thanks again.
Dont know about gypsy compatability, you can get them in stainless or plain, try any commercial rigging outfit that deals in wire rope and chain, just ask about Hammer Locks
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Old 11-04-2010, 05:48   #23
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We use one of these to connect the anchor to the chain and might use another to join a couple of lengths together. The only difference is ours have a SWL (WLL) of 1000kgs. However not sure they would work with a windlass, which doesn't worry us as we can hand haul in if necessary.

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Old 11-04-2010, 07:50   #24
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We use one of these to connect the anchor to the chain and might use another to join a couple of lengths together. The only difference is ours have a SWL (WLL) of 1000kgs. However not sure they would work with a windlass, which doesn't worry us as we can hand haul in if necessary.

Stainless steel chain repair link
Oh my... you really must start using a shackle because those connectors are no good at all!! I had one fail on me, it bends and the threaded end just ripped out of the nut. They will fail and a regular bow shackle will be many times as strong.

ciao!
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Old 11-04-2010, 13:25   #25
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Agree with Nick, definitely dont use!! better to use a proof bow shackle and just pull by hand to get it around gypsy
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Old 11-04-2010, 14:16   #26
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[QUOTE=Pete7;435216]Vyv Cox's page on C links is worth a read,

C-links

Second this - we bought c-links from Cosbys, after discussion with Vyv and have been happy with them so far.

It's all very well to say that we should use all one pice but the money isn't as elastic as a nylon mooring warp!
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Old 11-04-2010, 14:32   #27
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G'day Pete7,

And thank you so very much for the link! Mygawd -- real data instead of opinion!

After so many years of using those links I wasn't too worried, but this set of tests may help me sleep on stormy nights.

Well done!

Jim and Ann s/v Insatiable II lying Lake Macquarie, NSW, Oz
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Old 12-04-2010, 02:26   #28
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Oh my... you really must start using a shackle because those connectors are no good at all!! I had one fail on me, it bends and the threaded end just ripped out of the nut. They will fail and a regular bow shackle will be many times as strong. ciao! Nick.
Now how did I know you were going to say that

One of the problems is actually finding shackles that have a decent SWL (WLL) rating if at all, that you would trust. Too much stuff from far eastern manufacturers in our chandlers that I just don't trust.

Off to order some shackles on line,

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Old 15-04-2010, 17:43   #29
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G'Day All,

Well, I've seen/heard this sort of statement for years, and have never heard first hand of anyone's chain breaking at one of the joins. Further, if one looks at the West Marine catalog (only reference material I have on board) the SWL for 3/8"BBB chain is 2650 lbs, and the SWL for their brand of connecting link is 2750 lbs. So, please explain to me why I should be afraid of using them? And can anyone refer me to a verified instance of one breaking in the cruising arena?

Cheers,

Jim and Ann s/v Insatiable II lying Lake Macquarie, NSW Oz
Yachting Monthly's report on links / swivels / shackles and chains comes to mind - quick links are the weakest, then goes the swivel and then the shackle, the last breaks the chain.

I have not seen those links snapped but maybe only because few people used them where I have sailed. But I did see a broken swivel.

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Old 15-04-2010, 22:36   #30
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Oh yes, I clearly remember an afternoon of dragging with dinghies to find an anchor chain plus anchor at 40' after a C-link failed. In the end, it was the owner himself who hooked it, amazing as there were a dozen dinghies out ;-)

ciao!
Nick.
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