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Old 01-04-2023, 13:04   #1
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Anchoring technique for monohulls

Had a multihull for the past 7 years. It came with a bridle attached to the bows, an all chain, 100m. To anchor we would drop the anchor, give a little reverse to set it, then I would attach the bridge to the chain with soft shackle, let out another 25' of chain so the bridle rope would take all the strain, and back with increasing power till the bridle pulled taut.

Now I have a mono, 14k lbs, with 100' of chain and 200' of line. I am mostly interested in techniques for lunch hook and overnight in nothing more than 20kts.

Boat draws 5.5', I have a 3' tidal range, so I would be anchoring in a min of 10', hoping for 12' for overnights. So for lunch, 16' of height from the bottom * 3 or 4 is about 50-60' of chain. For overnight, I would push this up to 80-100' of rode.

1. Assuming that even for lunch, never leave the anchor only attached to the windlass, e.g. the windlass should never be taking the load, correct? If this is the case, then I would use some three strand tied to the chain from the bow cleat. Can I just use 1 side or do I need to make a bridle? How long a snubber do I need.

2. For overnight, if I let out more than 100' of rode, I get to my line, not chain. Can I tied that directly to the bow cleat, or do I need a snubber again, line tied to line? And what knot to use for this?

Probably overthinking this, but was very simple with the multi!
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Old 01-04-2023, 13:19   #2
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Re: Anchoring technique for monohulls

I can share what we do on our 43 ft ketch, but some of what we do may not apply to other vessels. For instance, we use a bridle instead of a single snubber because we have a bowsprit with a bobstay that could interfere a single snubber on occasion...

RE: Setting the anchor; it depends upon the anchor type (most manufactureres post recommended procedures and scopes), bottom type, maximum depth during stay, anticipated conditions (e.g., anchor choice), swing room, etc.

I detail our approaches in this detailed blog post if you are interested.

Have fun with your new boat!

Cheers, Bill
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Old 01-04-2023, 13:25   #3
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Re: Anchoring technique for monohulls

There are a gazillion anchoring threads on this forum. Just root around and you'll find them. It's a topic that has been discussed, analyzed, fretted over, etc, ad infinitum. You are bound to find something to answer your question.
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Old 01-04-2023, 13:33   #4
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Re: Anchoring technique for monohulls

Quote:
Originally Posted by wrwakefield View Post
I can share what we do on our 43 ft ketch, but some of what we do may not apply to other vessels. For instance, we use a bridle instead of a single snubber because we have a bowsprit with a bobstay that could interfere a single snubber on occasion...

RE: Setting the anchor; it depends upon the anchor type (most manufactureres post recommended procedures and scopes), bottom type, maximum depth during stay, anticipated conditions (e.g., anchor choice), swing room, etc.

I detail our approaches in this detailed blog post if you are interested.

Have fun with your new boat!

Cheers, Bill
Thanks. I do have a short spirit, for the gennaker and roller. Also just noticed that there is some attachment point below it, not sure if that is for a bridle.

I guess with the roller out over the water, it might be better to use a bridle as with my cat.

Still not sure what to do when I let out more rode without chain. Will read your thread.

Yes, I searched anchor threads, there are only a gabillion of them on the forum, and I had very pointed questions.
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Old 01-04-2023, 13:38   #5
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Re: Anchoring technique for monohulls

I usually lay out at least 5:1 in shallow waters, measured against the high tide level. I'll lay out more if I can, but would want more like 7:1 if I knew we were staying for a long time, or if there was a blow coming.

My snubber is run as a bridle on my monohull. You can use a single line -- many monos do. I prefer the redundancy of two. I think it helps limit any sailing around on anchor. It also allows me to adjust the angle we lay to accommodate rolling waves.

My snubbers are forty feet long, each side. I usually let out about 20-30 feet, but more if needed.

You can certainly use your rope rode as the snubber, but you'll need to let out around 30-40 feet of the rope portion. So in your case, you'll need to get to at least 130'. Otherwise, I would use a nylon snubber.
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Old 01-04-2023, 13:44   #6
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Re: Anchoring technique for monohulls

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbinbi View Post
Thanks. I do have a short spirit, for the gennaker and roller. Also just noticed that there is some attachment point below it, not sure if that is for a bridle.

I guess with the roller out over the water, it might be better to use a bridle as with my cat.

Still not sure what to do when I let out more rode without chain. Will read your thread.

Yes, I searched anchor threads, there are only a gabillion of them on the forum, and I had very pointed questions.
I too have a bow sprit and use a bridle but given that arrangement I would put a single snubber using a higher stretch line such as nylon anchor ride from the attachment point forward to the chain.

I typically attach my bridle to the chain using a sort of derivative of a klemheist. I would probably continue with something of that fashion if I had a bow such as yours.

Note: The reason I use a bridle instead of a snubber is not because I have a bowsprit but because the chains that attach the bowsprit are really close to the waterline. If we use a snubber from near the rail and we sit side to the wind our snubber puts pressure on the chains coming off the bow sprit and chafes badly. Which also makes a ton of noise as the rode slides up and down those chains.
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Old 01-04-2023, 14:17   #7
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Re: Anchoring technique for monohulls

I wouldn't think the process would be much different from the cat.

For "lunch," a single snubber is fine. I would still use one to get the load off the windlass as you said. The length would depend on the situation. If a short stay in protected water then the snubber can also be short, maybe just enough to clear the hull (i.e. not really using it for shock absorption, just to unload the windlass). If longer stay, or rougher weather or boat wakes, then a longer more standard length is needed.

For overnight, what Mike said.

