Single Braid Dyneema To Halyard Shackle?

[Delancey]

Cow hitch a locked Brummel splice?

I've got some hand-me-down double braid with a dyneema core. Strip six feet of the cover off the shackle end or go ahead and strip it all the way off down to the turning block at the base of the mast when the sail is raised?

Cheers

[UNCIVILIZED]

Unless you're racing, leave the cover on, for increased chafe protection. And when I'm in practice, splicing wise, I even leave it on where the splice is. In addition to painting the high wear areas with Maxi Jacket II, or RP25.

The cover is especially nice to have in areas such as the section of the halyard on the sheaves when the sail's reefed (main). Or when you're flying a sail which doesn't go to full hoist in the foil (jib).

If not that, then using a Luggage Tag splice with a Cow Hitch works fine. Odds are you won't wear one out anytime soon.

[Delancey]

I'm worried about bulk at the sheave if I do a double braid splice. For the size line I have the core alone is way stronger (almost twice) than I need.

Hand-me-downs from a Cookson 50 canting keel.

Or could maybe not splice, leave the cover on and halyard hitch instead but never used one so don't know better or worse with this type of rope construction.

[UNCIVILIZED]

You should be fine without cover on the halyard in the vicinity of the splice. Just when you cut the line to length, leave it long enough so that you can later cut off a few feet & resplice it again later without it being too short.

How thick is the line? I'm just curious, since you're concerned about it fitting the sheave when spliced.

[StuM]

Originally Posted by Delancey

I'm worried about bulk at the sheave if I do a double braid splice. For the size line I have the core alone is way stronger (almost twice) than I need.

Hand-me-downs from a Cookson 50 canting keel.

Or could maybe not splice, leave the cover on and halyard hitch instead but never used one so don't know better or worse with this type of rope construction.

Apart from what Uncivilized said (as usual, I agree with what he said totally ) , another advantage of leaving the cover on is that it increases the bend diameter of the Dyneema core at the hitch.

[SVNeko]

If it is used, you may not be able to splice it with the cover on anyway.

[Delancey]

Halyard hitch? Buntline hitch?

[Benz]

It is not recommended to tie knots in Dyneema--kind of ruins the purpose of high-strength line. Why not just splice it through the bail of the shackle? Unless the bail is super skinny and you're trying to increase surface area by girth hitching, spliced through is more elegant.

[Seaslug Caravan]

Originally Posted by Benz

It is not recommended to tie knots in Dyneema--kind of ruins the purpose of high-strength line.

Maybe, but the cruising reality is , the halyard is sized for ease on the hands and grip on the winch. 10mm spectra speed is good for a BL of 5500kg. The halyard sheave at the top of the mast may be only good for 1200kg. 40:1 halyard winch in the hands of a weakling may be good for 800kg (probably lower if you deal in units of fat crew in bosuns chairs) .

[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by SVNeko

If it is used, you may not be able to splice it with the cover on anyway.

If this is the case, then most times washing the line will help to loosen, & soften things up. About which there are some tips here http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post2153448

[Comix Bay]

To kill off the mold spores, soak in a tub of white vinegar and water. Then rinse. Also works for strawberries, cheese, green onions and radishes, they will keep for weeks.................Ted VA7YQQ

[thunderhoof]

Couple of things-
Wash the line alone with some fabric softener like Fabreze and rinse will with fresh water, then dry totally.
It is best to put the new spice in the end of the line that was not loaded (tail). If the core and jacket do not align or you want to do a core only splice "milk" the cover back until you have the alignment you want. The tail end of the completed line does not need any core as it is unloaded in use and it is also easier to form and eye in the end for a messenger line.
I like a simple buried core only splice, the buried tail at least 12 inches long with whipping stitched through the core at least three places to prevent slippage.
I also like luggage tag splices so make the eye about 3 inches long so you can attach it to the shackle. I like this approach because it reduces chaff at the shackle eye and you can change or repair the shackle if necessary.
Bury the cover in the core as smoothly as possible so it will pass through the mast exit smoothly. Several approaches to this in the books.
Last thing: If the line looks too old or tired or abused, don't even try to reuse it.