Freezer Compressor not Firing up

[UFO]

It is a standalone 12V Freezer, which was switched off around 6 months ago - At that point it was working fine. Just turned it on this morning and I can hear the fan running but it is not cooling - Left it a few hours and still warm inside.


Any basics I should be looking out for?

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by UFO

It is a standalone 12V Freezer, which was switched off around 6 months ago - At that point it was working fine. Just turned it on this morning and I can hear the fan running but it is not cooling - Left it a few hours and still warm inside.


Any basics I should be looking out for?

Send an email to Peter at Ozefridge in Victoria, he may well be able to assist.

[UFO]

Thanks - Just checked their website and they have a page about it:


https://www.ozefridge.com/general-technical

[Richard Kollmann]

Originally Posted by UFO

It is a standalone 12V Freezer, which was switched off around 6 months ago - At that point it was working fine. Just turned it on this morning and I can hear the fan running but it is not cooling - Left it a few hours and still warm inside.


Any basics I should be looking out for?

Each brand and model of these refrigerator or freezers will have different trouble shooting steps needed to locate and isolate trouble. If you want to save time and money better identify your freezer unit and confirming that compressor is running or not. After unit was left on for 30 minutes or more and no cooling was compressor warm? Amperage draw is another way to confirm compressor is running.

[Davidhoy]

Originally Posted by UFO

It is a standalone 12V Freezer, which was switched off around 6 months ago - At that point it was working fine. Just turned it on this morning and I can hear the fan running but it is not cooling - Left it a few hours and still warm inside.


Any basics I should be looking out for?

.

Check your battery voltage. If the voltage is low, it may be sufficient to run the fan, but not to start the compressor. I know this from personal experience

[Dougtiff]

Yep, check the voltage AT the compressor, i have done this,i.e., low voltage, not working.

[Richard Kollmann]

Originally Posted by Dougtiff

Yep, check the voltage AT the compressor, i have done this,i.e., low voltage, not working.

If you have a 12/24 volt compressor manufactured after 1995 you will waste a lot of time and money playing with a volt meter especially when you are not aware of its manufacture or type of upgraded electronics. These 12 volt compressors no longer run on 12 volt motor principals. You may only get help from that units manufacturer or from someone having experience with that unit's design configuration. If you want help on this forum provide information on that unit or at least pictures of compressor and its electronic control components. You have already found technical info on another manufactures web site and it was of no value in solving your problem. Generic trouble solving is old school when it comes to new smart electrical tech knowledge.

[Uncle Bob]

UFO, I am curious, did you manage to solve the freezer problem or does it still persist?
I haven't seen any update yet Richard has stated that "You have already found technical info on another manufactures web site and it was of no value in solving your problem." Have I missed a post?
Cheers

[UFO]

Originally Posted by Uncle Bob

UFO, I am curious, did you manage to solve the freezer problem or does it still persist?
I haven't seen any update yet Richard has stated that "You have already found technical info on another manufactures web site and it was of no value in solving your problem." Have I missed a post?
Cheers

Not solved yet - Just had a chance to have a quick look at it today - Will head back tomorrow for a more in-depth look.

[UFO]

Voltage - Turned off is 13.71V - When The compressor first cranks it drops to 12.85V and then comes up to 13.18V

The compressor has a slight vibration to it (by putting my hand on it) and after around 30 mins is warm to touch but not hot - Am I correct in assuming the compressor has started?


Attached are some pics

[Bill O]

Thanks for the pics and it looks like you have a Danfoss/SECOP BD35 compressor.
Since the compressor has vibration and is warm, it seems like the compressor is running. Can you measure amp draw when you turn the system on? The draw on the compressor should be ~3-5 amps.
If the power is ON and connected correctly and the compressor still does not run, check to make sure the thermostat is turned on to a temperature setting low enough to get the compressor running (On a mechanical thermostat turn the knob clock wise).
IF NO response you can bypass the thermostat by placing a jumper wire between terminals T and C (T = thermostat C= Common). With Terminals T and C connected, the compressor should start and run continuously when the power supply is ON. If this works, then you need to replace your thermostat.

See if this works then report back before you try to trouble shoot the electronic module (usually reliable). Do you have any flashing leds in your system for trouble shooting codes?

[Richard Kollmann]

Compressor warm indicates compressor is running and control module is good.

Knowing current amperage may pinpoint problem, amperage below 3 amps would indicate loss of refrigerant.

Your unit has a troubleshooting LED I assume it is not flashing a code signal?

Amperage too high with no cooling would indicate dirty boat power wiring to from battery to module effecting pulse phasing of compressor power. This normally indicates a bad ground connection some where between battery and module. Simple test for bad ground is to run a jumper wire from battery ground and module minus terminal.

[Richard Kollmann]

Originally Posted by Richard Kollmann

Compressor warm indicates compressor is running and control module is good.

Knowing current amperage may pinpoint problem, amperage below 3 amps would indicate loss of refrigerant.

Your unit has a troubleshooting LED I assume it is not flashing a code signal?

Amperage too high with no cooling would indicate dirty boat power wiring to from battery to module effecting pulse phasing of compressor power. This normally indicates a bad ground connection some where between battery and module. Simple test for bad ground is to run a jumper wire from battery ground and module minus terminal.

A second look at pictures shows the electrical drawing applies to a AC powered refrigerator and not your DC unit.

The pictures show a plug in speed change circuit board of unknown design. The white two thermostat wires appear to be connected to C terminal and 2000 minimum speed rpm terminals or speed wire terminal 2500 Rpm. If speed is set at 2000 rpm normal amperage draw is around 3 amps, at 2500 rpm amperage would be 4+ amps.

I do not think the plug in board is at fault but you can pull it off the module and remove the thermostat white wires from board and connect them direct to module C and T terminals. Now compressor will run at only 2000 rpm with temperature still controlled by thermostat..

[UFO]

Amps start at around 4 and drop to around 2.8. If i bypass the little cotroller and attach the white wire directly to C with a jumper to T the draw is 1.5 - same if i simply use only a wire between c and t

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by UFO

Amps start at around 4 and drop to around 2.8. If i bypass the little cotroller and attach the white wire directly to C with a jumper to T the draw is 1.5 - same if i simply use only a wire between c and t

I can only say, make a call to Pete at Ozefridge, he is VERY knowledgeable and easy to talk to, happy to help and will steer you in the right direction, he assisted me with a problem that a "refrigeration professional" claimed was terminal, pete's suggestion cost me the grand sum of $18.00 or thereabouts.