How big is too big for uncoated stainless lifelines?

[Breaking Waves]

Originally Posted by fxykty

Vinyl tubes are OK, but not wire with vinyl bonded to wire.

hmmm . . . you might have a debate with various inspectors about that. I have not looked at NZ's current specific regs but they have usually followed the WS OSR's

The WS OSR's read : "
3.14.6 c) Stainless steel lifelines shall be uncoated and used without close-fitting sleeving, however, temporary sleeving may be fitted provided it is regularly removed for inspection."
w

[fxykty]

Originally Posted by Breaking Waves

hmmm . . . you might have a debate with various inspectors about that. I have not looked at NZ's current specific regs but they have usually followed the WS OSR's



The WS OSR's read : "

3.14.6 c) Stainless steel lifelines shall be uncoated and used without close-fitting sleeving, however, temporary sleeving may be fitted provided it is regularly removed for inspection."

w

Here it is https://www.yachtingnz.org.nz/sites/...28small%29.pdf

Copied the lifelines section:

17.17 The minimum diameter lifeline wire shall be:
Yachts under 8.5m (LOA) 3mm
Yachts 8.5m to 13m 4mm
Yachts over 13m 5mm
*Wire manufactured with a plastic coating shall not be used.*
Grade 316 Stainless Wire is recommended – 1x19. Tape unacceptable.
If fibre used instead of wire e.g. single braided dyneema, spectra, vectran, dynex or similar, there can be no tolerance for wear. Material must be protected from U.V. and chafe by a sheath.
Sheath can be taken as an overbraided core over the main load member of the same material or another type of material.
The strength of the fibre must be equal to or greater than that of the appropriate stainless steel wire.
The wire shall show no significant signs
of corrosion or weathering. When plastic tubing has been used it should be cut at its lowest point to allow any water to drain.

[alansmith]

I also put my vote on dynema. Stronger than steel, doesn’t rust, doesn’t develop meat hooks, lighten the boats load, and easy to replace when worn out. Just get your needles and thread and splicing needle and good to go.

[OrangeCrush]

Originally Posted by Breaking Waves

btw - if this is a meaningful issue for you . . . it is possible to bush the holes down to near whatever size wire you choose. Would be a bit of extra work, but not that hard.

Hi,

Do you have a suggestion for how to do these bushings? I'm definitely going to have some "wiggle room" in the stanchion post holes. Not sure if it will be undesirable or insignificant when they are tightened but I'm considering the bushing idea and wondering what you had in mind. Thanks!

[CarlF]

I don't think you're getting any increased safety for oversizing. I've never heard of 3/16" coated ever breaking except for failure at an end fitting from hidden corrosion or weld/crimp failure at the ends. I'd just put in 1/4" upper and lower.

If you want to increase safety and have low stanchions, think about putting in 36" stanchions to make it harder to fall over them.

[OrangeCrush]

Yes I went with 1/4” top and bottom, mainly for availability and cost…

Now I’m just wondering about bushings since those 1/4” wires will be passing through holes sized 3/8” (top) and 5/16” (bottom).

I’m wondering if anyone has a solution in mind to keep them snug in the holes so they don’t “clink” when they’re leaned on.

[Tayana42]

[ATTACH]240349

I went with 3/16” wire through 3/8” holes in the stanchions. Not need for bushings.