What jib?

[theglo]

I have sailed my boat from Florida to the Dominican Republic and believe my 120 Genoa was too big. I spent most of my sail reefed or overpowered. The winds were generally 15 to 20 knots, all upwind.

I am back home for 2 days later this week and have a full compliment of smaller jibs in storage. I’m not sure exactly what size they are but know they are smaller and are likely what a racing sailboat would carry.

Is there a particular size folks would recommend to carry as a headsail, smaller than a 120, to have better cruising comfort and less racing performance?

I appreciate your help. I know the actual sizes of my other sails will help but I only have access to the storage for a few hours and thought I’d ask the general question first.

Thanks!!

[Jim Cate]

For getting upwind in those AWS ranges a nice flat blade jib (~90-100%, full hoist) works well on most boats. That's what I would look for in your place.

Jim

[theglo]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

For getting upwind in those AWS ranges a nice flat blade jib (~90-100%, full hoist) works well on most boats. That's what I would look for in your place.

Jim

Thanks Jim!

[Don C L]

Yeah even in lighter air, 10-15kts, my working jib (100), does a better job for pointing and speed upwind.

[Joli]

Easting in the Caribbean can be rough. The breezes will build as the season progresses. If you have a #3 and #4 (100% and a 75%) bring them both.

[Apollo19.5]

Jim is on the money. Small working blade in that 90-100% range is a very flexible sail and quite surprising how well it can perform up wind in lighter airs. It is only really off the wind where it can be found wanting in lighter breeze, but there are other options for more grunt if needed there.

[donradcliffe]

Just make sure they will fit your roller furler, if you have one.

[Joli]

Originally Posted by Apollo19.5

Jim is on the money. Small working blade in that 90-100% range is a very flexible sail and quite surprising how well it can perform up wind in lighter airs. It is only really off the wind where it can be found wanting in lighter breeze, but there are other options for more grunt if needed there.

In season, lighter air in the Caribbean doesn't often happen. Christmas winds can be mid 20's for weeks. Upwind breeze over the deck is often low to mid thirties with a short period 6~8' wave.

You can go East but you're gonna feel it.

[Searles]

Down here, the no3 a full blade as said by Jim is the sail of choice ,and start to reef the mai to keep balance , or go to a cutter rig by far the dest for cruising ,.⛵️⚓️

[boatman61]

100% and a furling symmetrical that's easily dropped for light wind sailing.

[boatman61]

That should read Asymmetrical...

[GILow]

One more vote for 100% plus an asym. (But a cutter is even better. [emoji6])

[Gary Mc]

Also, remember that if your main and headsail are stretched out, and you are not able to flattened them enough, it will seem like you sails are too big.

I would take a good look at the condition of the smaller headsails when picking one, not just the size.
Good Luck

[wingssail]

Looking at Sail Area to Displacement and Displacement to Length for a Sigma 41 (nice boat, by the way) I would have agree with roughly 100% jib.

But there are a few things to consider:

1. will the sail you take back fit on your furler? Often blade jibs (100% #3 jibs) are full hoist and may not fit the furler, (too long between the drum and to top shackle). You need to measure if you're not sure.
2. quite often 100% #3 blade jibs have battens which will not work on your furler, That will be a big disappointment when you try to furl it, Choose one without battens
3. As someone mentioned the luff tape must be correct, Measure the luff tape size (the diameter of the luff rope) on your existing sail and make sure any sail you are going to use has the same size luff tape
4. Finally, the foot. Often a racing blade jib will have a deck sweeping foot which will be at risk if waves come aboard at the bow.

I'm bringing this up because if your boat has a bunch of sails it was probably raced, and doubtful it was using a roller furler. Some of those left over sails will not be suitable for the roller furler if that was added after racing was no longer part of the boat's program. However if they are all cut for the furler, then all is well.

All of the problems I mentioned can be fixed by a sailmaker, however if you have a smaller jib, say 85% which is labeled #4 it will be shorter hoist and higher clew and probably not battens or very short battens, making any modifications simpler. maybe it would need a luff tape change or maybe nothing at all.

We sail 90% of the time with a 85% #4 jib, once the wind is over 11 knots true it is fine.

[Panope]

Sorry for the thread drift.......

Perhaps one of you with more "performance" type sailing experience than I do can answer a question that I have.

For the first time, I have been using an 80%, high aspect ratio, high clew, Yankee (alone, without staysail, love it) and have noticed that it's sheet loads are much LESS than the sheet loads of a low aspect ratio, low clew jib of the SAME AREA.

Question:

What is causing the yankee to have lower sheet loads? Is it the high aspect ratio? Or high clew? Or no mainsail overlap? Or?

I ask because I might soon have a permanent headsail made (the current sail is a second hand, proof of concept), and I might make some adjustments.

Thanks in advance

Steve