Ropework tools

[silversailor]

I expect that all of you who are so knowledgeable about splicing tools can answer may question. I'm looking for a line that use to splice a sliding loop (like the ones used in soft shackles) other than (read "cheaper") dyneema. Double braid?
Thanks.

[UNCIVILIZED]

In theory any 12-strand line with the same braiding pattern as Dyneema should work. Though as to which ones are braided that way? That said, one can often pick up off cuts, spool ends, & close outs of line fairly cheaply. Or even salvage some good sections out of pre-loved spin sheets, halyards, etc.

[Stumble]

Originally Posted by silversailor

I expect that all of you who are so knowledgeable about splicing tools can answer may question. I'm looking for a line that use to splice a sliding loop (like the ones used in soft shackles) other than (read "cheaper") dyneema. Double braid?
Thanks.

It has to be a single braid to work the way you want it to. But take a look at a line called Tenex, it's hard to find in smaller sizes since it's generally used by arborist stomachs remove trees, but down to 3/8 isn't that hard to find.

[Seaworthy Lass]

Originally Posted by markwesti

I need some help , okhaha very funny . The problem I'm having is sometimes (when the splice is finished) I only have core half way in the eye in other words if you were to squeeze the eye between two fingers you would feel core in only half the loop . Here is the method I'm using . If you see it please tell me at what point in the vid you think I'm making the booboo . Thanks . m
https://youtu.be/Ym1-rI0SdaA?t=31

Mark, I started a thread here to explore this:
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post2338755

My conclusion is your relationship with Premium Technique needs to end.

Be kind though, manufacturers have very sensitive souls and get easily upset.
Maybe start by saying "We need to talk".
Then put a sad look on your face and add "This isn't working".
I would then wing it. I hear some people like add "It's not you, it's me".
Whatever you do, let them down gently or you will have all sorts of grief.

I would not shy away from other relationships though. And don't wait too long or otherwise fear and uncertainty will take hold and it will be hard to ever find another partner again.

SWL
PS Some methods may seem hard to win over initially, but they often tend to be the keepers.

[Seaworthy Lass]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

Maybe a stupid question, but you've read his books, right?

The Rigger's Apprentice is one of my most treasured sailing books. Such a wonderful combination when a fine craftsman is also a fine writer. Worth reading just for the sheer pleasure of it; even the parts about techniques you will never use.

I also love his even-handedness between traditional and avant garde techniques. He treats both with equal love and depth of understanding . . .

Originally Posted by Seaworthy Lass

No .

I did not develop a real interest in knots until I started cruising and I have since picked up any knowledge online.

Originally Posted by Dockhead

Give me a mailing address, please, by PM.

Dockhead, many thanks. The "Rigger's Apprentice" arrived 10 minutes ago.
I immediately read the forward, then pg72 .

I love Brion's intense enthusiasm and desire to share his deep knowledge and skills. He has writing skills to boot. I will enjoy reading his book tremendously.

SWL x

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by Seaworthy Lass

Dockhead, many thanks. The "Rigger's Apprentice" arrived 10 minutes ago.
I immediately read the forward, then pg72 .

I love Brion's intense enthusiasm and desire to share his deep knowledge and skills. He has writing skills to boot. I will enjoy reading his book tremendously.

SWL x

Na zdorovie!

Sent from my D6633 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[SaltyMetals]

I have managed eye-spices and end-to-end splices for continous furling lines with a FID on NEW double braid but i met my match trying to use a FID for an eye splice on 12 yr old genoa sheets. Just about destoyed the FID bec it becomes very difficult at the final point where the FID has to pass over a few inches of the inner core. Even rigging experts tell me that if they can do it on old sheets they charge double. I gave up and had to do a "cesarean" on my sheet to recover the FID from inside.

I think the long needles or the Brian Toss splicing wand gets around this problem since the technique takes so much less space inside the cover and is not so much of a problem when it gets to the final overlap of the inner core.

