Chineese or cheap forced air disel heaters vs expencive alternatives

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Nope, there is a spec'd min / max not to be messed with, needs to be in range for the **right** backpressure.

Use the one included, ask for specs, or use the spec from whomever they copied, Planar?

john back pressure has nothing to do with it . They are forced draft open burnpot systems.

[john61ct]

Maybe crossed wires with Propex HS2211?

If so sorry, please ignore

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Maybe crossed wires with Propex HS2211?

If so sorry, please ignore

entirely possible and personally I would not recommend the Propex HS2211
Due to it using propane as its fuel.

[CaptTom]

Originally Posted by newhaul

john back pressure has nothing to do with it . They are forced draft open burnpot systems.

Right. Mine came with a plastic hose for the combustion air intake. I think the idea is to quiet things down a little. I plan to remove mine, since the unit is behind some cabinetry anyway, and I suspect it's restricting the draft and contributing to overheating on "high."

If I had it to do again, I'd plan to minimize the exhaust hose run even if it meant longer hoses for the heated air discharge.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by CaptTom

Right. Mine came with a plastic hose for the combustion air intake. I think the idea is to quiet things down a little. I plan to remove mine, since the unit is behind some cabinetry anyway, and I suspect it's restricting the draft and contributing to overheating on "high."

If I had it to do again, I'd plan to minimize the exhaust hose run even if it meant longer hoses for the heated air discharge.

tom we don't actually need to use the intake air hose ( for the most part there are always exceptions.)
overheating ? Ok when was last cleaning ? Is there any restriction on the air runs ( cold or hot) ? How long is the exhaust line?

[CaptTom]

Originally Posted by newhaul

overheating ? Ok when was last cleaning ? Is there any restriction on the air runs ( cold or hot) ? How long is the exhaust line?

It's overheated (shut down with an error code) on anything much above half-way on the heat setting since it was first installed. The air intake and outlet are within a couple of feet of the unit, with only one 90 degree elbow each. The exhaust hose probably runs 7-8 feet, with some ups and downs along the way.

I suspect that length of exhaust hose, although within spec IIRC, is probably the problem. I'm planning to remove the combustion air intake hose and see if there's any improvement.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by CaptTom

It's overheated (shut down with an error code) on anything much above half-way on the heat setting since it was first installed. The air intake and outlet are within a couple of feet of the unit, with only one 90 degree elbow each. The exhaust hose probably runs 7-8 feet, with some ups and downs along the way.

I suspect that length of exhaust hose, although within spec IIRC, is probably the problem. I'm planning to remove the combustion air intake hose and see if there's any improvement.

your combustion exhaust is to long especially if it is lagged the full distance .
An improvement would be to just spot wrap and insert it into a 2 inch outer pipe . Allows for the exhaust to bleed off excess exhaust temperature.

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by newhaul

john back pressure has nothing to do with it . They are forced draft open burnpot systems.

OK, but the right hose length **is** apparently important?

What is the underlying reason for that if I was wrong about it being back pressure?

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by john61ct

OK, but the right hose length **is** apparently important?

What is the underlying reason for that if I was wrong about it being back pressure?

Its kinda wierd but it has to do with temperature of the exhaust if its to hot it will cause an overheat to cold and you get condensate that will eventually cause a blockage and overheat as well. So its not so much the length as the lay . The issue with it being longer usually means that at some point the exhaust does an upward turn . Hence my recommendation for a condensate drain being installed close to the unit.

[CaptTom]

Any chance that a small fan on the combustion air intake side would help?

[warrior 90]

Originally Posted by CaptTom

Any chance that a small fan on the combustion air intake side would help?

Go to.....

https://www.eberspaecher-na.com/file...10-29-2018.pdf

Page 61 >DUCTING RATING GUIDE

Hope it helps. You might is also orientation for other issues

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by CaptTom

Any chance that a small fan on the combustion air intake side would help?

unfortunately tom no that won't do any good it will actually cause issues.
Adding a fan on the intake would cause an imbalance and combustion issues with the fuel to air ratios in the combustion chamber.

[CaptTom]

All right, a fan on the combustion side is out.

The ducts are short and only use 2 el's and no significant obstructions. Using the numbers in the manual, I'd be maybe a "2." I don't think that's the problem.

Next step is to remove the combustion air intake hose (no real reason for it.)

Failing that, I'm thinking of moving the whole thing to another location to make the exhaust shorter, although that will make the ducting longer.

[navado]

When I started the thread I was thinking to install the heater in a way to reuse old exhaust and fuel lines from previously present and later removed generator. It had approximately 2.5 meters of the exhaust line ,which is still intact. With adapting fittings of cause.
Is that a bad idea?

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by navado

When I started the thread I was thinking to install the heater in a way to reuse old exhaust and fuel lines from previously present and later removed generator. It had approximately 2.5 meters of the exhaust line ,which is still intact. With adapting fittings of cause.
Is that a bad idea?

The fuel line would work just great
2.5 m is a long exhaust for a smaller air unit are we Talking1inch exhaust or 2 inch?