Synthetic standing rigging on a small boat

[Davidasailor]

Different scale but I changed my Dyer Dhow sailing dinghy to SK-78 for a lot of the same reasons you describe, especially the ease of handling. Once I learned to accommodate the initial construction creep it worked very well. Brief description at https://forums.sailboatowners.com/th...8/post-1707624

[wyb2]

Originally Posted by kayakerChuck

I used Amsteel and spliced a low friction ring to each end of each stay. The upper LFR's replaced the tangs on my mast, with suitable spacers & such. The lower LFR got lashed with small dyneema (1/8"??) to a shackle, which attached to the chainplates. Simple, cheap, easy to adjust, and more than strong enough for my little 22'. Obviously, adjust the sizes to your loads

Occasionally I need to adjust the tension. It only takes me a few minutes.

So on the upper LFR, you just passed a bolt through the center straight to the mast? I was thinking of keeping my existing tangs and doing everything downstream of them, but still thinking it through.

[wyb2]

Originally Posted by Davidasailor

Different scale but I changed my Dyer Dhow sailing dinghy to SK-78 for a lot of the same reasons you describe, especially the ease of handling. Once I learned to accommodate the initial construction creep it worked very well. Brief description at https://forums.sailboatowners.com/th...8/post-1707624

That thread was helpful, thanks. The discussion on splicing reminds me that I will need to brush up on that before I tackle this in full.

[kayakerChuck]

Originally Posted by wyb2

So on the upper LFR, you just passed a bolt through the center straight to the mast? I was thinking of keeping my existing tangs and doing everything downstream of them, but still thinking it through.

Exactly. I removed the tangs and used a longer bolt through the LFR's and the existing hole in the mast. I think I had to machine a simple bushing to take up a bit of space between the bolt & the ID of the LFR.

[Benz]

Originally Posted by wyb2

Nice. Did you rig the smaller boat with all off the shelf hardware, or did you have to buy any specialty fittings?

All I bought was closed SS thimbles: nothing special or expensive.

[wyb2]

Thanks to all that replied, this thread has made up my mind. Pretty much no chance that I’m going to replace with new stainless.

I probably won’t be keeping on top of this thread as much, but happy to hear from anyone else that wants to chime in, I will read it.

[Nunami]

Originally Posted by Benz

All I bought was closed SS thimbles: nothing special or expensive.

How did you attach it to the mast?

[Benz]

Originally Posted by Nunami

How did you attach it to the mast?

Where the mast had tangs, I just used small shackles, but most of the shrouds have a large spliced eye that goes over the mast and rests on a bolster. So, soft eye aloft, thimble alow.

[Boulter]

I have a couple of supplemental questions.

Do the Loos tension gages work the same on dyneema? Or perhaps they work but with a different calibration?

The pre stretched dyneema is considerably stiffer than the regular dyneema. Is it more difficult to work when putting a loop in the end?

I have a Corbin 39 with likely 40 year old rigging. It has a mixture of Sta-Loc (?) and Norsman (? I think I have the names right from memory) fittings. I understand one of these companies went bankrupt, so the simple solution of getting new cones and SS wire seems off the table.

I would likely retain turnbuckles for tensioning because don't see why lashings would be preferred. As long as putting loops in the ends of pre stretched dyneema isn't a bear of a task, going synthetic seems more DIY and probably lower cost than sorting this out in stainless.

Cheers

Jonathan

[Benz]

Originally Posted by Boulter

I have a couple of supplemental questions.

Do the Loos tension gages work the same on dyneema? Or perhaps they work but with a different calibration?

The pre stretched dyneema is considerably stiffer than the regular dyneema. Is it more difficult to work when putting a loop in the end?

I have a Corbin 39 with likely 40 year old rigging. It has a mixture of Sta-Loc (?) and Norsman (? I think I have the names right from memory) fittings. I understand one of these companies went bankrupt, so the simple solution of getting new cones and SS wire seems off the table.

I would likely retain turnbuckles for tensioning because don't see why lashings would be preferred. As long as putting loops in the ends of pre stretched dyneema isn't a bear of a task, going synthetic seems more DIY and probably lower cost than sorting this out in stainless.

Cheers

Jonathan

I believe replacement cones are still available for Sta-lock and Norseman, if you decide to stay with them.

Pre-stretched Dyneema is only marginally more difficult to splice than the other sort; it just depends on your level of handiness.
The Loos gauge needs to be calibrated differently for Dyneema. You'll have to use a load cell to calibrate one, or just guess the tension. I've never used a gauge, I just tune by feel, but I don't tune a lot of racing boats.
Bear in mind that if you use Dyneema, you'll still need some sort of thimble to attach it to your turnbuckles, and factor that into the cost.

[Boulter]

Thanks for the responses.

Jonathan