40 Ft. - Windlass Choices

[Terra Nova]

On the install, take great care in boring deep holes at 90 degrees--use a large V-block or guide. Make the backing plate(s) extra large to spread the load. And epoxy coat all raw/cut edges. Run heavier gauge wire than you think you need. Use thru-bulkhead glands into the chain locker. Keep electronics out of the chain locker.

[DDabs]

OK, so I am thinking about the Maxwell RC10-10. They have a low-profile model and one with a capstan. Is having the capstan option just to be able to use the windlass as a winch and have rope as well? (complete windlass noob here)

[Terra Nova]

Correct.

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by DDabs

OK, so I am thinking about the Maxwell RC10-10. They have a low-profile model and one with a capstan. Is having the capstan option just to be able to use the windlass as a winch and have rope as well? (complete windlass noob here)

Ours is a Maxwell RC10-10, with rope/chain wheel, and it has worked well so far (29K-lbs boat). I would have preferred the model with the extra capstan, but the windlass is mounted in a depression covered by the hatch over our rope locker, so we didn't have clearance for that.

Maxwell recommends their 8-plait rope in that gypsy, if you use any rope in your rode, so that's what I got... and that works well too.

You can use the capstan independently for a whole 'nother rope rode, if you like, back-up or secondary anchor, etc.

-Chris

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by DDabs

OK, so I am thinking about the Maxwell RC10-10. They have a low-profile model and one with a capstan. Is having the capstan option just to be able to use the windlass as a winch and have rope as well? (complete windlass noob here)

The capstan can be handy at times for sure.
Regarding drilling the holes.. DO NOT use a right angle drill guide or V block... unless your deck has no crown to it (most have crown or curve).
A right angle drill guide will just make your holes at an angle!

[Terra Nova]

You cannot mount it to a crowned deck--it must have a flat mounting surface. So needs a mounting block/pad.

[Cheechako]

I don't know if I've seen a sailboat without a crowned deck before. I suppose there may be some out there. Yeah, a teak block (or starboard) would be good to level things out. Although I would guess the crown is less than 1/8" so 5200 would fill it up too. Done that before.

[Terra Nova]

5200 is a great product with many uses. It's always in my kit. Many pieces of deck hardware can be mounted without concern for crown. But a vertical capstan windlass (especially) typically requires a solid, flat mounting surface with the load spread out by installing an oversize backing plate.

Common practice is to fabricate a fairing block (often teak) which is shaped with the deck's curve, on the bottom, and a flat (and usually horizontal) top. This helps to avoid distorting the windlass's housing or causing binding on its shaft. It raises the chain off the deck and can also facilitate making a more perfect seal.

Where a fairing block must be avoided, one can create a flat mounting surface by proper application of high strength epoxy filler. After cure, a small amount of fairing might be required prior to bedding the windlass.

[botanybay]

Originally Posted by chouliha

Have you looked at the Lighthouse windlass? We have had one onboard full time cruising since 2005 and it's been great.
Chuck

Strong second here.

I had installed a maxwell 1200 in the mid 90s and it failed early, manual override was a nightmare.

Replaced with a lighthouse and it was bulletproof. Manual override is spectacular. This was on a cruising cal 35

Friends 43 footer had a lewmar, it did not hold up for cruising. Manual override requires additional parts and reconfiguration. Replaced with a lofrans 1500 which has worked very well. Manual override works well.

[DDabs]

Lighthouse looks fantastic, but completely out of my price range.

[Tayana42]

Check Minnie's Marine Surplus. Last time I was there I saw new in the box Lofrans Tirges windlass at a very good price.


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