Porta-bote haters: what's not to like?

[skipgundlach]

Originally Posted by ejlindahl

clip all but this:

On my Genesis I've never had problems with the oft repeated lower transom attaching screw leaking. I wonder if those folks have the thick rubber washers backed up by big stainless steel fender washers for both inside and outside of the boat. The main reason not to get the 12 footer other than the extra few pounds, is if it doesn't fit where you plan to carry it, a real consideration for those who want to store the bote on the deck of a small or medium sailboat. You putting it on a truck rack will not have a problem. You can also get brackets to mount the bote, folded on the side of your RV. This is the reason I still have my 10 footer... for my RV. The company has pics of that on the website.

As shipped, there were only exterior washers; inside and out would not hurt but aren't needed to keep water out.

However, the factory wing nuts have nothing to lock them. You could include lock washers over the fender washer if you didn't want to mess with nylocks as described in our case.

And:

Originally Posted by ejlindahl

For what you are going to use it for I would get the older 12' Genesis. Mainly because it will plane easier, is safer in bigger water, carry more and the Genesis with the separate transom piece will be a little lighter than the newer, integrated transom piece, Alpha 1 model. The 12 footer will also be more stable plus less likely to get water over the bow, you really have to watch that if it gets choppy in bigger water. The Alpha with the integrated transom will save you a few minutes in set up but that is not a big deal considering it will take 15 or 30 minutes to get it off the truck and set up ready to go.

Very curious. Including my custom oarlocks, the older separate transom style went together, ready to row, in 5 minutes flat, and back in the van the same way - 5 minutes after touching the ramp.

Here's the pix:

Pictures: Flying Pig Early Refit + Projects/Finishing_Touches-Readying_To_Splash/Porta-Bote_Maiden_Voyage_and_Sculling_Modifications

If you were adding a motor, particularly if it were already filled with fuel (vs a separate fuel can) it might take another minute or so. Making two more trips for fuel and motor and gear might add a total of 5. However, in my case, it took 3 trips - Bote, Bag and 10' racing sculls. Having the folding transom should take a minute or two off my time with the bolts and nuts required with the separate transom...

My apologies for my photographer; he took scenery rather than re-stow-in-van pix at the end, but the stopwatch read the same - 5 minutes from touch-ramp to close-doors...

YMMV but I found these (that was my second Bote, the one with the marking issues) extremely easy to put together, to the degree that we did it vertically, against the mast, aboard, before dropping it in the water...

L8R

Skip

[mjgill1]

Originally Posted by skipgundlach

YMMV but I found these (that was my second Bote, the one with the marking issues) extremely easy to put together, to the degree that we did it vertically, against the mast, aboard, before dropping it in the water...

Skip

Yep. We assemble ours on deck and use a halyard to lower it into the water. Also tie the main halyard to the engine as a safety measure as it is being mounted to the Bote. We carry the Bote in a couple of Magma SUP mounts that attach to the stanchions. If the weather gets bad, we'll lash it to the side of the cabin top.

[Mike OReilly]

I'd love to play with the new portabote model to see how this folding transom really works. Given the number of complaints I read, I'm happy to stick with my older version, although I do think I'm getting some leaking at the aft seam now. Might see the day when I have to replace this baby. It's going on 15 years now, so I don't think it owes me anything.

Over the years I've lost, and replaced, most of the fasteners. But we still use wingnuts to attach the transom. And I've had to replace the washer gaskets a few times, but that's no biggie.

We tend to keep the bote folded on deck when traveling -- almost never tow it. If we're anchored it will stay put together for weeks or months at a time. The wingnuts can come lose, but I just make it a practice to check them every once in a while.

We (dis)assemble the bote on our foredeck. With two of us working it takes about 10-15 minutes (leisurely pace). If I'm doing it alone it alone it takes about double.

[BlackHeron]

I open the boat on deck, hinge the interlocking transom leaves together and just toss the bote overboard after securing the painter. It takes a minute or two working alone to go from stowed to in the water.

I secure the bote alongside with lines fore amd aft. Then I load the seats into the bote with the it hip-tied like this and assemble everything in the water. It is MUCH easier this way. Then I load the oars, outboard, fuel jug and the tool box with supplies.

I do the reverse before hosting it back on deck. Much lighter and easier to lift just the bare hull and transom. I added extra grommets at the stern and midships to tie lines to.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RlA...w?usp=drivesdk

[mjgill1]

Originally Posted by BlackHeron

I added extra grommets at the stern and midships to tie lines to.

We added grommets at the stern. That and a drain plug installed on the starboard side all the way aft. Also painted the seats off white to keep things a little cooler.

[BlackHeron]

Does anyone know if epoxy will stick to whatever plastic the seats are made of? Ours are going to need some repairs soon as they are cracking and getting brittle from the UV after only one year. Should have painted them or kiwi-grip beforehand.

[ejlindahl]

In post #179 I mistakenly wrote:

I was able to then tap some threads thru the pop rivet and afix a small piece stainless steel angle iron to those two pop rivets. To this piece of stainless steel I attached a ~1/4" thick, ~1/2" x 1" bit of hard plastic

The angle iron was aluminum not stainless. I wrote it from memory and when I went to take the picture saw that it was aluminum.

