Reefing lines free around the boom?

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by LifesBetterWhenYoureBeating

Thanks a lot for the advice, great stuff!

I usually have reef 1&2 lines permanently rigged and would move 1 to 3 if I expect a strong breeze

My usual reefing procedure didn't include that last consideration of yours but I'm going to be doing it from now on

Yes it is a very good strategy. I have a ketch and simply drop the sail when the main with 2nd reef is too much

I have had three reef lines for many years and never used the 3rd reef while always organizing it. Removing it felt like freedom.

[sinnerman]

The padeye keeps the reef line in the correct fore/aft position on the boom. The reef line needs to pull DOWN as well as AFT.

My reef line is set up currently as the "wrong way" in the picture.

I cannot have it the "right way" as my reef lines pass through "cheek blocks" on the sides of the booms and not via sheaves in the boom end, so the massive bowline arrangement does not work for me.

What I have seen many people do and is completely WRONG is to secure the bitter end of the reef line to the metal loop. They pass the bitter end of the reef line through the metal padeye "loop" then put a stopper not on the end. Now all of the reef load is being held by the padeye which only is secured by two #10 (or smaller) screws...

Cheers

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by sinnerman

I cannot have it the "right way" as my reef lines pass through "cheek blocks" on the sides of the booms and not via sheaves in the boom end, so the massive bowline arrangement does not work for me

My 3rd reef is also a cheek block on the side of the boom. No problem at all with the correct method, as long as the block is aft of the reef cringle.

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by sinnerman

What I have seen many people do and is completely WRONG is to secure the bitter end of the reef line to the metal loop. They pass the bitter end of the reef line through the metal padeye "loop" then put a stopper not on the end. Now all of the reef load is being held by the padeye which only is secured by two #10 (or smaller) screws...
Cheers

I think that you are right, in the context of many modern booms made of fairly thin section aluminum.
That, and what we've called "pad eyes", (I've used the term too,) are really just little stamped "eye straps" held on by perhaps 2>3 threads of #10 machine screws.
But "wrong" is not always wrong, it depends upon application.
I use the "stopper knot" arrangement that you mention, but the "eye straps" are heavy section cast bronze and flared, (originally used as jib sheet fairleads,) and they fasten to a heavy section wooden boom with #16 wood screws, (not the weaker "sheet metal screws",) ~2" long.
With the load being in shear the clew would probably pull out before those eyes let go.
However, I can always just use the eyes as a positioning device for a bowline around the boom if desired.

[Jimbo2010]

What diameter Dyneema would you suggest on a 40' boat?

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Jimbo2010

What diameter Dyneema would you suggest on a 40' boat?

What do you have now? It’s easy to match strength when using the Samson website https://www.samsonrope.com/recreational-marine

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by Jimbo2010

What diameter Dyneema would you suggest on a 40' boat?

Me thinks that many lines on a boat should be sized for their ability to be easily handled.
Fumbling with knots/bends/hitches, (or winching,) with small lines is generally not so easy with cold/wet hands.
It's probably just a personal preference.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

Me thinks that many lines on a boat should be sized for their ability to be easily handled.
Fumbling with knots/bends/hitches, (or winching,) with small lines is generally not so easy with cold/wet hands.
It's probably just a personal preference.

It’s different with Dyneema: you modify the line where you handle it. For example, you splice some paracord into it as a core where you want it thicker or splice an outer braid over it where it engages a clutch or winch etc.

[Jimbo2010]

So I can use perhaps 6 or 8 mm and cover the section where cam cleats and winches contact it.

But will that diameter handle the chafe thu the reef points?

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Jimbo2010

So I can use perhaps 6 or 8 mm and cover the section where cam cleats and winches contact it.

But will that diameter handle the chafe thu the reef points?

I use 6mm and there’s no chafe whatsoever.

[Jimbo2010]

Got it, thanks

[Windpilot]

no thoughts on turning blocks on the clews?
I had lots of chaff issues, 3 different breaks at the #1& 2 clews on my recent transpac. Put blocks on them in Honolulu sailed home 3100nm no chaff issues.
Also silky smooth running reef lines.

[donradcliffe]

I delivered a Jeanneau that had single line reefing with turning blocks on the sail at both tack and clew. With a smaller dyneema line it was a pretty slick system which did not require going to the mast.

[Jimbo2010]

I saw Low Friction Rings used also

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Windpilot

no thoughts on turning blocks on the clews?
I had lots of chaff issues, 3 different breaks at the #1& 2 clews on my recent transpac. Put blocks on them in Honolulu sailed home 3100nm no chaff issues.
Also silky smooth running reef lines.

Your Dyneema reefing lines chafed through on the reefpoint grommets? I guess everything is possible, they probably had a sharp edge from swaging or something; mine are smooth and the Dyneema looks untouched by them.