Anchor raised itself

[s/v Jedi]

This is the right product to add between the fuse/breaker and the motor in the heavy gauge positive wire. A small diameter control cable runs to the normal size control switch that you can mount in a convenient location.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/770..._-_12V_DC_500A

These sell at high discount on Amazon now and then

[ggray]

Cool!
I will have to consider this.


We had an incident many years ago when the windlass refused to turn off (as we were raising the anchor) when the button was released. Turning the panel switch off had no effect, so I switched off the main battery switch, fortunately before the anchor was all up.


After that incident, I installed a battery disconnect switch right at the windlass, and while I'm glad I did, we have never had a repeat where the switch was needed.




I don't use this switch to prevent the OP's event, but perhaps I should. This Blue Sea switch would be more convenient, and still give the manual option right at the windlass.


Thanks!

[tkeithlu]

Maybe it's because my system is primitive, but why is your anchor chain attached only to the windlass? Why is it not cleated down independent of the windlass? I don't think I'd anchor without securing the rode to the boat itself.

[CaptTom]

Originally Posted by tkeithlu

Maybe it's because my system is primitive, but why is your anchor chain attached only to the windlass? Why is it not cleated down independent of the windlass? I don't think I'd anchor without securing the rode to the boat itself.

From post #1:

Originally Posted by felizcortez

...I got lucky the windlass stopped after it jammed on the snubber lines and I was able to turn off the breaker quickly...

[felizcortez]

Originally Posted by tkeithlu

Maybe it's because my system is primitive, but why is your anchor chain attached only to the windlass? Why is it not cleated down independent of the windlass? I don't think I'd anchor without securing the rode to the boat itself.

I have a chain stopper that was engaged and also the snubber lines attached to the cleats at the bow. The chain stopper only prevents the chain from going out further not from pulling in the chain.

[Rucksta]

Wire the anchor switches in series with engine start circuit.

[tkeithlu]

Bravo, Rusksta! A simple form of safety engineering. I would say "idiot proofing," but only in the context of my often being a idiot at this level. If I'd never done anything embarrassing, I would not know what the word meant.

[Bycrick]

A similar problem just occurred with me. Hauled out, chain all on the ground to repaint marks. Using the windlass to pull the chain from the ground to restow it. Push foot switch; all good. Let up on foot switch; windlass keeps running. Shut off breaker that provides 12v to the control circuit, ie footswitch and solenoid. Still keeps running. Finally a link of chain jammed in the spurring pipe, which popped the main 150a circuit breaker.

Problem was a fancy control box supplied with the 1980 Nilsson windlass. It was supposed to provide over-current protection and had a potted printed circuit board that controlled the high-current solenoid. When examined, it had a burned spot in the epoxy coating and apparently shorted out internally, holding the solenoid energized.

Lesson learned: you need positive ways, easily accessible, to shut off both the control circuit and the motor circuit of the windlass.

[meirriba]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

This has happened to me also!


It's awful. So I now switch off the windlass power when not in use. However, this bothers me because of the prospect of emergeny reanchoring in a sudden storm and forgetting to switch it back on. These damn things should be more reliable.

I admit that the problem of the windlass starting to work by itself never occurred to me...
Now I am thinking about a standard procedure of closing down its breaker when not in actual use.
It will need training of all people aboard (especially guests if any) to be able to find and operate the switch in emergency re-anchoring).

[IAmGroot]

Wow - shutting down the windlass breaker was not part of our SOP before but DEFINITELY is now. Thanks for the real-world experiences folks...

Too many scary images going through my head of the windlass ripping the pulpit off, or even worse, ripping the forward crossbeam off a catamaran for a crossbeam-mounted roller. (Has this ever happened to anyone?) Potentially irresistible force...and a potentially moveable object.

Also...NEVER letting small children or animals near the chain while the windlass is energized. (Before, my rule was just during an anchoring operation - but this thread is making me show a little more respect for the windlass...)

