Spare nuts, bolts and screws

[model 10]

Originally Posted by skipmac

Good idea.

No bad idea. The weakest part of the fastner is the threaded portion...

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Guy

No bad idea. The weakest part of the fastner is the threaded portion...

Of course the weakest part of a fastener is the threaded part but all bolts have threaded section, many threaded the entire length to the head so weakness on the threaded section seems to me a moot point. Perhaps a bolt threaded onto a rod is not as strong as a formed head but then one end will be secured with a nut anyway so what's the difference there?

Regardless, for repairs on non critical or low load areas, emergency repairs, temporary jury rigging I think its a great idea. For critical, load bearing a graded bolt might be necessary.

[model 10]

[QUOTE=skipmac;2449508] many threaded the entire length to the head so weakness on the threaded section seems to me a moot point.


Maybe in some construction but in quality work the threaded portion is outside the hole. Threads should also never go all the way the the bolt or screw head either. On the nut end there should always be a washer to spread the load.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Guy

Maybe in some construction but in quality work the threaded portion is outside the hole. Threads should also never go all the way the the bolt or screw head either. On the nut end there should always be a washer to spread the load.

Threads should never go all the way to a bolt or screw head? Sure are a lot of inferior bolts and screws on the market. Seriously, there are applications that require fully threaded fasteners.

Also it just isn't always possible to get a bolt where the threads end perfectly at the end of the hole. And the slight difference in strength might matter used in a sheer load situation but in tension you are putting load on the threaded section anyway.

Not saying that it isn't better to use a bolt with an unthreaded shoulder but if I didn't have one available I wouldn't hesitate to use a fully threaded bolt. If the situation is so critical that the small loss in strength of the threads are important then you should really switch to a larger or higher grade bolt.

Wahers? Doesn't that kind of go without saying.

[Group9]

I have three plastic storage bins (shoebox sized) full of stainless steel screws, bolts, washers, nuts, etc. Sadly, my organizational method is to just stir them around with a screwdriver until I find what I need.

[softdown]

I have more nuts, bolts, screws etc than some hardware stores. Got tired of spending 1/2 day driving to hardware/lumber stores and being asked if I was "in a hurry....they are expected with the next shipment".
Both Amazon and Ebay have a lot of nut and bolt specialists that offer any number of kits and storage bins. Been a long time but Harbor Freight used to, at least, offer sensational deals on a box of SAE Grade 5 nuts and bolts that must weigh about 60 pounds or so. The Metric assortment gave a lot less pounds. Likely mute since I do not recall stainless steel being offered.
Things get more complicated....of course. 316 stainless is needed for immersed fasteners and that can cost a great deal more. There are grades of stainless even better than 316. Their costs tend to be quite exorbitant.

[softdown]

Searches for 316 yielded slim pickings. Marine grade finds a lot more. 304 yields plenty for sure. Stainless steel provides many, many possibilities of course.

One would hope that an advertiser of marine grade bolts would carry bolts with good corrosion resistance. With the general loss of old, respected brand names it all seems a bit risky.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Guy

..............
Maybe in some construction but in quality work the threaded portion is outside the hole. Threads should also never go all the way the the bolt or screw head either. On the nut end there should always be a washer to spread the load.

Agreed with the threaded portion etc but my take on the washers is that if you are only going to use one, it should go under the part that is being turned when torquing it up; normally this is the nut but if the nut can't be turned for whatever reason, then the washer goes under the head of the bolt. The washer protects the part from the rotation of the nut / bolt. The thickness of the washer is chosen so that the nut doesn't bottom out or become thread bound.

Of course I might be wrong...

[Tampabayfireman]

When you sail a 35 yr old boat you become very good friends with the local fastenal dealers. And use the $10 divided parts bins to separate the different sizes

[model 10]

Originally Posted by Wotname

Of course I might be wrong...

Maybe. You need a washer on both ends. You choose a thiner washer so you have at least 1.5 threads showing past the nut or a thicker washer to have no more than 3 threads showing past the nut. You can have up to 3 washers under the nut. There are special washers for studs that are much thicker for the load...

[hellosailor]

Those black and yellow bins look like the Stanley bins that I have found to be much higher than the usual quality. The latches and hinges certainly don't crack off the way the 500-for-$5 kits do.

Buying stainless fasteners at Home Depot is like walking into a video store and asking for the porn tapes. You'll be quietly escorted to a discrete section in the back.(G)

I know, there's lots of stuff in poly bags at ridiculous prices on the shelf. And if you want something like metric nuts or bolts? There's one big flat-file drawer set, with all the parts mixed up in all the compartments, like dogs had been rummaging through a garbage till. I wouldn't bet a plugged nickel on the odds you could actually get 4-5-6-7-8-9-10 mm nuts, and bolts, and get one full set of each. Even without trying to find something like a 10-15-20-25-30...70mm length set in a common size.

Lowes may be a bit better, but if you're going to rummage through the peg racks and bins? In the US that means going to Ace Hardware, where the prices are often 3x higher than they are on the Ace web site. Which, logically, will also ship those same parts to the local store for free pickup. At 1/3 the price of the store inventory.

I'd still buy a complete set from a reputable online supplier like Jamestown. Faster and cheaper, same quality.

[puffcard]

Don't forget taps and handle.

I carry a few plastic tray. I'm also one that whatever I need, I buy twice as much for the job.

Also if it's underwater, don't use the cheap SS from Lowes, use 316.

[Pizzazz]

Large collection of bolts and nuts are not always more helpful as it takes longer to find the right part if at all. Therefore, I believe in throwing out most of the fasteners that have not been used in a while.

Also, note that when working on engines, you have to buy the original bolt and torque it to spec. So, you have to order. If not working on engines, you can usually go up/down a size without too much trouble.

The bottom line is to keep a limited selection of most used items on board and leave the store to manage large inventories.

[SecondBase]

Originally Posted by Guy

I have started passavating hardware myself. Old stuff, new stuff, everything gets a citric acid bath in the sun. I use a pretty strong batch, more is better maybe? I do know that it burns a little and it bubbles so it must be good.

And then run a MAGNET across the pile to remove any ferrous regardless of the manufacturer labeling.

[sailah]

I buy a LOT of bolts/nuts etc and hardware for work. As such I've found some pretty good suppliers of very high quality hardware.

My 2 favorites are McMaster Carr and Bolt Depot.

I will typically buy boxes of 50 or 100 of anything common like 1/4"-20 nuts or M8 nuts in 316 stainless. The price difference isn't enough to worry about vs zinc so I usually always go with 316 unless I need grade 8 for strength. That way I always have extras for the boat.

BUT, McMaster only sells in qty so if you only need 4 of something, that's where Bolt Depot comes in. Now I will admit I live in the same town as these guys so I pick up directly. But they offer almost anything you could want in all flavors and no minimums. I often buy bronze and stainless wood screws here, or if I need a single long bolt etc.

What I also like about them is that they pack everything, even if you buy a single screw, in these really nice ziplock bags with a printed sticker shwoing what it is. So for the boat I will buy 4-10 of almost every size in variety of bolts, nuts and washers. They are all in zip locks and I store them in my hardware bin and it takes up almost no space.

Forget Home Depot or West Marine, the 2 places I mentioned have every qty or size you want for way cheaper and the quality is much better, just depends on how much you need.

www.mcmaster.com

www.boltdepot.com