Foredeck size is part of the reason I ended up with a old two tonner, the
mast is well aft and she has a huge J, big enough to easily carry a 12 foot rigid dinghy with space to spare.
I am cool with the dinghy being half on and half off the cabintop. With luck it helps take care of any sheer in the dinghy as the high bow sits down on the foredeck when the dink is inverted.
It also gives room for the forehatch on a foredeck to open with the dink lashed down.
Ideally the dinghy will also sit there ok upright for short trips. It tends to be more bulky this way, but it is very convenient, and its a hansy place to chuck wet fenders and
mooring ropes.
I dont put any dorades, handrails or hatches anywhere near my dinghy spot. A nice flat cabintop is the most versitile.
On one boat we had special chocks to fit the dinghy and it was lashed down with
stainless steel turnbuckles. Very secure. Other times I use webbing. I have seen the dinghy take a hell oc a pasting and survive. I disagree with those that say a dinghy on the foredeck is more vunerable than one on the
cabin. The sort of event that rips them off is a rollover or knockdown. And the cabin is probably more exposed to this. Especially since these days in that sort of event you are more likely to be sitting on a
drogue, with the biggest waves clouting you from aft of the beam.
As far as access forward goes by and large it can be an asset in many cases, providing something secure to stop you falling to the lee side, and lean on.
The best dink from this stowage point of view is a sharpie/dory shape with lots of flare and a narrow bottom. When upside down the flared sides are conveniently angled out of the way and make a nice backrest on good days. The flat bottom sits nicely upright and provides a nice flat standing or sitting area. It even makes it easy to lash a few
solar panel on top of the upturned dinghy. The sheer should be reasonably flat, and unfortunately those nicely shaped transom tops with a lot of curve up make it rock when stowed, so the transom is best cut a booring curve to match the camber of the cabin.
I suppose the perfect setup would have a removable section of stern like an
outboard well that could let the dinghy slot around the mast. And I have seen a dinghy designed so with the transom removed it fits perfectly over a narrow cabin top, snug to the deck. But this needs an exceptionally wide dinghy, and a narrow cabin to
work on most modern
boats
A rib with long extensions aft can have the tubes extend past the mast with the transom pulled in close to the mast. That usually gains you a foot ot so. And the tubes can be deflated on log trips for even more room.
Staysails can be cut to just clear the upturned dinghy, giving a good endplate effect when going to windward. When down they can be lashed into a long sausage and tied down onto the bottom of the dinghy or lashed down either side. If the dinghy is upright the sail may need a short tackline to clear the bow of the dink. But it's then very easy to drop the sail into the dinghy. And loosely stow at your leisure.
Its handy to be able to slide the stern of the upright dinghy slightly offcentre so you can leave a small
outboard on the stern for short runs or when at
anchor.
For shallow
water stuff it is always nice to have the dinghy with outboard on upright on deck and ready to go, with my lightweight
fortress and a warp in it and the
halyard on it
bridle attached and run back to a primary
cockpit winch. That way if I ran aground it was only a few seconds
work to get the whole thing over the side. Also handy for shorelines.
It is much easier to get a dinghy onto the foredeck than behind the mast. No boom in the way, and
spinnaker poles and halyards are perfect for thejob. I think the biggest failing of modern production yachts is that they just don't factor all this stuff in, and often tgey ruin what would have been a nice foredeck for a dinghy destroyed by dorades or babystays.