Our last boat had it all on the mast and the current
one has it led back. It's not a cheap
date making the conversion. last year I replaced all the block and this year the clutches. The deck organizer is all that remains as original.
The don't do it idea seems harsh but you need to work the numbers.
With our desk stepped mast the collar had points for stand up blocks to lead the halyards to the organizer then to the clutches. There are just clutches and then there are Spinlock clutches. The really good ones are not cheap
. Attachment points for blocks - always through bolted. Screws are for little things not heavy loaded. we have 1 inch holes in the head
liner with plastic fillers so you can get to back side of the bolts. Oh yes, they need backing plates
too. Same goes for the clutches on the cabin top.
Overall I would say this. I don't like jiffy reefing but it works. Slab reefing is the bomb. I had trouble setting a second reef in 30 knots with the jiffy reefing. It worked but it would have been better if it was. When the winds went to 40 knots it showed up. At that point there wasn't much reason to fuss with an almost decent reef.
The friction added is not to be discounted. The halyard on the other boat was about as long and the sail only slightly smaller. At the mast I could hand hoist to the last 6 inches and crank the last bit. Now I crank all the way. A better mast track system would fix it.
I'm more of the mind like the don't fix it folks. I still have a few odd things on the boom like the out haul and the topping lift
but all the rest is led back. Leading back number 1 is sheets
, and number 2 halyards. Reefing lines are always best done well before you need them in all cases. When it's really bad you'll trash your sail and run out of fuel
To lead stuff back you need to drill holes, install backing plates
, and good clutches - period. It's not cheap so do the math. All your halyards and control line are now too short so they all go too. Low friction means fewer blocks.
of thumb is the diameter of the blocks should be 7 times the line size. I found bumping up from 60 mm to 72 mm blocks helped. You probably want 2000 lb blocks so avoid the Schaefer and Ronstan large 1000 lb blocks. They make big blocks with low ratings as well as higher ones too (more money). Harkin does not have low stress blocks in big sizes so you can't screw up. I found the Lewmar
72's to be cheap yet stronger than the old Schaefer's. The sheaves tend to shear after enough UV damage. real fun when the line wedges between the cheek and what is left of the sheave when it's a reefing line. For me it happend just as the first reef set.