I like a hook/grabber as more convenient than tying or shackle. Some are easy to release off the chain (i.e. fall free, like ours) by easing the snubber if you want to let more chain out without bringing chain in first (can't do with shackle or tying) and then resetting snubber.

We use a bridle setup with two lines to a single hook. However, this was for a backup system. We didn't set with equal length/load on the two legs, but rather gave one side a couple extra feet so normally slack but would assume the load if the working side broke. We have an appropriate shackle to fit the chain aboard too, but would only use it for longer stays or perhaps a storm (haven't used it yet). We also have a single line snubber, but rarely use that too.

I wouldn't use that bow eye unless/until you inspect the bolting and backing plate situation. Or check with the manufacturer or other authority. It may be designed for it or maybe not.
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Old 01-04-2023, 14:40   #8
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Re: Anchoring technique for monohulls

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Originally Posted by jbinbi View Post
...
Still not sure what to do when I let out more rode without chain. Will read your thread.
...
I use a Prusik hitch to connect the bridle to the anchor rode because it holds better than alternative hitches, and will still hold if one side loses its purchase (breaks) - unlike a cowhitch.

A Prusik works equally well on chain and rope- as long as the rope portions are similar diameters...

Details and photos of my approach in the link I provided above.

Cheers, Bill
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Old 01-04-2023, 21:05   #9
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Re: Anchoring technique for monohulls

I would echo what everyone has said. If you have 30' of rope rode out you could add a snubber with a Prusik hitch, but I can't think of why it would be necessary. The only thing to consider is that if you are in 20 or 25' of water some of that rope rode will be on the bottom, so be sure there is nothing to chafe it down there.

That fitting below the sprit; I don't know what it is for but I wouldn't trust it for a snubber.
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Old 01-04-2023, 21:59   #10
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Re: Anchoring technique for monohulls

I've never used a bridle on any of our monohull cruising boats... just a simple nylon snubber with a chain hook, run over the bow roller and tied off to a center line sampson post or cleat. Currently use 16 mm double braid nylon snubber, usually about 10 meters deployed. This isn't as stretchy as some folks like, bt it reduces the shock loads adequately and doesn't sling-shot us around as much as three strand tends to do.

This philosophy has worked now for nearly 10,000 nights at anchor, so I trust it!

Jim

PS In recent months we've been lying to a mooring that we bought in Port Cygnet. It was designed with a short bridle as part, so we've been using a bridle... 'cause it was there. Can't say that it makes the boat lie more stably and there seems to be more chafe running through the chocks than over the roller .
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Old 02-04-2023, 05:37   #11
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Re: Anchoring technique for monohulls

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Originally Posted by wrwakefield View Post
I can share what we do on our 43 ft ketch,

I detail our approaches in this detailed blog post if you are interested.

Cheers, Bill
BTW, just to say, you have a fantastic blog. Great piece of work!
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Old 02-04-2023, 08:39   #12
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Re: Anchoring technique for monohulls

Lying to our snubber in about 25 kt wind speed at Cabrillo Beach anchorage in 15 ft depth. Snubber is 25 ft of 5/8” 3-strand nylon rope with SS chain hook attached. Snubber is veered through bow roller with the chain, led aft through a snatch block attached to a strong point then stopped at the bow cleat. Very quick to deploy and especially to recover! Simply pull in with the chain using the windlass. Hook usually just drops away from chain. Can hitch to snubber line aft of snatch block to center it and share the load there between the two bow cleats.
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Old 02-04-2023, 13:20   #13
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Re: Anchoring technique for monohulls

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Originally Posted by jbinbi View Post
BTW, just to say, you have a fantastic blog. Great piece of work!
Thank you. I’m glad you found something of interest in there…

Cheers, Bill
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Old 10-04-2023, 07:05   #14
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Re: Anchoring technique for monohulls

+1 on Bill's bridle strategy what we've adopted as well, reviewing the link he provides is a good idea.

No need for a snubber if you let out your rode 15+ feet beyond the 100' of chain!

Quote:
Originally Posted by wrwakefield View Post
I can share what we do on our 43 ft ketch, but some of what we do may not apply to other vessels. For instance, we use a bridle instead of a single snubber because we have a bowsprit with a bobstay that could interfere a single snubber on occasion...

RE: Setting the anchor; it depends upon the anchor type (most manufactureres post recommended procedures and scopes), bottom type, maximum depth during stay, anticipated conditions (e.g., anchor choice), swing room, etc.

I detail our approaches in this detailed blog post if you are interested.

Have fun with your new boat!

Cheers, Bill
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Old 10-04-2023, 07:23   #15
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Re: Anchoring technique for monohulls

We use the same anchor for short lunch or swim stops as for overnights, a 20k Bruce with the leading edge sharpened for better penetration in hard sand. In soft mud, which we try to avoid, we switch to a Danforth. It has about 30' of 5/16" chain then 200' of 9/16" three strand nylon. The short stops in calm or light wind have a scope of maybe 3 or 4:1 while overnights will have 6 or 7:1, a little more if the wind is expected to kick up. As for a snubber, the 9/16 nylon seems to provide adequate shock resistance. The deepest we've anchored is about 50' but most of our anchorages are usually 10-15' deep.

As for not using the windlass to secure the rode, we replaced the cleat ahead of the windlass with a 4" diameter knurled post secured with a large backing plate. The four bolts securing it are placed much further apart than the ones holding the cleat to provide greater stability and torque resistance. Three turns around the post then using the windlass to remove the slack has worked for years. The post has high friction and multiplies it with every turn.
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