Often you can loosen the nut on top of the flywheel a few threads till flush with the top of the thread. Place a large screw driver under the ring gear
so you have firm leverage, keep applying force and give a couple of short sharp taps on the nut. The fly wheel
will normally pop up. I am sure you have done this job already by now. I believe in checking basic problems first before jumps straight to coils, stators and CDIs etc. When a boat
idles fine and starts to faint when you accelerate, I would recommend checking the spring and ball bearing in the fuel line quick couplings, they get hairs, plastic and pieces of rubber in also the fuel bulb can be taken apart and check the one way valves for the same. Then check filter. Then take the cover of the fuel pump
and remove the diagphragm and hold up to the light. Often these are made out of a dicoloured (with age) stiff plastic which wears with dirt and gets tiny tears. Most 2 stroke
fuel pumps work
off the back pressure of the bottom carburettor. Hence work a little when they need little fuel but fail faster. They also make starting sometimes difficult.
After that it gets more difficult and expensive unless you have a spare coil. Often a coil gone will be an intermittent problem but not always. It goes fast, dies a few second and goes again. Stator and charging
coils under the fly wheel
often have an advance/retard arm. Sometimes due to grease drying out these seize. If you have one, you should check it can wiggle freely back and forth and only stopped by the linkage. If you take the linkage off, it should have full movement without resistance.
I am more familiar working on the larger HP 2 strokes than the babies though.