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peteatbeach · 14-01-2017, 08:08

We have water leaks when dinghy left in a few hours. Close inspection of tube to Hull joint shows so areas with hypalon edge loose. I'm guessing this is a possible source for water intrusion.

What recommendations for adhesive to use?

Pete

ur2slo · 14-01-2017, 09:03

Uhhh Google it?

Toulene to clean, cement to ???GLUE? what a concept..............

Manufacturer will provide way better info...(as you can see

)

UNCIVILIZED · 14-01-2017, 09:55

You might peruse/search the WEST System site. As I think there's some info over there. Also, has anyone tried 5200? And, yeah, talk to various dinghy manufacturers. Ditto on firms that specialize in their repair; of both dinghys, & life rafts. As they do such work in order to keep Cheerios on the table. So...

Matt Johnson · 14-01-2017, 10:36

5200 sticks to both freshly cleaned aluminum and hypalon extremely well. This would be the direction I'd go.

Matt

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**JPA Cate** · 14-01-2017, 14:47

But it takes a whole week for 5200 to dry/cure, or did when we last used it.

I would use SC2000 for it, made by Rewa Tip Top, used largely for huge conveyer belts, and in the food industry as well. Keep the catalyst in the fridge, it keeps lots longer. Don't know where to source it in the Caribbean. Sorry, maybe someone there will pipe up with a local source, otherwise internet explore and ship in. Might be quicker overall to use the 5200, as stated above, it will bond well to both, given proper surface prep, but you'll have to figure out how long you can be without the use of it.

Ann

UNCIVILIZED · 14-01-2017, 19:18

5200 Fast Cure may be worth looking into. Depends on the application of course. But it cures much, much quicker. Enough so that it's one of the recommended fixes when needing to do quick sail repairs. Though of course it's permanent, so use it wisely

And my earlier epoxy reference was to some of the flexible types, if that wasn't clear or obvious.

Edit: Thinking on such a fix, what's the plan with regards to aluminum prep? As unless done well, you won't get a great bond to it.
I've used vinegar (acetic acid) on occassion in lieu of something stronger, prior to alodyne or a self etching primer, with decent results. But only when applying paints, & coatings. Not for structural repairs or bonding.

Also, will the patch cover the entirety of both the tube, & the hull? As I'd think that trying to re-glue the interface between the two would be difficult from the point of having good access to the inside of the joint between them. Perhaps a patch which overlays both? Preferably one that would avoid creating a stress riser, as commonly happens at a patch's edges when you try & patch old blue jeans.
Thoughts?

reed1v · 15-01-2017, 12:41

Contact the MFG of the dinghy. Do not just use some two part system that may melt through the rubber. Worse is to expose it to solvents that may not only melt the rubber but start a fire( happened on our dock). Getting instructions from an internet site not the wisest move.

ur2slo · 15-01-2017, 12:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by reed1v

Worse is to expose it to solvents that may not only melt the rubber but start a fire( happened on our dock). Getting instructions from an internet site not the wisest move.

Stupidity should be painful huh?

Probably used a match to dry the rubber cement before the solvent was dry, just like a good ole bike tube?

Nasty black smoke, you only do that once when your a kid, scared the heck outta me !

But the Boy Scout in me said," Hmmm, put it out"? lol

reed1v · 15-01-2017, 14:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by ur2slo

Stupidity should be painful huh?

Probably used a match to dry the rubber cement before the solvent was dry, just like a good ole bike tube?

Nasty black smoke, you only do that once when your a kid, scared the heck outta me !

But the Boy Scout in me said," Hmmm, put it out"? lol

Its mostly just plain ignorance, not so much stupidity.

**JPA Cate** · 15-01-2017, 18:17

For the Aluminum, we wipe with toluol, preferably, acetone otherwise. The SC2000 will set up enough to inflate softly, not hard, in about an hour, and the overall speed of use is really good.

Uncivilzed, what is the cure time for the 5200 fast cure?

Ann

CarlF · 15-01-2017, 18:43

I used West G-flex for a very similiar aluminium to hypalon repair. Roughen both hypalon and aluminium a bit with sandpaper then clean with a good solvent (I use Acetone as the stronger stuff is too scary). G-flex works on both hypalon and aluminium

WEST SYSTEM | Plastic Boat Repair - D-ring pads and G/flex Epoxy

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/...SeamsGflex.pdf

cpca2000 · 15-01-2017, 21:30

In my opinion 5200 does not work. I would use a 2 part glue, I use the word "glue" as I am not sure the base. You should be able to by that from most yacht chandlers, Budget Marine, West Marine etc.

1. Key both surfaces well
2. Wipe down with Acetone
3. Mix glue, apply to both side
4. Use a heat gun or hairdryer to cure glue so that its 100% dry
5. Add another coat, layer of glue also let it cure.
6. Stick sides together and rub vigorously, use a piece or wood to really press together using the heat gun or hairdryer at the same time.
7. Wait 24 hours inflate and enjoy... hopefully

I cant stress enough about getting the right glue I have been down this road a couple of time as well as worked in a Rhib manufacturing factory getting the right 2 PART GLUE is critical. You need a chemical bond as well as a mechanical bond. Good luck.

Matt Johnson · 15-01-2017, 21:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by CarlF

I used West G-flex for a very similiar aluminium to hypalon repair. Roughen both hypalon and aluminium a bit with sandpaper then clean with a good solvent (I use Acetone as the stronger stuff is too scary). G-flex works on both hypalon and aluminium

WEST SYSTEM | Plastic Boat Repair - D-ring pads and G/flex Epoxy

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/...SeamsGflex.pdf

G-flex is awesome stuff and should work great for this too. The standard 2-part hypalon glue works well when putting a hypalon patch on a tube, maybe even to fiberglass, but it didn't bond well to an aluminum bracket on our old rib's transom. Maybe others have had better luck.

The reason I suggested 5200 (fast cure sets in just a few hours) is that it's available everywhere and bonds to both materials great. Have you tried an aluminum bond with this stuff? I can link to aluminum boats where the entire interior is pretty much held to the hull with 5200 (not saying this is the right way to do it).

Matt

**JPA Cate** · 15-01-2017, 23:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by funjohnson

G-flex is awesome stuff and should work great for this too. The standard 2-part hypalon glue works well when putting a hypalon patch on a tube, maybe even to fiberglass, but it didn't bond well to an aluminum bracket on our old rib's transom. Maybe others have had better luck.

The reason I suggested 5200 (fast cure sets in just a few hours) is that it's available everywhere and bonds to both materials great. Have you tried an aluminum bond with this stuff? I can link to aluminum boats where the entire interior is pretty much held to the hull with 5200 (not saying this is the right way to do it).

Matt

Thanks for that about the 5200 fast cure curing in a "few" hours. Way better than 7 days. Uncivilized, stand down, I have an adequate answer, given the difficult of getting 3M products where we are.

Ann