Dinghy glue repair at transom

[dneve]

MY PVC Zodiac's floor came lose because of the heat here in Florida and several regluings with two part PVC glue never lasted. Best to try 5200.

[AiniA]

Originally Posted by Valmika

Would this work for Hypolan also or what could you use.

i have used 5200 with success on Hypalon but have not used it on PVC.

[Mike Banks]

If the rubber to rubber joint is coming adrift, the glue is packing it in.

If it were I, I would not be trying to patch the loose bit. I would be taking apart the whole transom to tubes joint, and dismantling it entirely.

Then I would clean and abrade with a wire brush those parts that join the tube to the transom, with MEK and using Bostik 1669 adhesive for PVC and SC 2000 for Hypalon, re-affix the rubber joining pieces to the tubes. The tubes are best joined when inflated, and they too must be cleaned and given a light sanding.

Then the transom edges must be cleaned and given a light coat of adhesive which must be allowed to set. this to all surfaces to be joined including the rubber connections. Then a second coat, on all surfaces, and push the transom firmly into place. Tap all the surfaces in contact with a rubber mallet or block of wood. Once there leave it for 24 hours to stick properly.

OR--you could just do the loose bits, sell it, and buy a new one. Better still--get a Polycraft or its American equivalent.

[Dougiestyle]

Looks like a choice between Stabond 2 part (contact cement?) or G flex epoxy?
Thanks for the reply's and photos. will post the repair.

[Dougiestyle]

I think i am going to use G Flex 655, 2 part epoxy. I will contact them tomorrow and see if it will bond with PVC. Anybody use this stuff?

[Mike Banks]

lotsa luck with epoxy. It does not stick well to PVC.

[Souzag818]

Originally Posted by newhaul

For my zodiac bombard I used the proper weaver 2 part pvc adhesive .
Has held up for 2 years so far and showing no signs of failing .
I recommend the correct 2 part adhesive for the pvc to pvc gluing

This. Not liquid nails

[Souzag818]

I've used 5200 to temporarily repair a 1/2" slice caused by dragging my hypalon dinghy on the beach with out any problems, but I don't know how well it would hold up with PVC or high stress areas like the transom. Did a permanent repair patch with Weaver two part adhesive, as well as re-attaching part of the rubrail and it's been problem free for 3 years.

[MikeFergie]

I would use a Rema TIpTop product called SC2000. This truly glues rubber hypolon etc without coming loose

[Chuck Hawley]

Knowing the type of fabric and using the correct glue is critical. PVC glues, I believe, slightly "melt" the surface to create a very good bond, while the two part glues (Bostik) use a different bonding method with Hypalon fabrics. The challenge is to get something that bonds to both fabric AND wood, in the case of the transom.

Zodiac had a giant issue around 1995, primarily with Boat U.S., about floor and transom failures on their glued boats. I think this might have led to a class-action suit, but I can't remember for certain. This led to the PVC inlays in the routed areas of the transom, to provide a "bondable" area on the transom where the fabric could be attached using one of the two PVC boat construction methods: either hot air (seams) or RF welding (accessories). Either of these can be used to create what amounts to permanent bonding.

What I don't know is where 5200 fits in the inflatable boat toolkit. It's obviously tenacious (and a mess to use), and virtually unremovable after its seven day cure. It seems to be that this would be compatible with both the plywood and the boat fabric, and presuming the surfaces were cleaned and after the requisite cure time, transom would be permanently bonded.

Chuck

[ZULU40]

Originally Posted by Chuck Hawley

Knowing the type of fabric and using the correct glue is critical. PVC glues, I believe, slightly "melt" the surface to create a very good bond, while the two part glues (Bostik) use a different bonding method with Hypalon fabrics. The challenge is to get something that bonds to both fabric AND wood, in the case of the transom.

Zodiac had a giant issue around 1995, primarily with Boat U.S., about floor and transom failures on their glued boats. I think this might have led to a class-action suit, but I can't remember for certain. This led to the PVC inlays in the routed areas of the transom, to provide a "bondable" area on the transom where the fabric could be attached using one of the two PVC boat construction methods: either hot air (seams) or RF welding (accessories). Either of these can be used to create what amounts to permanent bonding.

What I don't know is where 5200 fits in the inflatable boat toolkit. It's obviously tenacious (and a mess to use), and virtually unremovable after its seven day cure. It seems to be that this would be compatible with both the plywood and the boat fabric, and presuming the surfaces were cleaned and after the requisite cure time, transom would be permanently bonded.

Chuck

Thats exactly my understanding
Ive read reports 2 yrs in where its worked, so I went with that
with the exception that I flow coated the transom

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by MikeFergie

I would use a Rema TIpTop product called SC2000. This truly glues rubber hypolon etc without coming loose

SC2000 (and SC4000) are wonderful adhesives for Hypalon. Unfortunately it does not bond well to PVC, and isn't appropriate for this repair.

Jim

[KD8NPB]

Originally Posted by Valmika

Would this work for Hypolan also or what could you use.

Kinda...

Best choice; two part adhesive for elastomer (hypalon/csm/cr) inflatable boats.

Polychloroprene adhesive with isocyanate reactant mixed at 5%.

[Jon Hacking]

Originally Posted by Dougiestyle

I think i am going to use G Flex 655, 2 part epoxy. I will contact them tomorrow and see if it will bond with PVC. Anybody use this stuff?

Doug, I've had the transom come off of our PVC Zodiac. Took it to Zodiac, they did the factory repair, & it fell off again. Scrubbed off all the old (2-part contact type) glue, roughed up the surfaces, & painted normal epoxy resin on both sides. Surface tension makes it bead up, so I sanded the PVC through the wet epoxy until it flowed out smooth. Brought the pieces together, put some polyethylene over them (which epoxy won't stick to) & then tied things up to hold the bits together. I also did the repair with the dinghy slightly deflated, then pumped it up to tighten up my ropes & such. Never had another problem (sold it with the boat 3 years later, in 1989).

With our Hypalon AB, we again did our repairs in epoxy. Abrade the surface, paint the epoxy on both surfaces, sand them until the epoxy flows out smoothly, put them together, cover in polyethylene, & clamp, usually with some cushioning (carpet scraps, etc) over the poly but under the clamping board, to absorb any differences in height, so the pressure is evenly applied over the entire surface. Never had a problem.

If I get a pin-hole puncture, I mix a tiny bit of epoxy, coat a toothpick with it, & work the toothpick into the hole. When the epoxy cures, knock the rest of the toothpick off. I'll sometimes put a patch over the toothpick, but it's the toothpick that's keeping the air in, not the patch.

Thin epoxy is already flexible. Cleaning the old crud off is the difficult bit. Doubt you need the G Flex, but I don't know that product. If it's as strong as West, go for it. And good luck!

[liquidice]

I agree with 2 part epoxy. I repaired a “free” zodiac-for-west marine pvc inflatable using the techniques described here: www.allinflatables.com/support/pvc.html
It’s worked flawlessly to reattach the floor and seams.