A few thoughts about the last flurry of posts:
- Donít give up the forward cockpit!! Iím personally not a fan of forward cockpits, but Iíve spoken to a couple of crews that have them and they love them. For reefing and working at the mast
they are priceless. In gentler conditions they have you right in the middle of the action, so you can easily see what youíre doing as youíre adjusting and trimming. East comms when working with the anchor
or a mooring
. The downsides are wet in stronger winds, lots of line guides needed to get everything there, and poorer visibility of the mainsail
and of the rear corners for docking
(both had a rear bulkhead wheel and engine
controls for docking). Neither had an interior
sail control table, but both had the mainsheet led inside and often used the interior helm
station for watch keeping and manoeuvring in shitty weather
and others already have a solution for bad line angles caused by big banks of clutches: crossover blocks https://www.harken.com.au/en/shop/cr...ossover-block/
. A bunch of these in front of your winches and youíll take care of all the off-angle leads.
- I havenít seen a plan diagram of your mast base, forward cockpit
, nearby decks, and front part of the salon
. That would really help. Also, Chris White cats have been forward cockpit
boats for a long time - there must be heaps of photos of them that should help you with the layout design. Hereís a 55: https://au.yachtworld.com/yacht/2003...ic-55-8405957/
- Almost every line on your boat will need to be adjusted using a winch, thatís just a fact on a 50í cat. Very few lines can be hand adjusted under load without a winch (on our boat, only the running backstay pullback lines and the lazy jacks are not used with winches). Not only do you need the power
to bring in, you also need to let out under control.
- Daggerboards are mostly fully up, but upwind and reaching you will be adjusting. If theyíre easy up then youíll need power
to put them down, or vice versa. You probably have two depth
settings: lower speeds maximum depth
and higher speeds medium deep: adjusting under load takes power. As well, you want to adjust them centrally and not have to go out to the edges of your hulls.
- Mainsail sheet should be 2:1 or at most 3:1 as you need to be able to throw off the sheet in a hurry. Ours is 2:1 and led to both sides. When sailing we lead both sheets
to their respective winch and cleat them in the self-tailer, and leave the clutch
open. We often lead the lazy sheet around the wrong way after the self tailer wrap so a pull of the lazy sheet releases the sheet from the self tailer and lets it run free (via the turns on the winch, which we always limit to two).
- With two winches on either side of our cockpit we are often freeing a winch of one line for another line, then once thatís done putting the previous line back on the winch. I really canít see how youíll do with fewer than at least two mast winches and two sheet winches. With lots of crossover blocks you should design so as to be able to use the mast winches for sheets
as well. On our boat we canít use our mast winches for anything else so they sit idle a lot; you should be able to be more efficient with their use.
If possible, take your time, think it through, create mock ups, donít build anything until youíre satisfied - the design of your sail and rig and deck controls will determine the usability of your boat forever forward. I think I can appreciate how done with this you are at this point of your build, and I wish I was closer so that I could give you hug.