[felizcortez]

Originally Posted by IAmGroot

Wow - shutting down the windlass breaker was not part of our SOP before but DEFINITELY is now. Thanks for the real-world experiences folks...

Too many scary images going through my head of the windlass ripping the pulpit off, or even worse, ripping the forward crossbeam off a catamaran for a crossbeam-mounted roller. (Has this ever happened to anyone?) Potentially irresistible force...and a potentially moveable object.

Also...NEVER letting small children or animals near the chain while the windlass is energized. (Before, my rule was just during an anchoring operation - but this thread is making me show a little more respect for the windlass...)

I have been sharing this story with everyone we know and I would say 75 percent of them didn't shut the breaker off before. They have all stated they are changing their procedure now.

[Scorpius]

There was an incident when we were cruising in the western Caribbean where, with the owners off the boat, the deck switch shorted and started the anchor winch. It pulled the anchor right up into the rollers stalling the motor - which overheated and started a fire. The boat drifted ashore and burned to the waterline.

TURN OFF THE BREAKER OR WHATEVER EXCEPT WHEN ACTUALLY USING THE WINCH.

(Scorpius has a hydraulic winch driven by the engine so this isn't an issue for me. I have others!

[Max Time]

I had a similar, near-terrifying experience when anchoring our "new" old Bristol 30 on our first cruise after several shakedowns aboard the 35-year-old boat. The windlass has a foot switch in the bow and an up-off-down in the cockpit. I manually eased the anchor into the water before touching the foot switch with my toe to release it and let the chain pay out. It took about a second to realize the switch was wired backwards, and the anchor was coming back aboard! Releasing the toe switch didn't stop it, so I ran back to the cockpit, threw the switch to off and dashed for the breaker at the bottom of the companionway to make sure. The windlass motor had stopped by the time I cut the breaker, but I wasn't taking any chances. When I got back to the bow, the anchor shank had nicked the pulpit but didn't break anything before the cockpit switch stopped the chain. I was very lucky. Clearly, those switches had escaped our attention during our day-sailing trials.

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

This is not an uncommon incident. As has been mentioned, foot switches are the most frequent culprit (which is one good reason not to have them) but they are not the only cause of this problem.

I think it is worthwhile always turning off the windlass when it not in use even though this will make the anchor slightly slower to retrieve in an emergency situation (the anchor can usually still be dropped by loosening the clutch even if there is no power to the windlass).

The other consideration that has not been mentioned is stray current corrosion (often slightly incorrectly termed electrolysis). Electrical anchor winches are a reasonably common cause of this problem. This can eat the zincs rapidly and in more severe cases cause corrosion to the stern gear or rudder stock. Turning the windlass off when not in use reduces the time when this corrosion can occur. Unfortunately, to eliminate this problem both the negative and the positive supply to the windlass needs to be broken. Turning off the breaker or the battery switch will often only cut the positive supply, leaving the windlass connected to negative battery terminal. It will not operate in this state, but it can still produce stray current corrosion.

The best solution is to fit a double pole battery switch to the power supply for the windlass. The Blue Sea 5510e is a good example. This will break both the positive and negative supply. Switching this off when the windlass is not in use will prevent inadvertent operation and at the same time eliminate one cause of stray current corrosion.

Photo from Blue Sea:

This is absolutely spot on. I added a giant switch to our negative right next to the breaker. I had measured stray current and this stopped it but not before the chain was ruined. This also greatly extended the life of the boat zincs. We ALWAYS isolate the windlass electrical except to haul chain. We have a big foot switch that is a direct contactor, not a relay. When the rubber cap fails, water enters the switch and makes short work of the copper.

[AndyEss]

Thank you for this thread. I never even considered this situation - it was an unknown unknown to me. I usually am pretty good about shutting off the breaker (will check if it is double pole) because of fire concerns ( those big cables can carry a lot of current) but hadn’t even imagined a faulty foot switch.
I had also considered adding a dedicated winch circuit battery close to the winch, but a second breaker at the bow would further complicate safety - and add time to cutting power to the winch in an emergency situation.