Wingless' 1994 Edey & Duff Custom 11' Rowing / Sailing Dinghy

[wingless]

Here are some images of my recently aquired 1994 Edey & Duff custom 11' rowing / sailing dinghy. This included the Shaw and Tenney spoon oars w/ sewn on leather and the Harding Sails sail. The sail is like new.

This has very nice teak trim and seats.

The floorboards are easy to remove and replace.

There are two Sunbrella storage bags. One for the two-piece mast, boom and sail, another for the centerboard, tiller and rudder. I need to make a cover and an oar bag.

This also has a handy aluminum lawn transportation cart.

This is in great shape. My plan is to clean this up some and use this as the tender for my 380 Searay Sundancer.


Sail Erected



Harding Sails



Carved Transom



Shaw and Tenny Spoon Oars w/ Leathers





Seats, Oars and Storage Bags





Floorboards Removed

[wingless]

The hull and gel coat have been repaired on my 1994 Edey & Duff 11' Columbia dinghy. The teak has been cleaned, brightened, lightly sanded and oiled.

The dinghy looks new now.

The manufacturer covered the teak rub rail w/ this Taylor Made / Perimeter Industries 3/4 Round Gunnel Guard flexible cushion. It has a white woven polyester cover over the heavy duty internal rubber. On my boat it is retained w/ one million screw / washer fasteners. I removed the gunnel guard to permit best access to the teak for care, also to better clean the polyester. The gunnel guard ends are covered w/ leather.

The gelcoat cleaned up very nicely, with the exception of some gouges and blemishes that did not sand out. There is also a crack in the pocket for the tiller. I picked up some material at West Marine last night to fill the crack, the gouges, then match the gelcoat.









The crack and gouge repair was performed using West Marine Marine Rx Epoxy Repair putty. The West Marine Non-Waxed Laminating Gelcoat was rolled on, followed by a finish layer of this West Marine Waxed Non-Laminating Finish Gelcoat.













The entire hull now has multiple layers of new gel coat.

The new gel coat was applied w/ a smooth roller. The result was an orange peel finish. There was also specks in the finish, from when the gel coat kicked. I lightly sanded between each layer to remove the specks, but not to remove the orange peel. Also, there were several layers of finish gel coat used and that material requires sanding between layers. That light sanding (between layers) was done by hand, using Festool Titan 2 6" sanding discs, wet.

There were several types of gel coat used, all was white color, tinted as shown below. The majority was the Evercoat Premium Gel-Kote. I put on over a gallon of this material. I also used the West Marine Finish Gel Coat. I put on two quarts of this material, sanding between layers.

The Blair Tornado II Paint Shaker is a VERY handy product. It is great to freshen-up a can of material that has sat around for a while, or to mix-in color as-shown. This gets my strong recommendation. It mixes round or rectangular: gallons; quarts; pints or aerosols.

This Evercoat Gel Coat Document is the best document I've found w/ information on using gel coat.

Here are my recommendations, to reinforce their information. Ensure sufficient hardener is used. It is better to use too much and be forced to discard material because it has kicked versus not having enough hardener. Ensure the color is spot on between batches. I did not have any luck spraying, so I rolled on the material. The addition of a small amount of acetone into the gel coat, prior to adding hardener, is helpful to get a smooth finish. STOP applying get coat when the material kicks. It is much better to discard material than to attempt to fix problems from using kicked gel coat.

The finish sanding was done using my Festool ETS 150/3 Fine Finish Sander w/ my Festool CT22 HEPA Dust Extractor. The abrasives used were Titan 2, from 100 grit to 3,000 grit, followed by Platin 2, from 500 grit to 4,000 grit.

The end result is an OUTSTANDING shine, w/o even used a speck of compound, polish, or wax yet.


Tint Applied to White Gel Coat


Blair Tornado II Mixing Gel Coat


Multiple Gel Coat Layers Applied - Orange Peel Finish



Gel Coat Sanded Smooth

[wingless]

The dinghy was launched this weekend!!!

The gel coat is completed, the teak has been cleaned, brightened, lightly sanded and oiled. It looks great.

The teak was cleaned w/ the West Marine Teak Cleaner / Brightener Kit. A soft wash mitt was used to minimize the impact on the teak, while still providing the cleaning effect.

A light sanding w/ 400 grit made the teak smoother than a baby's butt.

The teak was oiled w/ Amazon's Golden Teak Oil. The first two coats were a blend w/ 25% Amazon's Teak Prep, per the instructions. The third coat was 100% strength.


Before and After Teak Cleaner


Before and After Teak Brightener


Before and After 400 Grit Sanding


First Coat Oiling


Cleaned


Teak Brightened


Teak Sanded w/ 400 Grit


Teak Oiled


Replacement Gunnel Guard Leather End Cap - Cut to Shape and Softening in Water


Replacement Leather End - Stretched and Formed Over Gunnel Guard

[wingless]

My dinghy has a single pulley for the halliard w/ the mounting bracket riveted to the mast. There does not look to be a good way to add a second, to have an independent way to raise either the boom or the sail.

Here is my dinghy w/ the boom raised by the halliard and the sheet holding it down.

It was secure and out-of-the-way for rowing, not too bad to switch for sailing.

[wingless]

Here is an image showing the varnishing of my oars and boom. I was able to use my oarlocks and leathers to suspend the oars from my step ladder, permitting complete access for varnishing.

[Tayana42]

Beautiful job on a beautiful little boat. Congratulations on a job done right.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[HopCar]

Well done!

[wingless]

My 1994 11½' Edey & Duff Columbia sail / row dinghy did not have a storage cover.
This boat has lots of teak, that I keep oiled, so I want / need a storage cover to protect the boat from the elements.

The first step was to design and create blocks to hold the bows that support the cover. The dinghy has two sets of oarlocks, so I designed blocks w/ ½" pins to fit into the oarlock holes. These blocks have upward-facing slots to hold the fiberglass bows. There are also holes that I use to secure the blocks to the inwale, so these cannot be lost by falling overboard.

The bows are tall to shed water, even during a downpour. The bows are tall enough to permit sitting on the bench seats w/ the cover in-place.

The cover system was designed so that I did not need to drill into the boat, or attach fasteners to the boat.

The cover is attached to the boat w/ 1" polyester webbing and white 1" polyester hook and loop Velcro. The Velcro is on the ends of the webbing and the webbing is looped around the inwale. There is also a strap to the eternal bow eye and to a external stern eye.

The polyester was selected for UV immunity. I also use Gore Tenara thread to be impervious to sunlight.

The cover is very secure.

The cover overhangs the gunnel, tapered-in for a snug fit. There is a second layer of fabric on the bottom 4" of the cover, w/ binding to hold these layers together.

There is a vent on the cover.

The cover has a zipper door to permit entry when the cover is in-place. The zipper door is larger than the cover opening, so the zipper is covered w/ fabric, to shed water.

The boat is currently stored on vee davits on the swim platform of my 2000 Searay 380 Sundancer. The boat is easy to deploy or retrieve.

The only cover fit issue is from the power cord for the Searay. I need to run the power cord diagonally across the top of the dinghy gunnel, so the cover does not hang down properly at those two places.

The cover is made from the same Sunbrella Supreme Captain Navy / Linen that I used when I made the covers for my Searay.
























Here is the interior of the vent.

This also shows my power cord and mooring line resting on the gunnel.