Anyone with the new Suzuki DF15A or DF20A Outboard?

[Cyrus747]

Originally Posted by colemj

Out of gear, the engine will not smoothly throttle up past just above idle. When you do open the throttle up out of gear, it chugs and spits. This is because outboards are not supposed to be revved out of gear. On most, there is a lockout on the throttle that prevents it from opening more than just a little bit when out of gear. On the Suzuki, there is no lockout and the computer simply manages that for you - and that is why it is refusing to throttle up and complaining. This is normal.

Don't know what the issue is when in gear. Perhaps the dinghy is at full displacement mode and the engine is chugging trying to bring it up on plane? Are you on plane at half throttle?

The exhaust exits through the prop hub, so it should not be out of the water at all. There is a "pee hole" at the bottom of the casing, that is only an indicator of cooling water flow. Its only purpose is to alert you that there is something wrong with the cooling system if you don't see your engine "peeing" (of course, the most common problem with "no pee" is a small piece of sand or stuff caught in the "pee hole" - and not a real cooling problem).

This "pee hole" should be above water, because if it is not, your engine is below water. How far above is not important as long as your engine is not swamping.

Trim should be 90* when on plane. Off plane, it will be trimmed inward.

How fast are you moving in gear at idle? I don't know what a trolling sock is, but our dinghy moves pretty slow at idle speed. Certainly much less than we typically troll on our sailboat (5-8kts).

Mark

ya it chugged and spit while in gear...didn't seem to want to clear up at all. When I went full out it was fine...also fine at idle. my motor does seem to fit a bit low. The water pumping out only has a couple inches of space to the top of the water. Sorry I must be thinking of something else other than the exhaust...there is round hole right in the middle of the back of the leg that is about halfway up...sorry thought it was exhaust related.

[Therapy]

Originally Posted by Cyrus747

ya it chugged and spit while in gear...didn't seem to want to clear up at all. When I went full out it was fine...also fine at idle. my motor does seem to fit a bit low. The water pumping out only has a couple inches of space to the top of the water. Sorry I must be thinking of something else other than the exhaust...there is round hole right in the middle of the back of the leg that is about halfway up...sorry thought it was exhaust related.

All the motors I know of have an exhaust outlet in the lower end also. This allows the exhaust a way out at idle when there is not enough pressure to push it through the prop.
I don't know about the new Suz though.
I don't know how long your shaft is either but it sounds like your transom is too low. Newer outboards are not really low like the old Evinrudes and Johnsons.
Not running smoothly in the mid range seems to me to be a different sort of problem. Since there is no carb and jets and all that old stuff it is most probably the soft/firm - ware.
IMO of course.
And if like you said about the dealer not knowing anything about the motor I wish you a "good luck".

It should look sorta like this.

Why can't I put a ****8ng picture in here?
I try copying the image, image url and the link. NOTHING uploads.

Anyway here is a page that has pics. There is one that shows the motor on a transom. Yours should look similar.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Suzu...w=1085&bih=626

[Cyrus747]

yes the dealer didn't know jack...hope the mechanics know better. Suzuki just are not popular in this neck of the woods. Will complete the break in and see what happens with the engine issue. Question regarding the motor oil change...do the little o rings need to be replaced too or just the filter? I would ask my dealer but....

[Therapy]

Originally Posted by Cyrus747

yes the dealer didn't know jack...hope the mechanics know better. Suzuki just are not popular in this neck of the woods. Will complete the break in and see what happens with the engine issue. Question regarding the motor oil change...do the little o rings need to be replaced too or just the filter? I would ask my dealer but....

Maybe your airline will let you take it along on your next hop............to a place with someone that knows the motor.

[Jordan]

Is it possible to disable the spring auto-idle on the tiller control? I hate that if I shift my grip it changes speed.

[ranger58sb]

You can tighten it. See manual.


-Chris

[Jordan]

Do'h. Its the big knob underneath the tiller.

Not sure how I missed that.

Thanks!!

[SailAllDay]

Hey all, trying to figure out what dinghy and motor to get.

I've got a Dufour 44 with a large foredeck which can fit a 10'4" (Achilles 315LX) with walk around room. That dinghy is rated for max 15 HP and motor weight of 110lbs.

I'm cruising down south to the Sea of Cortez in the 2016 HaHa. I was thinking of getting the 20HP Suzuki because it's the lightest for the HP rating and the price is pretty good.

I plan on doing tons of freediving/spearfishing and want the ability to use my dinghy to rescue the mothership if ever needed.

Is a 20 HP suzuki a good choice for my plans? How hard is it to find parts for Suzuki OB's in Mexico and beyond?

[ranger58sb]

I've been happy with out 15-hp version -- same hardware as the 20. RIB moves like a scalded cat. Haven't put many hours on it yet, though... so comments from others (Mark) probably more useful.

