Help! Siezed Lofrans Royal Windlass

[Adam]

Hi Can anyone tell me how to remove the main drive wheel. The part the handle fits into.It appears to be a force fit or heat shrink onto the Bevel gear inside the main body.the bearing between the two is solid.Any help greatfully accepted. Regards Adam

[GordMay]

Try searching IMTRA:
IMTRA Marine Products

Lofrans "Royal" Manual: http://www.imtra.com/downloadTypes/R...al_English.pdf

[Steve Pope]

I have just rebuilt a Lofrans Tigre which appears to be the same (in appearance) to the Royal and although I found some of the parts fairly tight to remove there was nothing that I had to use a puller on. The inner taper for the gypsy came off with the assistance of 2 large screwdrivers, (tyre irons would work as well or maybe even better)
Steve.

[Janusz]

Adam, did you get your problem solved? I found myself in the same situation and desperately need help. The comment by Steve misses the mark. We are talking about the opposite end here (not the gypsy end which I agree comes off easily). any help from anyone will be greatly appreciated. Janusz

[nigel1]

Originally Posted by Janusz

Adam, did you get your problem solved? I found myself in the same situation and desperately need help. The comment by Steve misses the mark. We are talking about the opposite end here (not the gypsy end which I agree comes off easily). any help from anyone will be greatly appreciated. Janusz

Dont know the windlass, but I found a discussion on another forum, not hopeful-
Lofrans Royal manual windlass - maintenance - Yachting and Boating World Forums

Have attched the drawing.

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Janusz.

[Charlie]

Janusz I had the same problem and made a big mistake. I tapped on the brass shaft with a hammer which destroyed the top of the shaft and then I had to have a machinist repair the shaft for me. I would think that a press might be the best way to remove the plastic parts from the shaft but am not sure if that would cause damage as well. Once the shaft was repaired I had to take all of the plastic parts and take a piece of 100 grit sandpaper to enlarge or decrease the size of the plastic parts so that they would fit properly. I just found the website that I used to make repairs to my windlass Atom Voyages | Voyages Aboard the Sailboat Atom - Lofrans Royal Manual Anchor Windlass Repair

[Janusz]

Thank you Nigel.
Charlie, after reading the Atom Voyages article on the subject I found out his problem was similar but pertained to the gypsy end of the shaft. But his idea of using a pipe and tap the plastic sleeve out seems like an idea I was looking for. Will try it tomorrow. Thanks for this link.
Janusz. s/v Wereda, wereda.com.

[nigel1]

Hi Janusz,
Looking at the drawing, are you saying that part No. 506 is seized on to 499, and is the plastic sleeve 491 between 506 and 499??
Is there enough space between 506 and 499 to get 3 or 4 small jacking bolts in between to help ease them apart.
Another thought, have you tried placing the assembly in a oil bath and gently heat up (not to boiling point). Found that really helps with stubborn seized on bearings.

[Janusz]

Thank you Nigel. It appears that it is the exact spot where it is stuck. But in front of the plastic sleeve there is an aluminum ring with a key mated to 506, mounted co-axially but I can't find it on the drawing. So the chance is that this might be a culprit as well. Now, the catcher is the part #500 - a "circlip". with all that disassembled I can't seem to find where it hides. I've been soaking the assy in CorrosionX all day yesterday. Prior to that I used hot water with detergent to rinse out any remaining salt crystals. As soon as I make the tool to unscrew the horizontal bevel gears and find the circlip, I'll try to use pipe and hammer to tap the thing out. If necessary I will use heating as you've suggested. Many thanks. Janusz.

[The Way]

On another make of aluminum-bodied windlass, I couldn't loosen stainless-steel bolts with PB Blaster, heat, and impact. But they yielded as soon as I poured boiling water over them. Sometimes what looks like aluminum corrosion is just impacted salt. The same might apply to these sleeves.

Fair winds,
The Way

[Charlie]

I am a bit confused as to your numbering because I don't see a part 506. What happened in my case was that the plastic sleeve #498 (which fits between the shaft 502 and part 499 which I will refer to as the H gear) had swollen to the point where the gear could not turn nor would it come off. As I see it if the piece of pipe that you use to get the gear off is 6" longer then the shaft you really shouldn't have a need to remove the circlip until after the gear has been removed from the shaft. The circlip sits on the H gear and prevents the plastic sleave 491 from falling off of the gear. The plastic sleeves (2 - 491's and 493 and 498) all need to be sanded or replaced so that the H gears will be able to turn about the shaft. I am not an expert at this by any means but that is what I did to get my windlass to work.

[nigel1]

Originally Posted by Charlie

I am a bit confused as to your numbering because I don't see a part 506. What happened in my case was that the plastic sleeve #498 (which fits between the shaft 502 and part 499 which I will refer to as the H gear) had swollen to the point where the gear could not turn nor would it come off. As I see it if the piece of pipe that you use to get the gear off is 6" longer then the shaft you really shouldn't have a need to remove the circlip until after the gear has been removed from the shaft. The circlip sits on the H gear and prevents the plastic sleave 491 from falling off of the gear. The plastic sleeves (2 - 491's and 493 and 498) all need to be sanded or replaced so that the H gears will be able to turn about the shaft. I am not an expert at this by any means but that is what I did to get my windlass to work.

Hi Charlie,
506 is the turning gear, the one you stick the handle/bar into.
From what I can read, he cannot get that part to separate from the plastic sleeve 491, which appears to fit over part 499

Edit, just looked again, that part 506 appears to sit directly on 499 (as you call the H gear), and is keyed on. I think that is where the problem is, getting those to bits to come apart

[Charlie]

Originally Posted by nigel1

Hi Charlie,
506 is the turning gear, the one you stick the handle/bar into.
From what I can read, he cannot get that part to separate from the plastic sleeve 491, which appears to fit over part 499

Edit, just looked again, that part 506 appears to sit directly on 499 (as you call the H gear), and is keyed on. I think that is where the problem is, getting those to bits to come apart

Nigel:
I am not positive but I think that 499 does sit on 491. The reason I remember this is because the sleeve 491 was so swollen that 506 would not turn. I had to hit 491 with sandpaper. I was able to get 506 off by reassembling the windlass and using the body as a base to pry from. Another method may be to use a variety of wooden wedges and pound them in between 505 and 506. I spent some time looking at the windlass but can't remember exactly how it worked when together but I think that the keys on the non threaded side of the shaft held the drum part 343 to the shaft. and the key on 499 held 506 in place on the shaft . This allowed the H gear to ratchet because of the spring and parts 496 and 497. I do have some pictures of the shaft I sent off to the machinist and don't see any place where the circlip would fit on the shaft. I don't know if this helps but I did study how the windlass worked and with alll the parts it was pretty obvious.

[Janusz]

Thank you Nigel, Charlie and "The Way" I am very grateful for all your help.
I have found a mechanic here in Chaguaramas that will use hydraulic press to push the stubborn assembly out. Will report on the outcome. I am still puzzled by the ciclip issue and I think, I remember ratchet-like sounds while the handle was moved back and fore. Where would that mechanism fit? Ah, well. Possibly the answers will come soon. Many thanks to all for all the help.