Originally Posted by skipgundlach
As to an earlier poster, the way to get to the underside is to remove the wheel assembly, which has metric hex head machine screws holding it in, I think I recall
; we'll have to take ours to shore to invert it to get to ours, which is now leaking profusely if that arch is below the water
line. Then I'll use some EternaBond, an RV product for fixing aging seams (no leaks), on the INSIDE so that pressure helps rather than hinders the seal.
Quoting myself, as it was a month ago and probably escaped some folks' attention:
We took it to a beach a couple of days ago, for general cleaning
, including the bottom, which had some remnants of critters and grunge from the in-the-water cleaning
I'd done of it.
The wheel wells are held in place with 3 metric hex bolts; they came out with out a fuss, and none were loose.
After cleaning out the hard-shells, including some intact bivalves
, I blew away the remaining water in the transom-end of the well (it was facing slightly down to that point) and then dried it and followed that with an acetone wipe following a capful or so over the nuts used to hold that particular transom hinge in place.
The crack, from the inside (the one which leaked, WAAAY further up in the thread), was very small, which was encouraging. Fortunately for me, the EternaBond roll is wide enough to completely cover, and slightly overlap, that area. So I cut myself a 1/2" strip off the end of the roll, eventually succeeded in peeling off the plastic layer exposing the sticky stuff (it's sticky enough that it doesn't want to let go of the typical clear plastic stuff used on such tapes), and pressed it home with a spatula and my fingers.
side is squishy enough that it's a good gap filler, and by pushing as hard as I did, I could see some slight spooge in the crack when I righted the dinghy. Before that, however, reattachment of the wheel caddy was uneventful.
I laugh at myself to say that I was so focused on the particular job that I forgot to bring the replacement splash guards/trim tabs I'd ordered; you have to remove the wheel caddy to get to the nylock nuts in order to replace them.
So, as it's very straightforward, likely I'll remove them, again, in the water, and make those replacements
Belt and suspenders kind of guy that I am, I also put a strip over the crack on the inside and shoved it home with a small spatula.
In the couple of days since, I have had not a drop of water come through. If it continues to be watertight, since, despite my being able to replace the hull with a free one, the shipping is over $300, and my dinghy repair friend who'd help me with the exchange of every lick of hardware
and the tubes would not be free, I'll just use it as it is. The repair isn't ugly, and as it's the ultimate in flexibility, and therefore not likely leak due to boat
flex, it's not anything I'll worry about.
Stay tuned to this channel (click your notifications segment below if it's not already ticked) for a followup; we're towing it, with a 6HP, all over the Bahamas
for the next couple of months. I expect that if a leak will result, it will do so before we get back. Either way, I'll let you know.