Furling line routing, lashing rings

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by The Yacht Rigger

Agreed, but the lashing line on the stainless will also cause corrosion - just the lack of oxygen, combined with salt residue.
Drilling and tapping SS is tough, no doubt, but once done, if you use high quality fasteners and put some tefgel on the threads, corrosion will be almost zero, and it will last 20 years.

I would hope for more than 20 years! You got me curious now and the ring I have all the way forward at the furler drum is as exposed to sea spray as it gets, so I will take it off and make pictures, trying to find pitting or the black spots from stainless steel corrosion.

I also have hinges drilled and tapped onto my railing for a folding fish cleaning table. I could see if those screws want to come loose and look under there for comparison. Both have been on there for more than 10 years.

[GreenWave]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

What?! Lashing lfr’s to stanchions is the best thing ever! But you need to use larger rings and use a small Dyneema lashing that runs through the ring, not around it.

The ring will lock to the round stanchion, keeping it aligned at all times.

Much, much superior to blocks!

The attached picture isn’t great as I zoomed in a general picture of Jedi but I think you can see how the ring performs. I use New England Ropes Spyderline for the lashing, which is a Dyneema core with polyester cover so that it doesn’t slip.

You can’t move that ring at all.

Except OP is trying to lash them to outside which poses a bigger problem stability-wise.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by GreenWave

Except OP is trying to lash them to outside which poses a bigger problem stability-wise.

Yes, I missed that at first. But as I later explained, it can still be done and I have included a picture that seems to also have the lashing around the ring.

Soon I’llbe back at the boat and can try things out

[GreenWave]

Jedi

I also replied too fast as I later saw some other ideas. I still think outside the stanchion is a tough ask and over complicated.

[Brendan]

I wanted to do the same thing and have 1.25" stanchions. I found Garhauer in California makes a product invented by a cruiser that lets you put the furling lines outside - and stops them falling out when slack. I bought a bunch of them and they work really great!

https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/...on-block-sb-4/

[GreenWave]

Originally Posted by Brendan

I wanted to do the same thing and have 1.25" stanchions. I found Garhauer in California makes a product invented by a cruiser that lets you put the furling lines outside - and stops them falling out when slack. I bought a bunch of them and they work really great!

https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/...on-block-sb-4/

Aha! Very nice. and ironically cheaper than the ones that go on the inside!
:-)

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by stormalong

Look at these:

https://www.schaefermarine.com/our-p...urling-blocks/

Ben using them for about 30 years.

We have these too. 3/4 and 1 inch. They fit over the stanchion. If your posts are not removable the lifelines need to come off. Good time to replace the obsolete plastic covered cables.

[nofacey]

Just another non-welding option - you should be able to find right sized pipe mounts, fab your own metal plate, use fairlead of your choice.

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by nofacey

Just another non-welding option - you should be able to find right sized pipe mounts, fab your own metal plate, use fairlead of your choice.

Good idea, I did that 20 years ago on my boat, outside too, simple Johnson fairleads.

[merrydolphin]

Originally Posted by jtsailjt

I have 4 of those each for both my jib and staysail. They work great but I think when I bought the most recent ones they were over $100 each for the larger sized ones you’d need so well over $1000 total “invested” for me. If I’d seen Jedi’s solution first I think I’d have gone in that direction instead and saved a lot of $$.

A hundred each! That ‘s crazy. I know we have had inflation but it has been coming down, but not the prices. I think that many companies are use the excuse of “inflation” to really price gouge. And this greed is really hurting the country and its people.

[Ryban]

Originally Posted by nofacey

Just another non-welding option - you should be able to find right sized pipe mounts, fab your own metal plate, use fairlead of your choice.

This is kind of what I'm thinking will be the route I go down. I will probably fab my own, and like the idea of going with a composite or plastic material over metal on metal.

[s/v Jedi]

So here is a follow up with three options actually tested:

This is a quickie using some paracord with loose knots so that I can take it off easily. For a real install I recommend Samson Lash-it which is Dyneema and now available on Amazon. I have the larger 2.2mm which I recommend.

Also, use constrictor knots instead of half hitches etc. and hide the lashing instead of what I did.

1. Large 20x14 Antal LFR. Can be used inboard or outboard. With a couple of wraps it can’t be moved, 100% solid.

2. Piece of string. Totally acceptable for use outboard only. The line runs against the stanchion.

3. Large climbing ring. Not as solid as #1 and needs to be lashed through the ring while the LFR has a completely empty ring. Still, perfectly acceptable for use inboard. You can turn it about 1/4” back and forth but that isn’t a problem, is it?

Of course you can run multiple lines through these.

[s/v Jedi]

I bet you thought that was it no, of course I had to try my massive 100mm rings that I’m gonna use for my runners.

This is a joke because they are way too heavy and the inside opening is smaller than the climbing ring.

You can buy 316 stainless steel rings on Amazon too. When there is only a small angle on the line running through then that would work too.

[Sos]

There's some good options there.

Did you get to check for corrosion under your existing lashings yet?

[s/v Jedi]

About the line used for lashing. This is the first time I have Samson Lash-it in my hands and I really like it. I think it holds any knot at full load so no trouble at all with lashings that have hardly any load on the knots.

The 2.2mm diameter is the largest size and it has an average strength of 290kg. This means you can count on half a ton for each loop and no stretch.

This will replace the Spyderline that I have used often because I had knots slipping in thin Dyneema so preferred a polyester cover to prevent that.

I am looking at lashing three large (2.1 meter long) carbon fiber beams to the too of my stern arch and calculated that maximum force on a lashing would be 1 ton. This would only require two loops so four or six would be just fine. Still feels thin for the job