is a really good thing, but you can make the tack line fast anywhere ahead of the forestay. Right? This is going to be tough on my boat because there is little room between the forestay and the teak
step of my Swedish style split pulpit. Maybe I need to improvise some kind of sprit. I guess I could lash it down through the bow roller. Maybe get a piece of windsurfer mast or something. Anyone do something like this?
It's nice but not necessary. I have a wooden sprit anyways with my bow roller but it wasn't designed for the upward vector of a spin tacked at the end so I made a bobstay. Was a fair amount of work
designing it, laser cutting stainless. I'm well past my naval architecture days but I don't think a windsurfer mast has a chance to survive. You'd need something going down to cutwater to help with the loads and your boat is going to load it up. Also the loads are lateral as well and can be significant in reaches as the wind
I don't think it's worth the effort for you now. Just tack down with snatch block to something secure. If the luff is a bit short that's a good thing as you can get the sail up higher and away from grabby bits.
3. Tackline needs to be adjustable, so I think how to rig it. Maybe I'll use my staysail sheet for this. It's a single
sheet since staysail is self-tacking. It's run to the cockpit
through a jammer to an electric winch
You can pretty much use anything. I have a piece of 5mm Dyneema with a trigger shackle. I also have an aluminum
marlin spike I machined stationed at the pulpit with a lanyard to blow the trigger if needed but I've never had to do this. Having it to a winch would be great because you can easily adjust tension by luffing it.
3. I'm going to need lighter sheets. Despite the miles of cordage I have on board, I don't think I have anything suitable. I guess I will need 12mm or maybe even 10mm double braid dyneema for this. Or maybe 12mm double braid polyester? But I think lightness will be really key -- probably 10mm dyneema is the right cordage for sheets. This ain't gonna be cheap
It can be cheap. I use 3/16" dyneema (5mm) but my boat is 11.3m. I have approx 25-30 dyneema with a spliced loop at the end of each sheet. These attach to a Y bridle
at the clew with a snap shackle, although I'm thinking about getting rid of shackle.
Then I spliced the Dyneema to regular StaSet yacht braid where it comes through the blocks and winch. During normal conditions, the dyneema and and maybe a bit of braid are the only things hanging overboard
. In light airs it makes a big difference in not collapsing the sail. Have flown to 20+ kts on a beam reach and never had an issue. Clearly you'd probably want to step up the sizes. But that was really cheap to make and took a couple hours max.
Some people will take Dyneema core line and strip off the sheath. I bought 35m hank of dyneema on ebay for $50.
4. I'll need turning blocks at the quarters for the sheets. I guess unlike a normal headsail, these sheets will never be led along the deck
-- they will always be coming from across the rail, right? I guess I could just strop some snatch blocks to my aft mooring
Yeah I have padeyes I installed with backing places on the very aft quarters. My cleats weren't in ideal location for leads so I had to fit them. But if your cleats are, perfect. Just dyneema loops and you're done. I added some shock cord up to the lifelines
so they didn't bang around on my varnish
5. How and when do you use the pole with an assy? What is the right size for the pole? Spin poles are normally limited to the length of the J dimension, by racing rules, but for an assy? Is longer desirable?
I don't so no comment.
6. I guess turtle and snuffer are both highly desirable, right?
For sure. Turtle bags are really nice for deploying. Mine came with spin. Snuffer socks are also excellent esp for short hands or future cruising. They really allow you to get control of the sail if things get out of hand. Blow the trigger shackle, let it flag out and then snuff it. They do add a bit to your hoist height so make sure you've accounted for this in your luff length. They also bunch up a bit at the top but it's not really a big deal. When I take down, I'll blow the tack, let it flag, snuff it and then lower the tube down to turtle bag. I also will do this on gybes as it's safer and I'm usually shorthanded.
I've flown mine solo but it's a lot of work
and it burned me once offshore
at night which was my own fault.
6. Sizing -- the luff of the assy should be less than the forestay length, I guess. Much less? What are the size constraints on either end?
The snuffer will add to the length. Guessing mine adds 2 feet? If I max out hoist, the tack on mine is about 1-2' off the sprit. In reality I never have luff that tight so the tack line is longer.
Give yourself some margin, it's better to have it too short than too long.