Visit our Popular Forums

ladypirate · 09-04-2010, 13:37

It seems I am missing something to support the boom. Viewing other sailboats of same size, they all have a stay connected to the end of the boom going to the top of the mast. I don't have the hardware to connect to. Is this an option?

Does anyone know where I can view or purchase a instruction manual on rigging?

Tom Hildebrandt · 09-04-2010, 13:42

I know nothing about a Victoria 18, but what you describe sounds like a topping lift. the primary function of a topping lift is to support the boom when the sail is being raised or lowered. They also serve to prevent the leach of the sail from being stretched.

I do not know any rigging books, but I bet if you goggled toppiing lifts you would find answers!

Tom

DennisM · 09-04-2010, 13:45

I think Tom is right. It sounds like a topping lift, but not all sailboats use them. Maybe this Vic 18 facebook page has people or info you'll find helpful: Victoria 18 Facebook Page

**Pblais** · 09-04-2010, 13:47

It's not uncommon for a trailerable boat of this size to not have a "topping lift" since it can be stored mast down. With larger boats the weight of the boom can be high and the boom could chafe against the boat. How do you store your boat? While you could add a block to the top of the mast to run a line to the end of the boom so you might pull this line to raise the boom.

Not all boats are alike so that alone is not a reason add one but you could. Is there some reason you feel you need one?

**David M** · 09-04-2010, 13:48

Most 18 foot sailboats do not have topping lifts. They are placed there to support the booms on larger sailboats whose booms are heavier, longer and therefore more dangerous. You could rig up a topping lift but the chances are that your boat never came with one.

**David M** · 09-04-2010, 13:49

Paul beat me to the punch.

Prerequisite · 09-04-2010, 13:56

Most people with boats that size will support the boom by tying the outhaul to the main halyard in lieu of a topping lift since you'll rarely need to suspend the boom while the sail is actually on it.

Jimboats · 09-04-2010, 14:10

Would a boom crutch help?

ladypirate · 09-04-2010, 14:12

Only from observing other sailboats the same size at my marina. Wasn't sure if I was missing parts to rig the main sail. I had a friend rig the boat for me yrs ago and back to storage. did not pay attention.

At this point haven't sailed yet except with motor to get a feel for the water way. Sails not up.

rtbates · 09-04-2010, 14:24

A boom lift was the very first thing I added to my old San Juan 21. Unless you enjoy having a boom beat about the cockpit when rasing & lowering the main ALL sailboats benefit from a topping lift. Dead end it at the boom end, up to a block at the mast head and back down the mast to a cleat. DO NOT HAVE THE CLEAT, IE, THE END THAT YOU USE TO RELEASE/SECURE IT AT THE BOOM END.

**GordMay** · 10-04-2010, 05:07

See the Rigging Guide, excerpted from the original Owner’s Brochure
Here ➥ Care and Feeding...

Rigging:
A. Mast and Boom are all extruded anodized aluminum. For best appearance a coat of wax should be applied to all surfaces and repeated on a semi-annual basis. This will keep the surfaces clean and make the removal of salt and road film much easier.

B. Shrouds. Two uppers - Two lowers - and forestay, are 8 / 8 - 1 x 19 marine dried stainless steel. They require virtually no maintenance other than periodic wiping with a damp cloth.
While doing this, you should check terminals for any fraying as well as the shrouds themselves for kinks.

C. Turnbuckles - are also virtually maintenance free. They should be visually inspected for cracks and occasionally the threads should be lubricated lightly with WD-40 or a similar substance.

D. Spreaders - are free floating fore and aft. Vertically they should stand straight out or at a slightly upward angle from the mast.
The upper shrouds should be taped or covered at the spreaders with spreader boots to eliminate the possibility of chafing on the genoa during tacks or while close hauled.

E. Rigging the Mast:
a. Attach all shrouds to the mast.
b. Lay the mast on the deck with the step forward on the bow pulpit. (A piece of line may be used at this point to hold the step to prevent the mast from rolling off the boat).
c. Extend all the turnbuckles to within approximately 1" of their fully extended position.
d. Separate the starboard upper and lower shrouds and drape them over the starboard side of the boat. Do the same for the port side shrouds and drape them over the port side.
e. Now attach the upper and lower turnbuckles to the Chain Plates making sure that the Upper Shroud turnbuckle goes in the AFT Hole of the chain plate and the lower shroud turnbuckle is attached through the froward hole.