Another problem i find with the FIDs is that since it is a piece of stainless strip bent into a tube fibres of the sheath catch on the part where the FID shape is joined. They should spot-weld the starting edge of the join weld it, but i tried fixing mine with a small blob of araldite on the starting edge. This still does not overcome the inherent problem of the FID occupying too much space inside the core.

My FID set is now at the back of my cupboard, a bit bent and cracked but retired.......
Andrew

[Stumble]

Nope, nothing makes splicing used double braid possible. The cover gets too tight. This does not apply to Class 2 lines (dyneema core) btw they remain easy to splice no matter how old.

I just flat out refuse to splice old polyester as do most of the Riggers i know. It just isn't worth the trouble.

[SaltyMetals]

Greg, I was going to attack the challenge of doing my genoa sheet with a Brian Toss splicing wand but you say it is a waste of time even trying correct?

[jcapo]

I've spliced old 3/4" nylon double braid with the help of soap to lubricate the bury.

[olaf hart]

Originally Posted by Stumble

Nope, nothing makes splicing used double braid possible. The cover gets too tight. This does not apply to Class 2 lines (dyneema core) btw they remain easy to splice no matter how old.

I just flat out refuse to splice old polyester as do most of the Riggers i know. It just isn't worth the trouble.

I recall seeing a suggestion to soak the ends of old poly in hair gel or a solution of same before splicing.

Has anyone had experience of this?

[Stumble]

Originally Posted by SaltyMetals

Greg, I was going to attack the challenge of doing my genoa sheet with a Brian Toss splicing wand but you say it is a waste of time even trying correct?

It is technically possible sometimes. In some very rare cases it may even make sense to try, but it is really difficult to do at all, and even harder to get the bury correct so the load is balanced. Personally I just refuse to do it, it isn't worth the time.

But if you had to for some reason, starting with soaking the line in a lubricant of some sort sound like a pretty good place to begin. Liquid oap, maybe fabric softener, heck motor oil might work. I don't know and I really don't care to try.

The last time I successfully spliced used double braid was probably back when I was in law school and didn't have the money to spend to just buy new line no matter what. Today the 8-10 hours it would probably take me just isn't worth any marginal cost savings on old line.

To be clear though dyneema cored lines can still be easily spliced after being used. So if that what's you have go for it.

[UNCIVILIZED]

When I took his splicing class years back, Brion Toss was specifically against using any lubricant other than Liquid Saliva when doing a splice. As there's the possibility that some of it will remain in the splice, thus allowing things to slip under load & come undone. And as I recall, he too was against splicing used cordage for the reasons already cited here.

On the hair gel question. He recommended using it when doing an Irony Splice to keep the fibers of rope from unlaying themselves, while manipulating them when doing the splice.

[Benz]

Some folks I know will use McLube on the last bit of splice to get it to suck in. Mclube, as anyone who's used it knows, doesn't last nearly as long as it ought to for the price, so it probably disappears from the splice after the first couple of dunkings. I prefer to only splice new line, and refuse to splice used polyester double-braid--in short, if I feel I need lubrication, I'm working too hard.
McLube (or glidecoat, a cheaper version for tool surfaces), does make the Samson fids a lot easier to use.
Ben
zartmancruising.com

[Bigjim]

Originally Posted by markwesti

I need some help , okhaha very funny . The problem I'm having is sometimes (when the splice is finished) I only have core half way in the eye in other words if you were to squeeze the eye between two fingers you would feel core in only half the loop . Here is the method I'm using . If you see it please tell me at what point in the vid you think I'm making the booboo . Thanks . m
https://youtu.be/Ym1-rI0SdaA?t=31

I have not used this exact technique. I normally don't have any leftover remaining. This may be where your problem is. Since you cut several inches off, it may simply walk away over time. If the core is now shorter than the outer cover, I can't imagine how it stays that way.