Suzuki DT 6 stops like when running out of fuel

[Bob666]

Originally Posted by letoile

I agree with the carb diaphram issues... but the first thing I would check is the new tank. Some of the new EPA tanks do not vent even when the vent is open and creates a vacuum and prevents gas from flowing to the motor. It happened to me with a brand new motor that would not run. I simply loosen the entire cap while using the kicker to get our sailboat in and out of the marina and tighten it when not in use. I also disconnect the hose to the motor when not in use since the tank will not vent and will also build up pressure and flood the motor when the tank gets hot and expands. Simple fix and worked for me.
Boating groups raise concerns about new outboard engine fuel tanks
Good luck!

Hi!

I bought this tank:
Scepter OEM bränsletankar - Bränsletank

I have to go out and disconnect the fuel hose from the engine now!

I had the tank in the car, it got really warm, and it leaked actually.

I have the old cheap tank still, it leaked a bit which is why I bought the new one.

Can experiment with that tomorrow.

Cheers

[Jim-T]

I'll bet if you google dt 6 carb it will direct you to a u-tube video.

[phalo]

Hmm a very interesting thread to revise the mind but have you actually unscrewed the fuel tank lid as Cliveon sensibly suggested. I went through it all 2 years ago with our tender Mariner 4hp and had the same trepidations about carbs not having been inside one for years. So I thoughfully dragged the tender back onto the mariner so nothing would drop in the water and after finding some grains of sand in the bowl it slipped, bounced a full meter laterally and sank in 4 m of marina water. I decided not to blindly search in the murky water or tempt the Bull shark that lived around and waited 2 weeks for a replacement not to be found anywhere in Australia. Three weeks later after having ample time to clean jets it worked beautifully.
So check the tank cap again.

[Bob666]

Hi!

Result of gas tank test:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...29ha3ZHbk9XTW8

Time to remove the carburator. Let's hope it's not the cylinder, gaskets there etc?

When it worked I achieved planing so should be ok compression in the engine.

When I wrote bellows I meant primer bulb.

I am still inclined to think fuel system problem. Will go to length do determine and next troubleshoot the carburator as you suggest.

Cheers

[Adelie]

Make sure the tank is venting so it doesn't start pulling a vacuum as fuel is consumed, the vacuum at the wrong end of the fuel line would prevent fuel flow.

Look for leaks in the fuel line letting air into the line which breaks the vacuum from the motor and prevents fuel flow.

Make sure the connection between the hose and the motor is tight and is not leaking vacuum which again would prevent fuel flow.

This is all the low hanging fruit. After checking these items start worrying about what's going on inside the motor.

[a64pilot]

I'm in the if a 6 Hp gets you on plane, there isn't much wrong with the motor. Compression, crankshaft seats etc.

[Bob666]

Hi!

Changed all hoses back and forth and back to the old tank etc etc. No go!

There is a hissing sound from the carburator when pumping the primer bulb and it does not always accept fuel, I can see the fuel filter not filling up.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...mM0VllGVlRSc1k

Keep pumping for a long time and eventually it begins filling up, once that happens it works all the way to pump, you feel the primer bulb filling and stiffening. So it's either black or white, nothing happens or something does.

Leak in the carburator, or something stuck in there?

Will de mount the carb now

[a64pilot]

Sounds like the float needle valve, a carburetor is like a toilet in the the level of fuel in the bowl is controlled by a float and a valve, pretty simple system, but the valve like all valves is subject to sticking.
Rapping the float bowl with a plastic screwdriver may fix the sticking vale temporarily, bowls are often fragile zinc, so be careful how hard you rap it.

Now is the time to learn to disassemble and clean your carb, check float level etc.

[Bob666]

Hi!

How do you clean the parts once disassembled? Gasoline?

Cheers

[a64pilot]

I go to the auto parts store and buy a gl of carburator cleaner, sometime called carb soak.
It's a gallon can like a paint can and has a basket in to to put the parts in and lower it into the can, Allow the parts to soak for a few hours, Do NOT put any plastic or rubber parts in like O rings or gaskets as they will be ruined if you do.
Water is what neutralizes the cleaner after letting it soak and a good scrub with an old tootbrush and soapy water doesn't hurt.
I also keep a can of spray carburetor cleaner around to use the straw to spray out the small passages.
Try not to use a wire or be careful if you do as you may change the jet size as on some of these little motors, the jet size is tiny.

Now if at anchor and I really don't want to or have a place to put a whole gallon of carburetor cleaner as its good for many uses and for years, I'd go with the spray can of carb cleaner with the straw, but be very careful you don't get that stuff in your eyes.
Usually you can blow out the passages and get by.

I don't think gasoline would do much of anything, or it would flush out when it was running.

Best solution is an ultrasonc cleaner and they aren't that big, but one I have takes 110 VAC and again, where to put it for the other 364 days of the year that you don't need it?


Looks like this
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/ph...07carb0007.JPG

[a64pilot]

Oh if you soak a carburetor overnight, in the morning there won't be anything much left, it will literally turn the zinc to powder, so a couple hours is just right, overnight is bad.

[Bob666]

Hi!

I could use this ultra sound cleaner:
https://www.kjell.com/se/sortiment/h...00-50-w-p40490

Will ordinary water do? They also sell special liquid, but at a price.

I have a compressor also, should I blow some air through parts perhaps?

Cheers

[Lake-Effect]

We have a 1983 Suzuki DT 5 (2 cyl) that runs like a champ. We've had this engine for 9 years now. One spring I removed the carb to see what shape it's in: it was clean as a whistle, with just a film of 2-stroke oil. So now all I do is fire some spray carb cleaner in the air intake while doing my spring test.

Given the symptoms, I would say either fuel pump or float valve.

When it comes to our outboard, we're health nuts: new gas every spring, only premium without ethanol, we add stabilizer and Shell Nautilus 2-stroke oil. This has kept it dependable.

[a64pilot]

If you chose to go the ultrasonic route, I use what in the US is called Mr. Clean, which is a good ordinary water based house hold cleaner.
If environmental issues are important to you, I see an ultrasonic on par with steam cleaning, good results, no bad chemicals.

Course more than likely you can get by with compressed air and an old toothbrush too, once you know where to clean

[Bob666]

Googled float valve, and found:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlez_hdoWYk

It would save me some bucks of buying the ultra sound cleaner that will be very sparsely used, and not something I would stowe aboard for live aboard purposes.

I think he's saying (cannot figure out his accent) to use CRC Carburetor Cleaning spray in the end, not sure.

Suzuki manual says to use Primer Bulb Adhesive when attaching hoses (+ hose clamps of course). Googled, but ambigous results. I need to find a product.

Yeah, I will disconnect the carburetor tonight.