Anchor shackle or direct splice to chain?

[djousset]

Thanks for all the input, I've learned a lot! I ended up with 200' of 3/4 line, splice to thimble and shackle to chain (yes I did mouse the shackle pin). I only have about 10 feet of chain currently, and plan to add to that. With no windlass, for the immediate future it's my guns only pulling it in......I am getting proficient at finding moorings....

[MicHughV]

y'know...I sailed for years with a double anchor setup....75' chain followed by nylon rode, thimble and shackle connection, never ever had problem anywhere.....no windlass..not much of anything..plain and simple...pulled it up by hand each and every time....anchored everywhere....and anywhere...on the few occasions I needed help bringing the anchor up, I led the rode to a mast halyard winch, and cranked...nylon rode...anchor chain...no matter..around the winch it went, and up it went...easy peasy.....y'all are making too much outa this thing....

[mikeo16]

10 feet of chain is extremely light gor a 33 foot boat located in NH. I would recommend 50 feet

[Lost Horizons]

Originally Posted by MicHughV

y'know...I sailed for years with a double anchor setup....75' chain followed by nylon rode....

All those years of sailing and still have not learnt the terminology?

[Frank60]

Originally Posted by HankOnthewater

That splice is just as easy as a splice around a thimble. Yes, most boaters are concerned about the chafe on the rope to chain splice. My advice then is to cut the end of the rope and re-splice every year or two. In these changes I have never seen any problematic chafe.

I just tried cutting off some rope and re-splicing as I was concerned about chafe. As I tried to splice, the three main strands unraveled significantly to the point that it became a complete mess. So I cut off some more and tried again. Same problem. Reversed the rope and used the end that never goes in the water. It was a little better but still same problem. I did not have this problem when I spliced with the new rope. I concluded that re-splicing using an old rope just doesn't work. The rope is 5/8, 2 years old and used only in fresh water. Has anyone been successful re-splicing an old rope? Is there a trick to it?

[Apollo366]

I always tape the ends to keep them together and easier to inset too.

[HopCar]

Originally Posted by Frank60

I just tried cutting off some rope and re-splicing as I was concerned about chafe. As I tried to splice, the three main strands unraveled significantly to the point that it became a complete mess. So I cut off some more and tried again. Same problem. Reversed the rope and used the end that never goes in the water. It was a little better but still same problem. I did not have this problem when I spliced with the new rope. I concluded that re-splicing using an old rope just doesn't work. The rope is 5/8, 2 years old and used only in fresh water. Has anyone been successful re-splicing an old rope? Is there a trick to it?

Soft rope is a bitch to splice.

First wrap several layers of masking tape at the point you want to cut it.
Cut down through the tape and rope so that it holds the end of the rope together.
Figure out how far you need to unravel the strands and bind the rope at that point with strong twine. This is to keep it from unraveling too far.
Now the tricky part. Free the strands one at a time from the masking tape and tape the end of each strand before it unravels. I use a razor knife to cut the tape between the strands.
A rope to chain splice is a type of back splice. Just leave the twine in place and bury it in the splice.
When the splice is complete, cut the strands close to the splice and use a torch to melt the ends back into the splice. This will lock the splice.
It’s going to be ugly.

[SV__Grace]

Originally Posted by HopCar

Soft rope is a bitch to splice.

First wrap several layers of masking tape at the point you want to cut it.
Cut down through the tape and rope so that it holds the end of the rope together.
Figure out how far you need to unravel the strands and bind the rope at that point with strong twine. This is to keep it from unraveling too far.
Now the tricky part. Free the strands one at a time from the masking tape and tape the end of each strand before it unravels. I use a razor knife to cut the tape between the strands.
A rope to chain splice is a type of back splice. Just leave the twine in place and bury it in the splice.
When the splice is complete, cut the strands close to the splice and use a torch to melt the ends back into the splice. This will lock the splice.
It’s going to be ugly.

Good write up. I agree that it's ugly, also messy and challenging with all the strands separated into spaghetti between the taped ends and the start of the splice. But plenty strong- doesn't have to be neat to work well!

[Frank60]

Originally Posted by SV__Grace

Good write up. I agree that it's ugly, also messy and challenging with all the strands separated into spaghetti between the taped ends and the start of the splice. But plenty strong- doesn't have to be neat to work well!

Yeah, that was the issue. The three main strands unraveled into spaghetti as I tried to splice. I did tape the ends. It just untwisted completely as I tried to splice. I found it hard to keep track of what I was doing with that mess. With the new rope, this didn't happen. Good to know this is 'normal' with old rope. My OCD says that it needs to look good too though. Are we sure it's just as strong as when the strands are twisted?

I did also take the old splice apart to inspect the amount of chafe, and it was fine. I didn't really need to re-splice after all.

[SV__Grace]

Originally Posted by Frank60

Yeah, that was the issue. The three main strands unraveled into spaghetti as I tried to splice. I did tape the ends. It just untwisted completely as I tried to splice. I found it hard to keep track of what I was doing with that mess. With the new rope, this didn't happen. Good to know this is 'normal' with old rope. My OCD says that it needs to look good too though. Are we sure it's just as strong as when the strands are twisted?

I did also take the old splice apart to inspect the amount of chafe, and it was fine. I didn't really need to re-splice after all.

When the splice is complete I don't think being messy spaghetti clusters changes the strength of the splice, it's got just as much mass/line as before.

But that's just an opinion, I don't -know-. When using rope to chain splice I always keep an eye on it when raising anchor so I can spot chafe or problems early.

Whether the rope is old or new, large or small, nylon or poly, don't be complacent and assume it's OK, it takes no time at all to inspect the splice (or all of your ground tackle) every time you raise anchor.

[Breaking Waves]

Originally Posted by SV__Grace

I don't think being messy spaghetti clusters changes the strength of the splice

The key for strength is that all the filaments are equally tensionned/loaded.

If they are not then you have lost stretngth.

If they are (equally tensionned/loaded), even if they are unbraided, you are good. In fact you might be better if they are unbraided because it will lower the D/d on the bending point. So take care and pull everything equally tight at each step.

If the end splice looks really messy . . . it is quite likely that the filaments are not equally tensioned/loaded.

[barnakiel]

I do this splice on octoplait quite often. I always taper it.


I will use green marker (flamaster) on Z strands and red on S strands. Looks mickey mouse when done but helps make the splice fast and the color pattern tells me if I am going right.


I never use 3-strand on anchors anymore as I find the 8plait to take up much less space in the locker.



Many ways to skin that cat.



b.