(IMPORTANT) All clevis pins should be installed from outboard to to inboard. There are two primary reasons for doing this.

1. If the cotter pin should break for any reason, gravity will help hold the clevis pin in position.
2. If the cotter rings are placed outboard, the Jib will hook on them while the Jib is luffing and rip them out.

This procedure should be followed through-out the rigging.
ALL COTTER RINGS AND PINS INBOARD.

f. Halyards - The Main Halyard should be run through the two nylon sheeves at the mast head. Make sure the shackle is placed on the aft or slotted side of the mast. This halyard may now be secured tothe starboard cleat at the base of the mast. The Jib Halyard should be run through the block located on the forward face of the mast about 1/8th of the way down from the mast head. The shackle end of this halyard should be placed so as to be away from the mast. This halyard may now be atached to the cleat on the port side of the mast.
(NOTE

Standardization of the halyards on the mast (main starboard, jib port)
is done so tht there is never any question about which is which. You should be able to automatically reach for the port halyard, release it and see the fore sail come down. This should apply to any boat. Imagine the embarrassment as well as possible injury that could occur. You are sailing on a friends boat.
a squall comes up suddenly. The skipper yells to douse the Jib. you instinctively grab the port halyard. The skipper gets hit in the head with the boom as the Main Sail comes tumbling into the cockpit. Don't laugh, it happens!!!
It's dangerous!!!

2. Stepping the Mast - This is a two person job. No muscle is required, just some thinking.
Let's assume a male-female combination. No chauvinism intended here! Do it any-way you want, but for example we will use this combination.

a. Remove the pin from the tabernacle at the foot of the mast.
b. Place the female crew member on the Aft Deck, facing forward, just behind the travelor. The male crew member should be forward at the pulpit
c. Pick the mast up and move Aft with it. The female will be holding the mast over her head and moving it Aft. Go slowly as balance at this point becomes critical.
d. Position the Aft holes of the tabernacle plate on the mast so that they align with the Aft holes on the tabernackle deck plate located on the top of the cabin.
e. Insert the tabernackle pin. (NOTE

A pair of pliers may be useful at this point to apply pressure to the pin. It may be necessary to move the mast from
starboard to port to slightly facilitate lining up the pin.
f. The male crew member now moves to the Aft end of the cockpit and while standing on the seats, facing forward, removes the burden of the mast from his female
counter part. At this point the female will move forward, checking starboard and port to assure the shrouds are clear of anything that might snag them when the
mast is raised, and positions herself on the deck in front of the cabin
g. The male crew member will now walk forward, the mast overhead, raising it to its full up position.
h. The female will then attach the forstay to the bow plate.
The forstay attaches to the second hole aft from the bow.

This whole operation should have taken roughly 60 seconds, so don't get frustrated, reading
this.

i. Lowering the Mast - Utilize the same technique in reverse.

3. Tuning - It is most likely the single most important aspect in the rigging of your boat. The tuning of your rig has more to do with its sailing characteristics, pointing ability, etc. than any other facet of your boat.

a. Tighten the uppers and the forstay until the mast is in a straight up position, forward and aft as well as port and starboard. The uppers and forstay should, at this point,
should be tight much like a guitar string, you should be able to pluck them.
b. Now tighten the lowers, still keeping the mast in its straight attitude. The lowers should not be as tight as the uppers. You should be able to hold the lower shroud, placing the palm of you hand flat against the inboard side of the shroud and with the other hand pull the shroud forward and aft approximately 2" from center. If
the lowers are to tight, the mast will bend forward.
c. Install the locking rings into the lowers and uppers so that they cannot turn and then tape these rings in such a way as to eliminate the possibility of chafing.
d. Install the locking rings in the forstay.

Your boat should now be in tune. Small adjustments may be made as you sail the boat because of stretching in the rigging as well as any modifications you may feel will make the boat, perform better. "This is a starting point, not a Law." Play with the tuning as you understand it.

When lowering and raising the mast from this point on, it is only necessary to disconnect and readjust the forstay. The lowers and uppers should stay attached and tuned.