Assembling an aluminium Fortress anchor - should I use Tefgel or similar on the bolts

[fxykty]

We’ve just purchased a new FX-37 anchor as a secondary/stern anchor. We have room in a stern locker to keep it permanently assembled and attached to its chain (only 4 m, sweet). As the anchor parts are aluminium and the nuts and bolts are stainless, should we use Tefgel and/or delrin washers to keep the fastenings isolated from the anchor parts?

[GordMay]

➥ How to Assemble a Fortress Anchor - The World's Best Anchors!

➥ https://www.overtons.com/assets/prod..._Anchoring.pdf

[noelex 77]

Using Tefgel or Duralac on the stainless steel bolts is a good idea.

These two products use very different chemistry, but both work to isolate the two dissimilar metals and reduce electrolyte contact. Plastic spacers would help further, but I think these are unnecessary. The 6061 aluminium used is not the most corrosion resistant aluminium available, but it reasonably good. Fortress anodise the surface and the mass of stainless steel is small in relation to the amount of aluminium. The anchor has a great lifetime guarantee so any problems will be sorted out.

There is often debate about which of these two products is better. My view is they are both good, but Duralac is more suited to permanent or semi permanent bolts and Tefgel is better suited to bolts that are removed more frequently.

Some people keep their Fortress permanently assembled and others dismantle the anchor to store it.

It is nice to have the option to use the 45° fluke settings, which involves removing some bolts. You have to be absolutely positive the substrate in the anchorage is very soft and is this is also the case where the anchor will be setting.

The anchor will not work at all if you try to use the 45° setting on a substrate that is too hard for this fluke angle. The 32° setting will always work so this setting is the safer option if you have any doubts.

[HankOnthewater]

I agree with above, but Duralec is not available here anymore so I have Tef-gel. However Lanoline (sheep wool) grease does an excellent job as well.

[Suijin]

I’ve not had problems with the stainless fasteners on my fortress which I keep assembled on my stern rail. I think it’s because it’s stainlesss bolt into stainless nut and no threads in the aluminum. That said I may well tefgel them. Can’t hurt.

[GordMay]

I agree with all of the comments, so far, especially noelex's comprehensive reply.

[Hartleyg]

I've had our Fortress since 1996 - usually disassembled, probably used a few dozen times as a stern anchor. There is no visible corrosion on the SS or aluminum other than minor surface aluminum oxide. I put a dab of Lanocoat on the bolts/nuts in the late 90's.
The warrantee on the Fortress is real - I had mine on the bow when we went to HI in 2000 - and succeeded in bending the stock by clipping a piling. When I wrote to Fortress to ask about buying a new one, they just sent me one, even though it was my fault entirely! I did manage to rebend the original so it still works, but it's down in "deep spares" somewhere.


Hartley
S/V Atsa

[groundtackle]

I find using any product that’s too sticky is, well, sticky and gets everywhere.
Sand and muck also gets glued to the anchor if you get a little sloppy with application. I like a lanolin base like lanicote. Down in your backyard someone brought me back some Resqsteel that isn’t sold in NA. It’s messy but a controlled mess that doesn’t easily wash off.
Anchor Right has an aluminum version of the Excel with the removable shank. One client slathered tefgel all over the shank / fluke interface and that’s a good thing but sand stuck in there. It came apart but had to fight it a little. Thin layer of lanolin based on all that take apart gear. Windlass things, steering stuff and anything else that will some day come apart.
Chris

[S/V Alchemy]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

Using Tefgel or Duralac on the stainless steel bolts is a good idea.

These two products use very different chemistry, but both work to isolate the two dissimilar metals and reduce electrolyte contact. Plastic spacers would help further, but I think these are unnecessary. The 6061 aluminium used is not the most corrosion resistant aluminium available, but it reasonably good. Fortress anodise the surface and the mass of stainless steel is small in relation to the amount of aluminium. The anchor has a great lifetime guarantee so any problems will be sorted out.

There is often debate about which of these two products is better. My view is they are both good, but Duralac is more suited to permanent or semi permanent bolts and Tefgel is better suited to bolts that are removed more frequently.

Some people keep their Fortress permanently assembled and others dismantle the anchor to store it.

It is nice to have the option to use the 45° fluke settings, which involves removing some bolts. You have to be absolutely positive the substrate in the anchorage is very soft and is this is also the case where the anchor will be setting.

The anchor will not work at all if you try to use the 45° setting on a substrate that is too hard for this fluke angle. The 32° setting will always work so this setting is the safer option if you have any doubts.

^^^ Great advice, right here. I have an FX-37 and an FX-21 as a kedge. Very good anchors for most situations, although I have a 30 kg. SPADE as my main.

[stormalong]

I have had bolts with Tefgel on them back out of my gooseneck fitting while on ocean passage - a scary thing when the gooseneck starts moving around under load. Washed out the Tefgel and replaced it with Duralac - have not had a problem since.

Duralac hardens while Tefgel is like a grease. For cyclic loads stay away from Tefgel.

[groundtackle]

Storm, spot on. Everything has a perpose.
Chris

[roverhi]

I'd have to go down and look at my Fortress anchor but don't remember any SS fastener threaded into aluminum. TefGel is supposed to limit corrosion on dissimilar metals threaded into each other. That's not the case with the Fortress. You have a clamp with the SS bolt passing unthreaded through a fairy thin piece of aluminum so almost no chance of corrosion freezing up the fastener. A little bit of Butyl or other caulk on the shaft of the bolt where it passes through the aluminum fluke should seal out water and stop any corrosion. There is very little worry of the anchor coming apart unintentionally but if you wanted to be super safe use LocTite.

[fxykty]

Thanks all. To confirm Rover, I’m only wondering about the SS nuts and bolts snugged up to the aluminium. It’s correct that there is no threading of the SS bolts into the anchor parts. There is no room for split washers on the mud palm bolts so I’m most concerned about them coming undone.

I’ll use very thin plastic washers and blue loctite on all the mud palm bolts. For the clip set bolts for the stock that have locknuts I’ll just use the washers and some lanocote.

[KP44]

I have an fx:125. I use tefgel on all shackle pins, bolts, and fasteners for my ground tackle. No galling; no problems. After a couple years, half the time underwater, the fasteners easily unbolt or unscrew and I can still feel the tefgel on the threads. Great stuff that works as it says it will.

[stainless guy]

Ditch the factory bolts and replace with xylan coated stainless fasteners if you are concerned about being able to get things apart

The only issue may be is they are blue. But you can take apart 100's of times without worry of gauling. I use them all the time in food processing plants and wineries