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Old 19-01-2011, 23:36   #121
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Most of the metal failures I've had on board were from crevice corrosion on stainless steel parts. That alone keeps me from trusting my boat on stainless anchoring gear. Notice that most swivels use pins that are less in diameter than your chain. As for my mooring buoy, I've found that the underwater swivel gets easily fouled by marine growth and disabled and it's virtually impossible to assess the condition of the parts. It will be removed this spring as I'm not going to trust it any longer. I've found a few mooring balls washed up on the beach that have failed at the swivel.
Sometimes I get a little annoyed a bit of wound up chain to straighten out but after seeing my boat on the beach once I want to avoid a repeat.
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Old 20-01-2011, 00:55   #122
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Most of the metal failures I've had on board were from crevice corrosion on [poor quality or inappropriate grades of] stainless steel parts.
There I fixed it for you.

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Notice that most swivels use pins that are less in diameter than your chain.
What? If that's what you chose, then: obviously. So, don't.
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Old 20-01-2011, 04:13   #123
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Well I'm lost.

What has been decided about anchor swivels here - yes or no?
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Old 20-01-2011, 04:27   #124
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Nothing. Do you need one? Then go select a decent quality one with a tested break load in excess of the chain, install it with at least a shackle between it and the anchor shank, and go sailing.
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Old 20-01-2011, 05:06   #125
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Well I'm lost.

What has been decided about anchor swivels here - yes or no?
Well, read back through the posts. There is no consensus, but lots of useful information. You will have to make up your own mind.

I think the main camps are:

1. Never, ever, ever should you put a swivel into your ground tackle. It's an inherent weak point and a danger to life and limb.

2. A swivel is ok if you really need one to get your anchor into your bow roller. Just don't choose an undersized and/or crappy one.

Personally I am in the second camp, which is most eloquently represented by Craig Smith, but you have to decide for yourself. My swivel, without which I could simply not stow my anchor, cost a fortune -- a significant fraction of the cost of the 100 meters of 12mm chain. But it is rated stronger than the chain itself -- even in side load it is stronger than the chain. So I don't worry much about my swivel. YMMV.
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Old 20-01-2011, 10:57   #126
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Well, read back through the posts. There is no consensus, but lots of useful information. You will have to make up your own mind.

I think the main camps are:

1. Never, ever, ever should you put a swivel into your ground tackle. It's an inherent weak point and a danger to life and limb.

2. A swivel is ok if you really need one to get your anchor into your bow roller. Just don't choose an undersized and/or crappy one.

Personally I am in the second camp, which is most eloquently represented by Craig Smith, but you have to decide for yourself. My swivel, without which I could simply not stow my anchor, cost a fortune -- a significant fraction of the cost of the 100 meters of 12mm chain. But it is rated stronger than the chain itself -- even in side load it is stronger than the chain. So I don't worry much about my swivel. YMMV.
You forgot the sub-debate: the allegation that stainless steel is insidious and dodgy and will rot off a galvanised chain with no warning.

I would ask in response if any galvanised swivels exist?

I would also ask if, like the familiar "trailer hitch Hail Mary chain", any skippers run a small length of chain from the shank back to the chain, keeping the anchor attached should the shackles/swivel fail.

This would allow the recovery of the anchor, at least. Assuming, of course, that the "safety chain" did not itself break or foul.

Anyway, a very informative discussion on a contentious topic.
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Old 20-01-2011, 11:06   #127
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I would also ask if, like the familiar "trailer hitch Hail Mary chain", any skippers run a small length of chain from the shank back to the chain, keeping the anchor attached should the shackles/swivel fail.

This would allow the recovery of the anchor, at least. Assuming, of course, that the "safety chain" did not itself break or foul.
What exactly would that look like after the swivel swiveled in the same direction say..... 20 times? Which would twist off, the swivel, the safety chain or both?

Just askin,
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Old 20-01-2011, 11:19   #128
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... I would ask in response if any galvanised swivels exist? ...
SeaDog Galvanized Anchor Swivels

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Old 20-01-2011, 11:49   #129
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Hello Irwinsailor,

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I have a stainless jaw jaw on my Delta anchor. I have been wondering if a swivel is a good idea. I have read that the swivel is the most likely place for a brake. What are your thoughts?
I have two Bruce anchors on my Irwin, over here in Florida they seem to work better than the three boat I have seen drag lately.
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Old 20-01-2011, 11:49   #130
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What exactly would that look like after the swivel swiveled in the same direction say..... 20 times? Which would twist off, the swivel, the safety chain or both?

Just askin,
Extemp.
So am I. I don't know if it's a stupid idea to pursue or not. I'm wondering if this is even feasible in a tidal situation. On Lake Ontario, I will freely admit I miss the bigger picture, even though squalls can give us a lot of veering wind and sudden gusts that inform our technique...
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Old 20-01-2011, 11:51   #131
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SeaDog Galvanized Anchor Swivels

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Gord, I am familiar with those, of course. I have several aboard. What I meant is are there galvanized swivels of the Powerball or Quickline type? They all seem to be SS or plastic coated SS, which I find dubious...putting plastic over SS in salt water, I mean.
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Old 20-01-2011, 11:58   #132
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Gord,

Some of those swivel pins have a welded on nut. A number of times the weld corrodes away and the swivel fail by releasing the nut. I drill a 3/16" hole through the nut and pin, drive a galvanised nail through, cut off, and peen over the end. I do this to my ground chain and bounce chain shackles as well. In my area, this stand up better than lacing wire, which gets ground away on the rocky bottom.
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Old 20-01-2011, 12:01   #133
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Gord,

Some of those swivel pins have a welded on nut. A number of times the weld corrodes away and the swivel fail by releasing the nut. I drill a 3/16" hole through the nut and pin, drive a galvanised nail through, cut off, and peen over the end. I do this to my ground chain and bounce chain shackles as well. In my area, this stand up better than lacing wire, which gets ground away on the rocky bottom.
What's a "bounce chain"?
I haven't heard that term before.

Thanks,
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Old 20-01-2011, 12:32   #134
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Here in Bermuda, we put down moorings to withstand hurricanes, many on rocky bottoms which wear away the chains.
Bluestocking swings in front of my house in 25ft of water with an average 4ft tidal range.
My mooring weight is an 8 ton flywheel from a Fairbanks Morse industrial generator, shackled to 15ft of 1 3/4" ships chain to take up the extreme hurricane surge. Double 6ft lengths of 3/4" chain are shackled between the ground chain ,and the 5/8" upchain to my deck. The 3/4" chain (bounce) takes the wear in the tidal range, and usually lasts 3 yrs.
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Old 20-01-2011, 13:50   #135
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Gord,

Some of those swivel pins have a welded on nut. A number of times the weld corrodes away and the swivel fail by releasing the nut. I drill a 3/16" hole through the nut and pin, drive a galvanised nail through, cut off, and peen over the end. I do this to my ground chain and bounce chain shackles as well. In my area, this stand up better than lacing wire, which gets ground away on the rocky bottom.
This reminds me of the method of putting a bolt through a shround termination in an open turnbuckle instead of the customary cotter pin or ring.
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