Air Fill Valve in Caribe RIB Replacement

[Quadrille in JB]

I searched the forum but couldn't find anything on this so....
I have a 2008 Caribe 9' RIB that is in great shape as it has been stored inside our garage when we're not cruising. We're only part timers now as we are semi-retired.
When I removed the air hose after filling one of the air bladders today the orange plastic piece and spring came out of the valve. It appears this is used to depress the valve to deflate the RIB but without it there is nothing to prevent the "valve stem" from going back into the valve and possibly getting lost.
It doesn't look like anything is broken but it won't go back together either.

Has anyone replaced the fill valve on a RIB?

It's working now but I don't want to leave it like this as it could fail at a most inopportune time.
thanks in advance,

[KD8NPB]

It takes a special wrench to mate with the valve to apply the proper torque. It's easiest to remove a valve while the boat is fully inflated.

[ausaviator]

One of my valves had a leak on the outside of the entire valve assembly and I was stressing about it, but it was quite simple fix. Don't mess around, it's piss easy to fix.

You'll just need to buy either the new parts for the internals of the valve or a new new valve assembly. Should be overly expensive.

Like this: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1x-doubl...4AAOSwmNlZZc24

You just deflate the compartment, hold the nut on the back of the valve assembly and un-do the valve with the special spanner. If you don't have the spanner you can probably put something pointy in there to hold it whilst you un-do the nut at the rear.

If you remove the whole valve / carry thru assembly you may need to buy some polycarbonate sealant (from a hardware store) when you re-assemble it. Just smear it around the fabric before you re-assemble.

If you are worried about being able to buy parts, just buy a whole new assembly and make sure it's the right size. They literally clamp onto the fabric using a slight cone shape to get a seal.

I got my advice from YouTube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKLSAbDgnKs

[KD8NPB]

Originally Posted by ausaviator

If you remove the whole valve / carry thru assembly you may need to buy some polycarbonate sealant (from a hardware store) when you re-assemble it. Just smear it around the fabric before you re-assemble.

This step is unnecessary and may destroy the material.

[ausaviator]

No, it will not destroy the material, particularly on a PVC constructed dinghy.

Use a filler, not a glue, it's a bit like toothpaste when it comes out and it doesn't dry to be super hard, it remains slightly soft. You are more likely to get a perfect seal using this filler. My tender will stay fully inflated indefinitely.

I wouldn't use silicone like in the video as it is very difficult to clean off if required later.

[Northbound44]

There’s two possible valve, the one with red button was used in there older model and need a six teeth wrench to be removed. The new design have a yellow button and a eight teeth wrench. You can build your own tool with a one inch pvc pipe since it fit inside the groove. Both valves threads are not compatible together. You can find these at Defenders Marine store.

[Quadrille in JB]

Thanks for the advice. I talked to Inflatable Boat Pro in Pompano Beach, Fl and they promptly shipped the valve and wrench for under $60.
Very friendly and knowledgeable tech explained how to change the valve, no sealant needed.

[KD8NPB]

Originally Posted by ausaviator

No, it will not destroy the material, particularly on a PVC constructed dinghy.

Use a filler, not a glue, it's a bit like toothpaste when it comes out and it doesn't dry to be super hard, it remains slightly soft. You are more likely to get a perfect seal using this filler. My tender will stay fully inflated indefinitely.

I wouldn't use silicone like in the video as it is very difficult to clean off if required later.

Wrong chemical combinations may lead to a stripping action of the plasticizers in the PVC, which can cause the coating to harden and crack.

[Quadrille in JB]

My RIB is hypolon. What kind of filler are you talking about? Brand name?
It’s pretty amazing. With an eight hp Yamaha 2-stroke it will run 30+ Knots with the two of us. It’s not real quick getting on a plane but once it gets up on the step it hauls a....😎

[KD8NPB]

Originally Posted by Quadrille in JB

My RIB is hypolon. What kind of filler are you talking about? Brand name?
It’s pretty amazing. With an eight hp Yamaha 2-stroke it will run 30+ Knots with the two of us. It’s not real quick getting on a plane but once it gets up on the step it hauls a....😎

Hypalon is a DuPont trademark, no longer in manufacture for boats.

Caribe uses Pennel & Flipo Orca CSM/CR material which in your boats case is probably their Orca 828. It is susceptible to damage via prolonged exposed to hydrocarbons/oils, but incidental exposure is mostly harmless.

[ausaviator]

Oops, I just realised that I said to use a Polycarbonate filler when I should have said Polyurethane. There are 3 main types of Poly to use on PVC boats, polyurethane filler, polyurethane glue and polyurethane 2-pak glue.

[Quadrille in JB]

Thanks for the information.
The RIB is hanging on the davits but we'll bring it home after next week's cruise.

Joe of Riverside Marina in Ft. Pierce just completed the new Radar/Davit Arch.
He did a great job and his price was about 50% of other estimates.

[Quadrille in JB]

Richard,
Since you appear to be the expert, could I ask you a question?
When I replace the valve on my Caribe RIzb should I use any sealant under the valve? And what type of sealant would you recommend if any?
Thank you for your valuable input.
Bill

[KD8NPB]

Originally Posted by Quadrille in JB

Richard,
Since you appear to be the expert, could I ask you a question?
When I replace the valve on my Caribe RIzb should I use any sealant under the valve? And what type of sealant would you recommend if any?
Thank you for your valuable input.
Bill

Valves seal mechanically only. No adhesives/sealants are required or recommended.

For internal seam mastic for CSM/CR, I prefer Sika 221 / 291.