[skipgundlach]

Originally Posted by Mike OReilly

clip...

I'm happy to stick with my older version, although I do think I'm getting some leaking at the aft seam now. Might see the day when I have to replace this baby. It's going on 15 years now, so I don't think it owes me anything.

clip...

Hi, Mike,

Again citing the two FB pages where everyone knows the botes inside out, I know that a bit of the butyl tape - EternaBond - RV's use to seal their roofs works a treat on boats in general, and is a specific for solving the very common bladder rip at the keel. You can get it in 2" x 4' chunks without breaking the bank.

I sold my bote before needing it, but I also cured a pesky transom issue on our (also pretty flexible) Walker Bay Genesis with a few inches of it.

[ejlindahl]

OK, certainly not 30 minutes to assemble. But from truck bed, carting down to the water all the bote stuff plus motor, gas can, life jackets, lunch, gear bag, etc.... to rowing away can be 15 minutes. Often its a bit fiddly to get the holes lined up to insert the keeper pins for the seats. My bote is fairly new, lives folded up and its often cool up here in Puget Sound so its pretty stiff to unfold and get that first seat in, even with the factory hold open board. I don't remember if my first move is to get the first seat installed or unfold the transom piece. Frankly I only assemble and disassemble once or twice a season when I go cruising. Last time was last September so I'm a bit foggy on the timing, it just seems to take a while. I did discover that once you have the hold open board in place its often easier just to stand in the bote to put the rest together.

Another thing I want to mention is the leaky transom bolts on the Genesis models. Like I said in post #178 I don't have that problem. I ran across some blog where some cruiser kids left the bote in the water overnight with the 5 hp motor and it sunk. They blamed it on the leaky bolts. Well the bolts could have backed out bobbing up and down thousands of times all night long, but if the smaller botes are left with a ~60 lbs outboard cantilevered over the transom plus a 30 lbs gas can in the stern they are asking for trouble. All it takes is a wave in the middle of the night big enough to ship some water over the transom and the process will start to swamp the boat. I never leave a small dink with motor on in the water overnight. Not only to avoid a mishap but also to eliminate any banging on the hull while sleeping.

Regarding epoxy on the seats, aren't they polyethylene? Not much sticks to that. Interesting that some one painted theirs. I wonder how its holding up.

[skipgundlach]

If you're on the ground or pavement, here's an assembly tip.

Use your cheater board (or transom if you have a new one) to 'start' it open.

Then, with the seats in the approximately right position, stand in the bote.

Feet athwart on the outboard seams, it's a piece of cake to get the seats mounted.

To put it away, I'd do the transom first, then the seats out; the bote, from having been open like that won't try to eat you; step out, fold the sides in and you're off.

[Mike OReilly]

Originally Posted by skipgundlach

Again citing the two FB pages where everyone knows the botes inside out, I know that a bit of the butyl tape - EternaBond - RV's use to seal their roofs works a treat on boats in general, and is a specific for solving the very common bladder rip at the keel. You can get it in 2" x 4' chunks without breaking the bank.

Thanks for this. That stuff looks great. I'll give it a try when (if?) I ever get back to the boat. This pandemic is sure putting a cramp in my cruising lifestyle .

I don't actually know where the leak is. I think it's the aft seam, but I haven't narrowed it down yet. It's quite small at this point -- just a nuisance really. But it would be nice to seal it up.

I should note this only started happening two seasons ago after our our bote ended up breaking free from the mothership during a Newfoundland gale. Ended up on the rocks, getting bashed around for about 12 hours. Few dinghies would have survived at all, so still pretty pleased.

[hpeer]

Mike,

That Eternabond, if you trace it down, seems to be just butyle tale. They sell it in different thicknesses.

I’ve been fooling with it on a pretty good leak. Though the hull was through last year but here we are.

What I find best is to take the transom out, clean the area super well, especially on the inside. Then really flatten it out and get it flat and stick a bit on from the inside. Then the outside is simple.

Once done it works well, until you fold it. Some times it will reseal over time, sometimes not. Marine growth here in the hot tropics WILL seal the hole. Should sell that **** as sealant! But it’s not that big a deal and our old PB is still chugging.

I just hauled it onto the beach and scrubbed the bottom with a stiff brush and sand. Gets her going fast again. For a bit. Need to do this every 2-3 weeks. It lives in the water with the OB on.

[ejlindahl]

Re: Sealing leaks I've had success on my aluminum boat and plumbing using a product called something like Captain Tully's. Its very fluid and will seep in everywhere. I don't know how it would work on a flexy portabote.

[zemurray]

Originally Posted by mjgill1

We carry the Bote in a couple of Magma SUP mounts that attach to the stanchions. If the weather gets bad, we'll lash it to the side of the cabin top.

inside or outside the lifelines? have a pic of your method SUP mount method ?

Thanks

[Mike OReilly]

Originally Posted by zemurray

inside or outside the lifelines? have a pic of your method SUP mount method ?

Mine is carried on the side deck,snug against my cabin. My decks are pretty wide so this doesn't block passage.

I don't lash the bote to the stanchions for fear of a boarding wave. But many do it this way.