Here in the States, liability law can be concerning, so I chose to not exceed our RIB's max HP rating.

-Chris

[colemj]

I would get the 20 over the 15. The only single difference between the two is different programming in the control module. Essentially, the fuel injection timing and rpm are software controlled differently.

We have just reached our 200hr mark with no issues.

Parts are a red herring, IMO. Carry a spare water pump kit, spark plug, zincs, propeller and other common replacement/maintenance things. Order in advance as you use them. They are generally only needed every 2-3 years, so you would have time to pick up replacements.

Everything else would be a catastrophic type of failure and you would just Fedex parts in if they are ever needed.

Mechanically, these engines are simpler than normal carburated engines, with less to "wear" or foul in normal operation over time.

Be sure to install an external fuel filter/water separator and you won't need to worry about fixing it.

Mark

[a64pilot]

Mark,
How do you know hours? Does the oil change LED continue to function, or is that just for the first oil change for break-in?

[Hoosiersailor]

I have a 2012 Evinrude E-TEC 25hp on a small skiff. I agree that in many ways the new engines are simpler than carbureted older engines. However as simple as my 2 stroke E-TEC is (mechanically far simpler than a 4 stroke) it is a terribly modern computer controlled extremely complex engine. It is all canbus ECM controlled with various electrical sensors and pumps that can and do fail.

With all that said, it is a cool little engine. I can hook up a laptop and tell everything about the history of the engine. How much time it spent at any RPM, operating temperature, etc. You can control the amount of fuel in each cylinder independently and test each sensor. All of the fault codes it has ever logged and when or if it ever overheated.

I believe the newer Suzuki's are very similar. So you might want to research the software incase you ever need to check on it.

[JayH]

Originally Posted by colemj

I would get the 20 over the 15. The only single difference between the two is different programming in the control module. Essentially, the fuel injection timing and rpm are software controlled differently.

We have just reached our 200hr mark with no issues.

Parts are a red herring, IMO. Carry a spare water pump kit, spark plug, zincs, propeller and other common replacement/maintenance things. Order in advance as you use them. They are generally only needed every 2-3 years, so you would have time to pick up replacements.

Everything else would be a catastrophic type of failure and you would just Fedex parts in if they are ever needed.

Mechanically, these engines are simpler than normal carburated engines, with less to "wear" or foul in normal operation over time.

Be sure to install an external fuel filter/water separator and you won't need to worry about fixing it.

Mark

This is helpful. I'm close to pulling the trigger on a 30 for use in the Bahamas and Carib, but have been hung up on the "parts" issue.

[a64pilot]

You know, believe it or not but the newer two stroke's sold in the US anyway are exceedingly complex trying to pass emissions, they have to be. Sort of like the cars of the late 70's were.
I may be wrong, but this little Zuk I think sensor wise isn't all that complex. There will be I think very little fixing anything fuel system, ignition and computer wise, I think it will be parts replacement.
I have a four stroke fuel injected dirt bike, a Husqvarna, and it is a real horse, much stronger than it's carburated cousins and runs perfectly.
But it has picked up a problem, it runs beautifully for a few minutes and shuts down, it can be re-started but problem persists. It acts like an ignition coil heating up, but unlike a bad coil it can be re-started. I'm afraid its an ECU, and they aren't cheap, and there is no fixing one of those, you replace them.
I believe any new generation, modern motor will be like that, they will run beautifully for a long time, with essentially no maintenance other than oil changes, then it suddenly won't, and there will be no shade tree temporary fixes, you will need a new part.

[Hoosiersailor]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

You know, believe it or not but the newer two stroke's sold in the US anyway are exceedingly complex trying to pass emissions, they have to be. Sort of like the cars of the late 70's were.
I may be wrong, but this little Zuk I think sensor wise isn't all that complex. There will be I think very little fixing anything fuel system, ignition and computer wise, I think it will be parts replacement.
I have a four stroke fuel injected dirt bike, a Husqvarna, and it is a real horse, much stronger than it's carburated cousins and runs perfectly.
But it has picked up a problem, it runs beautifully for a few minutes and shuts down, it can be re-started but problem persists. It acts like an ignition coil heating up, but unlike a bad coil it can be re-started. I'm afraid its an ECU, and they aren't cheap, and there is no fixing one of those, you replace them.
I believe any new generation, modern motor will be like that, they will run beautifully for a long time, with essentially no maintenance other than oil changes, then it suddenly won't, and there will be no shade tree temporary fixes, you will need a new part.

I am not all that experienced with Husqvarna, but I had an almost identical problem with the high pressure fuel pump in my ETEC. One of the biggest problems is ethanol and the way it attracts moisture. My engine would run great then stumble and lose power. It would immediately restart, run a while and then do the same thing. Ended up being some corrosion in the pump. Something to check anyway...