Low friction rings for furling line

[fxykty]

Originally Posted by Pete7

An interesting discussion on knots and rope, but how much is the antal ring and half a metre of double braid and how does it compare with a standard stanchion block?



Admittedly I could only afford one Harken so the others are spinlock but at £18 it was a quick fix that made a huge improvement.



Worth stating that again. The original blocks had worn after 3 decades and a couple had seized. The reduction in friction was very noticeable and the furling line is back to being an easy pull hand over hand rather than round the winch.



https://jimmygreen.com/348-stanchion...-and-fairleads

Agreed, I have added another furling line on the other side in addition to the original jib furling line. I replaced the two old stanchion lead blocks on the jib side with a number of stanchion fairleads for both sides recently.


Price wise two fairleads were the price of one LFR, and certainly installing with a couple of bolts is heaps simpler than lashing.

It’s also a very low load application, so no reason to use a LFR rated heaps higher.

Of course, you need a cheek block or similar for the right angle turn (on a cat) at the bow. On a mono the lead is much straighter and as long as the angle is less than 30 degrees a fairlead will be fine.

[DenisHeinrichs]

Originally Posted by fxykty

Agreed, I have added another furling line on the other side in addition to the original jib furling line. I replaced the two old stanchion lead blocks on the jib side with a number of stanchion fairleads for both sides recently.
Attachment 239846

Price wise two fairleads were the price of one LFR, and certainly installing with a couple of bolts is heaps simpler than lashing.

It’s also a very low load application, so no reason to use a LFR rated heaps higher.

Of course, you need a cheek block or similar for the right angle turn (on a cat) at the bow. On a mono the lead is much straighter and as long as the angle is less than 30 degrees a fairlead will be fine.

Although the picture I posted was of a LFR lashed to a stanchion, on my boat the furling line actually rubs up against a turnbuckle on the bottom of one of my shrouds. I figure that it would be the same lashing method....


The boat builder should really have installed an extra stanchion, as the lifelines are only a inch or so away as well (that was until I installed stainless tubing instead and curved it nicely conforming to the hull).


Also, I have a couple of Antal rings of the correct size and a good length of thin dyneema already.....hence my original question.


I do use some stanchion lead blocks on my stanchions and do not plan on removing them. I just need to get the furling line off of the turnbuckles and this seemed like a reasonable way to do it.


Denis

[alaskanviking]

Originally Posted by Pete7

An interesting discussion on knots and rope, but how much is the antal ring and half a metre of double braid and how does it compare with a standard stanchion block?

Admittedly I could only afford one Harken so the others are spinlock but at £18 it was a quick fix that made a huge improvement.

Worth stating that again. The original blocks had worn after 3 decades and a couple had seized. The reduction in friction was very noticeable and the furling line is back to being an easy pull hand over hand rather than round the winch.

https://jimmygreen.com/348-stanchion...-and-fairleads

Unfortunately for me i have 1 1/4" stanchions. most stanchions are 1", and there isn't a lot of options for me. currently I have big roller bearing rings that go over the stanchion. but theyre 30 years old. I gave them some love and they roll well now, but there are two that need to be replaced that are a little stiff. for my stanchions these are ~$120 each. I am adding a roller furler for the staysail later as well, so switching to lashed on low friction rings for all but the first two would be rather beneficial and cost effective.

[bcboomer]

alaskanviking

Would these work?

https://hardware.schaefermarine.com/...x&cPath=91_177

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by bcboomer

alaskanviking

Would these work?

https://hardware.schaefermarine.com/...x&cPath=91_177

Wow! Those prices make my eyes water and the LFRs look really good!

Jim

[bcboomer]

Pricey but they fit 1.25". Obviously LFR's are a better buy.

Luckily our boat came with the very nice Harken blocks. They were totally unused because the PO had them on backwards.

They work a lot better the right way!

[Matt Johnson]

Garhauer is $40 for the 1-1/4" outside running stanchion blocks. Prettier too!

https://www.garhauermarine.com/stanc...lock-sb-4.html

Matt

[alaskanviking]

Originally Posted by bcboomer

alaskanviking

Would these work?

https://hardware.schaefermarine.com/...x&cPath=91_177

Here is what i have;

https://hardware.schaefermarine.com/...gb2t9q4vqsrhg0

$160 each on that site. I have 8- 10 of them I believe. 2 are corroded inside the bearing race and barely turn, 2-3 of them turn ok but are a little sluggish. I took them all off and soaked them in salt-a-way and hot water with degreaser, a little dry silicone spray to help smooth things inside and keep them spinning. when i add the staysail furler ill need another 6 or so in addition to the replacements. That's at least $1000!

was thinking that I take the 4-6 best I have and move them to the forward 2-3 stanchions where the most curve is and use low friction rings for the rest.

[bcboomer]

Originally Posted by Matt Johnson

Garhauer is $40 for the 1-1/4" outside running stanchion blocks. Prettier too!

https://www.garhauermarine.com/stanc...lock-sb-4.html

Matt

I missed those.

Garhauer are often the best priced manufacturer.

[RaymondR]

If you have access to a drill press you can make pretty neat ones out of scrap aluminium or stainless RHS with a hacksaw and a hole saw.

[walkabout08]

I have made continuous dyneema loops that are lashed tight around the antal ring, covered the lasting with shrink tubing, then luggage tag to the attachment, in your case a stanchion. I use them for fair leading my reef lines at the front of the boom. L-36 has a good website. There are lots of youtube videos as well. 3/16" should be a good diameter to work with.

[doctorbill]

It looks like two hose clamps at 90 degrees to each other would work, but a nice lashing will look more salty.

[cottonsail]

Garhauer has stanchion blocks that are very low friction. https://www.garhauermarine.com/stanc...on-blocks.html

[thereefgeek]

I had to make a couple fairleads to guid the furling line around our pulpit. I spliced some Dyneema strops (search saltylass) with some small low friction rings (search that, also) and came up with these. Take your measurements and splice accordingly based on standard practice. Good luck.

[PaulRaymond]

I realize this is a few years later, but I've tried to do something similar. I tied a buntline around the ring, then proceeded to lash it and finished with a constrictor knot around the lashings between the ring and stanchion, but I can't get that to hold. I've attempted a constrictor knot to finish on the stanchion, but it is not quite a constrictor knot as the entry line coming in is coming off of a wrap around the stanchion, so is at an angle. Could you explain how you would lash this, or perhaps a few pictures, please?

Originally Posted by Breaking Waves

Do you still need help with this, or do you have it all sorted?

It is not hard or complex - I could take a series of step by step photos if you needed.

There are multiple ways they can be done . . . but a simple one is:

(1) tie cord around outside of ring (with perhaps buntline hitch, or spliced loop)
(2) wrap around the stanchion and back around outside of ring to create the top and bottom loops around the stanchion as shown in your drawing.
(3) then make a constrictor knot around cord in between the ring and stanchion - this tightens up the whole thing and makes it solid.
(4) the loose end you can tuck away or sew down to make it clean