Possible to replace standing rigging alone?

[mikereed100]

Originally Posted by odeapt

So I don't even know if i need to replace the entire standing rigging. I'm getting a 33 Cape Dory surveyed in a few days to buy her. The owners had the rigging replaced about 5 years ago, but when I inspected it, one wire was cracked just above the norseman fitting. So i was thinking it might just be safer to plan on replacing everything.

My plan would be to take down 2 opposite shrouds at a time and take the wire into a shop so they can help me get the right length. Installing the fittings on the wires looks pretty simple. I've been looking up ways to ascend the mast alone and it looks pretty easy. I'm considering doing this job myself because it doesn't look too complicated. But maybe there is something I am overlooking?

You are on the right track by replacing all the rigging. That wire should not have broken after only 5 years and who knows where the wire was sourced and what quality was used. Rigging Only uses good quality S. Korean wire and tests every spool to ensure it is up to specs. Having Norseman fittings you are already way ahead as far as cost. You need only buy wire, assuming the turnbuckles and clevis pins are also only 5 years old. No need to involve a rigger to make sure your measurements are right. Just measure the old shroud in place, pin to pin, then remove it, remove the Norseman fittings, lay the new wire on the dock with the fittings, open the turnbuckles to about mid-point and, using your pin to pin measurement, figure the length of wire you need. Cut the wire, replace the Norseman fittings, check your measurements and put the stay back up.

Your biggest challenge will be working out a safe and efficient way of getting up and down the mast, but this is a skill that all cruisers should have and this will be a perfect opportunity for you to perfect yours.

[S/V Alchemy]

Yes, but only if you are fit, observant, precise and have occasional help (like someone to crank and to handle safety lines).

The absolute easiest course is to strip off the old stays and shrouds and to have them replicated to precise sizes by a rigging shop in new wire (if you propose to go with PBO or newer line rigging, I can't help you as that is a whole other ball of wax). I assume you want to avoid the cost of swaging and to use the swageless terminals already mentioned. Get extra cones and even extra terminals. Odds are good you'll damage something or find a problem you can't remedy.

I would try to absorb a book on rigging so you are precise in your terminology (pun intended). You are going to take work away from a rigger; I would suggest you offer, should you need their advice, to pay for it. Same with people on the dock: a bottle of rum or a few beers to a gifted amateur in this regard could save you hundreds or keep you from beginners' errors.

[George DuBose]

If one has a keel stepped mast, it is no stress to remove one stay at a time or in Skylark's case, I can remove all the stays and the mast will stand (in calm water).

A friend who is a professional rigger told me to order my stays with swaged ends for the upper ends and use Sta-Lok fittings on the lower ends. I ordered the new stays from Defender a bit longer than what I was replacing. I also ordered new Hayn turnbuckles and got a great price for the package.

I used 60 feet of 2" ID PVC pipe on saw horses and put the old stay in along side of the new stay. Used a Dremel to cut the new stay to length and then installed the Sta-Lok.

In the end, I spent about 3500 dollars. At that price, I can afford to change the stays every 10-15 years.

I also store the mast indoors during the winter to avoid cyclic loading and water freezing in the Sta-Lok fittings.

[roverhi]

Using Sta-Loks and a mast climber from ATN ATN Mastclimber | Single Handed Bosun Chair | Climbing the Mast have rerigged my 35' boat. Only help I needed was to drop and rehoist the forestay/furler as I didn't want to risk bending the foil. I got everything ready then climbed to the mast head and called my helper over. I pulled up/lowered the stay and he kept the foil from getting too great a curve as it went up/down. Needed his help for less than a half hou each way. Did the rest of the stays/shrouds solo. lowered each stay and used as a pattern to cut the wire and install the StaLoks. Used halyards to replace the missing stay. Can be done in any order. Should be doable in a day

FWIW, did the rerig when I was 70 and am still going up the mast at 72. StaLoks aren't cheap but doing the work yourself makes them competitive with swages which I distrust with a passion. It wasn't the first time I've rigged a boat. My first experience with StaLoks was rigging our W32. Did it in a little over a day with no help or previous experence. Did have my wife to help winch me up the mast on that one. Sailed that boat to SoPac and back and owned for 10 years without an issue.

316 wire is more corrosion resistant than 304 wire but lower in strength by about 10%. It's not that 304 will rust out but leaves more rust streaks and doesn't stay as bright as 316. Both will have some surface corrosion.

[Peter1949]

Rigging Only Fairhaven Mass
Ship them the old and they will give you a estimate and duplicate and ship back to you.

[Jim Cate]

Your biggest challenge will be working out a safe and efficient way of getting up and down the mast, but this is a skill that all cruisers should have and this will be a perfect opportunity for you to perfect yours.

Sadly, his biggest challenge is likely to be acquiring new cones for his Norseman terminals. See many threads/posts on this subject here on CF.

jim

[Delmo]

Hi, I replaced all my standing rigging on my 50' motor sailer with the help of one offsider, replacing one shroud at a time and whilst on my pile mooring. I'd had the shrouds professionally made up and fitted with new turnbuckles. Slow and steady was the recipe for a successful change-over. I then had a professional rigger come and adjust all the tensions. Only cost me $50 for that!

[ErikFinn]

Originally Posted by roverhi

316 wire is more corrosion resistant than 304 wire but lower in strength by about 10%. It's not that 304 will rust out but leaves more rust streaks and doesn't stay as bright as 316. Both will have some surface corrosion.

Is some surface corrosion an issue? How much corrosion can one have until replacement must be done? What exactly are the visual cues?

[valhalla360]

It's been 3-4yrs but last time I pulled the mast it was about $300 round trip (34' boat with 45' mast). That would make it really easy to pull all the stays, take them in and ask for new ones to be made up rather than a couple dozen times up the mast by yourself.

[roverhi]

Originally Posted by ErikFinn

Is some surface corrosion an issue? How much corrosion can one have until replacement must be done? What exactly are the visual cues?

Rigging wire is normally replaced for cracking of the swages, broken strands in the wire, and preventative for age. Very seldom that corrosion itself is a cause for replacement. Have seen swaged wire that's still holding up the mast after several decades and really ugly staining. Essentially you are living on borrowed time with rigging that is older than 10 years, however. Careful inspection of the wire and dye penetrant checking of the swage terminals could keep your rigging going longer but no guarantees.

Someone did destructive testing of old swaged rigging and their results were unsettling. Swages that were cracked and looked to be close to failing exceeded the wire strength while others that looked good failed prematurely. Think that's the reason for the 10 year precautionary replacement time. As I said above, there are a ton of boats sailing around with rigging way older than 10 years.

Lewmar is marketing mechanical terminals that look a lot like Norsemans. Anyone know if the cones are compatible with Norsemans????