Rivets or Machine Screws When Splicing a Mast?

[Chotu]

Good god. What is wrong with half of you?

You’re just making things up as you go. You don’t know if there’s a two-part or a one part insert.

You’re just making it up. I’m putting this thread on ignore. This is getting so stupid it’s just a waste of time.

Thank you to those that actually did help out. Neil pride, Jedi. Some of the others. But this is just so incredibly stupid at this point. This was one of the worst threads I have ever seen on this forum.

It’s on ignore now

[s/v Jedi]

My gosh… and the 12mm screws weren’t long enough to bridge the gap…

[Jim Cate]

Chotu, it seems that our responses show that there are several different practices which have been successfully used. You needed to pick one and proceed, but kept soliciting more opinions rather than making a decision... and now you blame the folks who were trying to help and call them collectively "stupid".

I think that's kinda shameful.

Jim

[col50]

Originally Posted by Chotu

Good god. What is wrong with half of you?

You’re just making things up as you go. You don’t know if there’s a two-part or a one part insert.

You’re just making it up. I’m putting this thread on ignore. This is getting so stupid it’s just a waste of time.

Thank you to those that actually did help out. Neil pride, Jedi. Some of the others. But this is just so incredibly stupid at this point. This was one of the worst threads I have ever seen on this forum.

It’s on ignore now

Two-part or one-part insert?
Perhaps you should read your post #78 again.

[Bowdrie]

Chotu, this pic is of an external sleeve that was done by a guy who was a "Sparbuilder" at the "LeFiell" spar company.
It too is a true ellipse.
Even though it is an external sleeve the principal does not change for an internal sleeve.
You'll notice that it is in two pieces, the ~1/8" gap was filled for painting to present a better appearance.
This job was done in the field, he was the "Sparbuilder", me, I was the "helper/gofer" for the job.
It was done with rivets, (a LOT of them).
The guys at "Sparcraft" did similar work, but they also cast keels, rolled plates for aluminum boats, and made the best snap shackle ever invented, (I spent many an hour at that place, it was just around the corner from me).

[Ballsnall]

20 pages to decide on rivets or screws? Man don't keep us in suspense, at least post a photo of the finished product.

This has been one of the funniest threads I've seen in a long time. Thankyou everyone.

[Baby tug]

I still say he should’ve welded it

[JPA Cate]

Chotu, I'm thinking you'd benefit from taking a short break, relax, and think things through.

You got lost in your approximations; and taking the time to figure it all out in mm will help with this because it requires exceptional precision, which is hard with inches. It's okay, 'cause it's doable.

Back in the old days, it didn't matter whose thumb at the boat yard was the "inch", and whose arm the "cubit", though it was probably the same guy, because working in timber, they learned how to be consistent.

Today, for real precise metal work, mm is easier to work with, even if you're a Yank. I've tried using cm for sewing, and it has worked fine. Trust that it will work: I know you're smart enough to make it work.

Take a step back and relax. Really, you and your new boat will be the better for it. And remember to use Duralac for the screws, if they will ever have to come out. If you don't, today when I was catching up was the only time I've read about using the blue Lock-tite; I know the red doesn't work, and I know the Duralac does. It is messy to use, be ready to wipe off excess, but paint the screw well.

Warmly,

Ann

[Ballsnall]

Originally Posted by Baby tug

I still say he should’ve welded it

Fortunately that wasn't an option Baby tug, otherwise we might have reached 54 pages and still no closer to a consensus.

[Baby tug]

Originally Posted by Ballsnall

Fortunately that wasn't an option Baby tug, otherwise we might have reached 54 pages and still no closer to a consensus.

If you say so , It could have been Welded and you would be halfway to Tahiti by now

[RaymondR]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

This is especially true when the internal bit is thicker than the mast itself: do you want the mast dimpled in around a screw?

I wonder if this is where use of a structural epoxy bog in the joint would help?

Jim

Hi Jim,

When I planned my boom repair I intended to use an epoxy putty I've found particularly god as both an adhesive for aluminium and as a filler. I declined to do so because I thought I would get insufficient compression from the screws to squeeze the fairly thick epoxy out from the large surface areas of the sleeve. I am reconsidering now that the boom has taken on a slight bend. Adhesive does a far better job of load transmission than mechanical fasteners in thin materials.

Sleeves serve two functions: alignment of the two parts, and transmission of tensile and compressive loads. Neither of these require a single piece sleeve and even a number of pieces of flat bar are sometimes more effective because thick pieces can provide more thread length to screw into.