Making Your Own Deadeyes

[seandepagnier]

I want synthetic rigging, but dont want to pay much for all the deadeyes involved. What would be a good easily obtained material for deadeyes?

Would delrin work? I can get blocks of it, then cut with a jigsaw, drill holes, and file where needed.

It has a 18,000 psi compressive strength. What other materials would be good?

Does anyone have a decent design or drawing of a deadeye?

[tager]

Delrin is self lubricating. I thought about making these up as a business, but there just isn't a big enough market for synthetic standing rigging. I am pretty sure an oversize stainless thimble would get the job done as a deadeye, if not perfectly, at much less investment of time and money!

[knothead]

Originally Posted by tager

I am pretty sure an oversize stainless thimble would get the job done as a deadeye, if not perfectly, at much less investment of time and money!

It depends on what is being used for the lanyard, but you're right, it's possible to get a good lashing around a big thimble.

Delrin should be fine for deadeyes. It's a failsafe system if the splice around the deadeye is performed properly anyway.

[ConradG]

Lignam Vitae seems to last for a few generations. Why use anything else?
They are still available from Dauphinee and sons in Lunenburg Nova Scotia I think if you don't want to make them yourself.

I have seen them made from aluminum which is close to galvinized steel (both zinc and low carbon steel) on the galvanic scale so corrossion sholdn't be a problem. I am asuming you are staying away from stainless shrouds for longevity of course. That stuf work hardens and has to be replaced relatively often and definately doesn't get along with aluminum.

[knothead]

Originally Posted by ConradG

Lignam Vitae seems to last for a few generations. Why use anything else?
They are still available from Dauphinee and sons in Lunenburg Nova Scotia I think if you don't want to make them yourself.

I have seen them made from aluminum which is close to galvinized steel (both zinc and low carbon steel) on the galvanic scale so corrossion sholdn't be a problem. I am asuming you are staying away from stainless shrouds for longevity of course. That stuf work hardens and has to be replaced relatively often and definately doesn't get along with aluminum.

One of the advantages of synthetic rigging is in the weight savings. Plus lignum vitae would probably be pretty costly.

[MichaelC]

A good set of directions for deadeyes may be found in Smith's The Marlinspike Sailor. Use a hardwood. Locust or lignum vitae or whatever you have available locally. Soak them in linseed oil for a few days, let them thoroughly dry and proceed. Easy to use and maintain. I made a set out of walnut. If you are setting up a traditional rig, why not go with traditional materials? Galvanized wire is easily obtainable, see Toss's book Rigger's Apprentice for easy to follow directions. I typically wrap the rigging in cloth electricians tape [NOT PLASTIC!!] and then serve with a serving mallet as he shows. I find tarred nylon net twine to serve the wire locally, black, of course. You stretch the wire between two trees or whatever - very tight, start the mallet going and then stand in one place jerking the wire up and down against the tension and the mallet will serve the whole thing. Magic, I tell you. And the technique is a couple of centuries old. I made my serving mallet so a whole spool of net twine will fit onto the roller. See the book and this makes sense. You can splice the wire around mast head and deadeye, but you can also fasten it with two round seizings. Three books for you: Brian Toss: Rigger's Apprentice, Emiliano Marino, Sailmaker's Apprentice, and HG Smith The Marlinspike Sailor. Indispensable and worth every nickel you spend.

[knothead]

Geckosenator posted that he wanted synthetic rigging not traditional rigging.
I would agree that wood would be more appropriate for traditional rigging.

[seandepagnier]

Does anyone know what the minimum radius for a deadeye for dyneema would be?

Also, what kind of line should I use for the lanyards? I thought about using smaller dyneema, but 1/4" is already pretty small. Maybe 1/4" dacron would be better because it can hold knots and its distributed over 6 lines?

[MarkJ]

Originally Posted by geckosenator

Does anyone know what the minimum radius for a deadeye for dyneema would be?

Sheeve diameters on rotating sheave blocks
Twisted Rope = 10 times the rope diameter
Braided Rope = 8 times the rope diameter
The diameter on fixed pin termination should be at least 3 times the diameter – i.e., the bending radius for 1/2" rope should be 1-1/2"

[tager]

If you just go with thimbles of 10x the rope diameter, it may look silly, but it will be strong, and you will definitely be able to put a lashing on it without crowding your lanyard.

[seandepagnier]

Yeah, I was thinking just using all stainless thimbles, then use shackles to attach to chainplates?

The lanyard would need a bowline or different knot since it cant use a stopper through the hole. Any suggestions on how to rig with thimbles rather than deadeyes?

[mikereed100]

Hampidjan says for blocks the diameter should be 10x the rope size but you can go as low as 5x with some loss of strength and usefull life.
http://www.hampidjan.is/media/pdf/Dy...intainance.pdf

I use 6mm dyneema for my deadeyes on a 46' cat. The breaking strength is something ridiculous like 4 tons and there are 10 wraps. When added up the breaking strength is about 84,000 lbs. The 14mm wire and 7/8" pins the deadeyes are attached to have a breaking strength of about 30,000lbs.

I paid a bit over $60 apiece for aluminum deadeyes from Precourt. They would be cheaper for a boat your size.
Precourt Rigging - Designer and manufacturer of innovative sailboat rigging systems - Internationally recognized for our synthetic rigging systems
Chainplate Distributors | Colligo Synthetic Systems | Colligo Marine

I would think that Delrin would be fine, especially as it is UV resistant. I wonder if there is a reason why the above riggers chose aluminum over Delrin? Might be worth a jingle. Both Dave at Colligo and Eric at Precourt are nice, helpfull folks who enjoy talking about synthetic rigging.

If you use thimbles, attach the Dyneema with a Brummel splice, keeping in mind that the radius will not be optimal. SK 75 does not like tight bends and Dux likes it even less. Instructions are on the Colligo website.


Mike

[thinwater]

It strikes me that the synthetic is going to be far stronger than the Delrin, so there may be no purpose in going fancier than polyester. If I were going that way, I would check the math. It's sort of weakest link thing; I commonly see high tech line used in lashings, folks worrying over its knot holding ability, when it is far too strong for the application anyway.

[tager]

The lashings don't need to be dynex dux, or even dynex. Thinwater has it right. The lashings will be way stronger with less creep than the stay. As long as you get a line that tolerates the small radius, you should be fine. As to the lower termination I am not sure what would be best. It seems that some thick aluminum or stainless tubing or rod would work. That shouldn't be too difficult to keep captive. Maybe even build it into the chainplate.

[baranof]

I have used the synthetic decking material,trade name TREX. Turns easily on a lathe and has good compressive strength.Unaffected by water etc.