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Old 15-02-2010, 13:58   #1
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Using Weaver Hypalon Adhesive

I have a pinhole leak in my Avon. I've got a patch clamped on now. The thing is I read the instructions for the Weaver 2001 adhesive and in bold print it says:
Do not use near high humidity, in the rain, direct sun or near the water. Reccomended that the humidity level not be above 60%.

I live on a boat in the Pacific Northwest.

This is inflatable boat adhesive, says so on the same instructions. Do people usually haul their inflatable off to their garage or some such to make repairs? Hard to do when your cruising! Is this just something they say to cover their behinds should the patch fail? I'm only repairing a pinhole so not that big of a deal but before using this stuff for a major repair it would be good to know if it will work if I do the work on my deck (my boat is on water since I'm pretty sure there was nothing in the manual about not using it near water).
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Old 16-02-2010, 00:33   #2
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The adhesive you are mentioning is not usually used for general patching but is used to mount pads which will can be under a lot of stress. the stuff in the Avon patch kit is more like contact cement. I had a weaver mount set put on my new hypalon dinghy last year and the supplier insisted that it be done in a dry ventilated workshop. It may be hype, I don't know. However when this is what is holding your new expensive dinghy attached to the mother ship the cost seems justified.
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Old 16-02-2010, 03:53   #3
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Typical instructions for all glue/adhesives and all fabrics insist upon:
Relative humidity must be less than 70%, preferably as low as (but not lower than) 40%.
Temperature 64̊ to 77̊F.
If you have to carry out emergency repairs in poor conditions, especially damp, then try and create a mini-environment around the repair area which can be kept warm and dry for at least the critical two hours of the initial curing.
Allow the patch to cure for at least 12 hours before inflating the tube — longer if you possibly can.
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Old 16-02-2010, 07:59   #4
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So, the answer is to borrow a workshop if you can and build a tent on deck if you can't. Well, I'll see how this patch holds up.
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Old 16-02-2010, 08:36   #5
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The warnings are for the application of the glue. Once set, it is fine to use the patched product in those conditions. Just pick a warm dry day to apply the glue.

Chris
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Old 16-02-2010, 08:40   #6
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Thanks, I did understand that but since I live on a boat I wasn't sure how I was going to "not be near water" when doing the repair. I guess the answer is in finding shop space when you need to do a major repair.
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Old 16-02-2010, 14:03   #7
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G'Day All,
Having faced these requirements with Bostik and Weaver glues, we long ago switched to SC-2000, made by Rema Tip-top. This is an industrial 2-part contact glue,used to assemble ane repair giant rubber conveyor belts, etc. Incredably strong, no humidity requirements, able to stress within an hour of application...lots of good features. Even better, if you store the catalyst in teh fridge (it's a tiny glass bottle), the shelf life of the glue is several years.

Only drawback is that it, unlike the OEM glues, can not be easily disassembled by heating, so that mistakes are awkward to fix!

Here in Australia it is distributed by Beltreco, and I reckon that a google search would turn up the Yank supplier.

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Old 17-02-2010, 05:07   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Cate View Post
... we long ago switched to SC-2000, made by Rema Tip-top. This is an industrial 2-part contact glue,used to assemble ane repair giant rubber conveyor belts, etc. Incredably strong, no humidity requirements, able to stress within an hour of application...
According to the "SC2000 CEMENT BONDING PROCEDURES"

“... General Rubber Lining Environmental Conditions
Before any sandblasting, application of metal primer, adhesives or application of lining material the ambient temperature and that of the substrate must be at least + 50̊ Fahrenheit with a maximum temperature of + 104̊ to +113̊ Fahrenheit.
The Relative Humidity should not exceed 80% during the entire lining procedure.
The substrate temperature must be a minimum of 5 degrees higher than that of the dew point.
Relative humidity, ambient temperature, substrate
temperature and dew point must be recorded prior to start of project and at three hour intervals thereafter...”

http://www.rematiptop.com/technical/...dures-Rev4.pdf
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Old 17-07-2010, 16:39   #9
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Anyone know where in the states to get old AVON A4 valve plugs? Just the plug.

Polymarineshop.com has them for 6 quid but does not ship to the USA !
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Old 18-07-2010, 05:24   #10
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Avon plug black A-4 valve pair $50.50
Avon Inflatable Boats | Avon plug black A-4 valve pair | V00026 from the ShipStore.com ™ on-line catalog.

Plug for older Avons including S100. This is the cap and deflator prong only, not the entire valve. Not a repair kit for the valve interior.
If valve is not working, you need to replace valve with the newer C7 Valve, cap and doubler fabric, which will involve cutting boat and gluing fabric.

For diagrams of Avon Valve types see:

Westport Marina, Avon Inflatable BoatS Valve types, parts, service
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Old 18-07-2010, 05:31   #11
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Typical instructions for all glue/adhesives and all fabrics insist upon:
Relative humidity must be less than 70%, preferably as low as (but not lower than) 40%.
Temperature 64 to 77 deg.F.
If you have to carry out emergency repairs in poor conditions, especially damp, then try and create a mini-environment around the repair area which can be kept warm and dry for at least the critical two hours of the initial curing.
Allow the patch to cure for at least 12 hours before inflating the tube — longer if you possibly can.

See ➥ http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ive-36586.html
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Old 28-09-2010, 12:12   #12
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mixing amounts

What is the ratio for mixing tip top sc2000 in small amounts .Instructions say 4% but kind of hard to judge
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Old 28-09-2010, 13:55   #13
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4% = 25:1
I’d expect that, if you can’t approximate a 25:1 ratio, you can’t properly use SC 2000.
http://www.rema-tiptop.com/ttoe/smar...NT_SC_2000.pdf
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Old 28-09-2010, 15:02   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricosail View Post
What is the ratio for mixing tip top sc2000 in small amounts .Instructions say 4% but kind of hard to judge
G''Day Rico,

FWIW: I asked the same question of one of the vendors for SC-2000 some years ago. His answer was that it was not at all critical. In fact, it will eventually cure without using any catalyst at all... just slower.

So, in practice we have "eyeballed" it, and have never had a problem. And incidentally, while as Gordon said above they do suggest less than 80% RH, we have just gone ahead and used it whenever we needed it and not worried about such trivia. So far we've never had a glue failure.

On the other hand, one professional repairer showed us his trick for dealing with the more sensitive Bostic adhesive in muggy Auckland NZ. He simply warmed the area to be glued with a "hair dryer" heat gun, and kept a stream of warm air flowing over the applied glue while it was reaching the required "tacky" stage. Once it was assembled, he simply left it to cure in ambient conditions. Seemed to work for him.

Hope that this helps, and good luck... it ain't rocket science!

Cheers,

Jim and Ann s/v Insatiable II lying Michaelmas Cay, Qld, Oz
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Old 28-09-2010, 15:37   #15
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I used the Weaver glue to patch the dinghy a couple of months ago--on the beach at Martha's Vinyard. Did the job on a sunny day, and ignored any humidty rules. Reglued the oarlocks, which get quite a bit of stress, and they are staying on quite nicely.
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