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Old 28-12-2009, 18:13   #31
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Okay, I'm going to try to attach a couple of pictures of my bow and windlass. I have foward chocks...and my bow cleats are really more forward beam cleats. But I do have the samson post. I usually have my bow lines now around the post and out the chocks so I can use my forward cleats as spring lines. So...as you can see, I have a double roller. Our plow is attached to the windlass, the danforth's rode is in a second locker, manual only. There is a locking mechanism there, basically looks like an allan wrench that screws through a link to hold the chain in place. But I wouldn't want that little thing to hold much tension. (would I?)

So ya'll are saying I should set my anchor, screw in the locking screw, then let out enough more chain to wrap back around to the post? Am I still following?

If I use the bridle, do I tie off to the samson post or the bow cleats? is one option better/worse than the other? The bridle method surely has to hang below the bowsprit (like in the picture above)...not follow the rode through the rollers. Only the snubber would follow over the roller...yes?

I know I must sound like an idiot...but seeing as the anchoring technique is so important...I need to make sure I don't have any extra questions!

Thanks again...(hoping the pictures attach)
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Old 28-12-2009, 18:25   #32
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for a single line snubber, you'd drop and set your anchor. Once that's done, take your snubber and attach the bitter end over the samson post. I'd lead the line down the port side of the windlass, then between the roller and the wildcat(chain wheel on the windlass) attach the line to the chain. Once the snubber is attached to the chain you lower the anchor chain, allowing it to take the snubber out with it, until the snubber is carrying the boat, and the chain goes slack between the windlass and where you attached the snubber to it. At this point you can do one of two things.
1. Sundowners
2. remove the chain from the wildcat and tie it to that nice pretty shiny
post.
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Old 29-12-2009, 06:27   #33
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You seem to have the typical power yacht setup except with the wiser addition of the second anchor in the bow platform.
- - On such a system it is typical to use a bridle which is made from 3-strand nylon with one "leg" going from the deck cleat (you don't seem to have any up on the platform abeam the windlass) or samson post through the chock on one side and then down to a "plate" that has a groove the slips between links on the anchor chain. The second line of the bridle does the same thing but on the opposite side of the bow.
- - One very important thing to determine is if there are any hull/deck corners that will deflect the bridle lines before they get to the chocks and head on down to the anchor chain. It looks like the corners of the raised windlass platform might interfere with a free and clear run of the bridle lines from samson post to chocks. The stretching of the bridle lines will "eat" into any corners of the cabin top/hull and /or chaff the bridle lines.
- - The same principle applies to the suggested single line following the anchor chain pathway from windlass to bow platform/anchor storage chocks and over the side. It is important to determine which system works best from chaff and "dancing the anchor" situations.
- - Some installations on power yachts I have seen have a short strong steel cable attached to the samson post and available to attach to the chain after the bridle or single snubber is rigged. This allows you to remove the chain from the windlass (wildcat/gypsy) and protect the windlass from a major shock load should the bridle/snubber fail. In some installations it is not practical or possible to install a separate chain stopper so the cable serves as the chain stopper.
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Old 29-12-2009, 07:07   #34
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For a very thorough and enlightening book on all things anchoring and mooring, I recommend Earl Hinz's seminal work; "The Complete Book of Anchoring and Mooring"
Amazon.com: The Complete Book of Anchoring and Mooring (9780870335396): Earl R. Hinz: Books
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