Here's a picture of my RAM installed after I rebuilt it earlier this year. As you can see the hoses are connected to elbows like BigAl has. This s*cks and long term best you can do is replace those elbows with
service valves as shown in the other picture. The hoses connect to them but it has a valve and the hose barb for servicing. To do that, you need a small piece of transparent vinyl hose that fits between the two valves on the
service hose barbs. Put it on, then open the valves and oil can bypass the cylinder through the hose. Start circulating oil which moves air from the service hose plus what is in the lines towards the reservoir where it is vented and replaced by oil.
if no bubbles were seen nor heard for a while, you can close the service valves and move the
rudder back and forth using hydraulic. Then open the service valves again and circulate through the bypass. This should remove the last air that was left in the ram the first time. Last is removing the service hose and emptying it into the spare oil container.
When the ram is completely empty, like after my
rebuild, you fill the reservoir, then pressurize it, then open a service valve (or loosen the hose connector when you're without service valves like me) and let the air escape. You probably need to refill and re-pressurize the reservoir a couple of times.
Like someone wrote before, it's best to take the RAM off while keeping the hoses on and move it up to the highest point. In my case I put some manual switches on my AP hydraulic pumps so I can run them either direction by flipping a switch and circulate so easy that all air is gone within a minute.
The Hynautic instructions about bleeding the ram while extended in one direction, then repeating the other way around: this works of-course but the ram must be fully extended so you must take it off the
rudder quadrant because that limits maximum ram movement. With the service bypass valves & hose you don't need all that