Furlex Furler: Connection Spring problem

[AnnetteBosun]

Hi there, I've been trying to fix my furler: the connection spring above the feeder came out (see pictures) of the little hole and I'm having trouble getting it back in as it seems slightly bent and I have to work through that little hole due to limited accessibility. Online forums suggest that I have to "disassemble it", which I am not sure involves taking the entire furler down or simply the luff extrusion?
Anyways, my furler is old... that's all I know; I found the manual from the previous owner but it doesn't say which model (!) it is. My guess is, it's from the early 90s. Anyways, I looked at several manuals online and it seems that my problem involves parts that are still in use.
Pic 1: I marked that connecting spring (which is simply keeping together the different extrusions (tube-y parts) of the furler) in red... maybe it's clearer this way. It came out of the hole (circled red) and I can't get it back in.
Pic 2: this is how it theoretically looks inside (this is from a more modern furler manual)
Pic 3: this is it in the grand scheme of the furler

For any advise, I'd be happy! Thank you!

[captjcook]

Unfortunately, I am with others on total disassembly. The connecting spring, long flat "U" shape must be installed in extrusion holes then joining sleeve slid under it to lock in place. A picture of the drum would help identify model, Type C =8-10 mm wire, Type D=12-14 mm wire, assembly directions are the same.





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[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Annette.

[AnnetteBosun]

Thank you so much! I was scared someone might say that
I am just a bit helpless in terms of disassembling it, and what that all involves. Do I take the roll off and the bearings and all of the extrusions? Or just the lower part up until that 2nd extrusion (i.e. drum and that bearing)?
And I am not sure how to get the connection springs out of the extrusions, they seem fairly hard to push down.

I am also attaching photos of the drum, just in case this is helpful. Again, thank you!

[captjcook]

My Pleasure,
The manual is available online, I googled "furlex type c manual"

The connecting springs are not meant to be removable without disassembly as they have an insert behind them to lock them in place...it will only damage the extrusion by forcing it.

I believe you will need a new connecting spring as it may be bent...very difficult to straighten.

The installation instructions require the furling line to lead off the drum to port. (Does not care lead aft port or starboard) This allows the extrusion to rotate nearly a full turn before tack starts getting furled.

I completely rebuilt my furler last year when I replaced rigging. (Not my first) I also painted the unit to look like new. I studied the manual, took my time and had the whole thing apart in 60-90 minutes. Reassembled in about the same time. A bucket or blanket to catch ball bearings... Reassembly of balls was easy as I packed them into grease.

There are two issues:
It takes a good wack to free the Staloc cone. The spindle shaft can be bent. (Mine was by PO) I was able to true it.

The instructions require trimming the outer strands from the headstay to remove Stalok cone...this can be removed without trimming. It will need to be trimmed a small amount to move wedging stress. ( I recommend a cutoff wheel) Be sure you understand relationships of parts....study the manual until it makes sense. Trimming the headstay changes weather helm.

I am happy to guide you along after you study the manual...send a pm to get my attention




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[captjcook]

I thought about the drum lead vs tack bearing, I know this would cause you some other stress as your sacrificial would be on the wrong side...I really do not see why the system would care if the sail was tacked on with the tack bearing rotated the other way. (It rotates freely about 350 degrees) to allow the extrusion to take up the belly of sail first...probably just a blindsided engineer like me had it in his mind that it had to be that way....disclaimer, disclaimer, disclaimer...
Jim


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[AnnetteBosun]

Wow, thank you!
I just found the manual - it is way more information than the printed one I have at home. Anyways, I looked at spare parts (yes, I can already tell my connection spring is bent), the part # being 308-018 for a 1000mm Luff Extrusion and 308-022 for a 2000mm one.
I will order the part asap, but sadly, it won't make it until my time in the dock is coming to an end and I will move back out (live-aboard) on my mooring-buoy. So I might have to wait a bit before I tackle the problem. But I will for sure (this season!) and would be grateful to take you up on your offer to walk me through it once I've become familiar with the manual!

Thank you again!

Annette

[captjcook]

Glad to help. I wish it was easier.

Jim


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[AnnetteBosun]

Hi there!
I know it has been a while since we communicated about this, but I am finally finding the time to tackle taking my furler apart to replace the connection spring!
Having studied the manual and particularly the section on dismantling the furler, I am not able to figure out if I need to first detach the forestay attachment at all, when all I want to do is get the luff extrusions etc. off to replace the spring. The other question is if I will be able to deal with the stay slack and parts potentially starting to slide off, once I get to the part of removing the eye part and wedge from the wire. Should I get another person to assist with holding the stay etc.?

Thank you so much in advance!
Best wishes,
Annette

[captjcook]

Hi,

Having rebuilt mine, in no way would I attempt to do this vertically! Please be safe and take it down...

The most difficult part is removal of the Sta-Lock. The rest is patience! A towel to catch ball bearing is also a good plan.

The stay must be removed to slide the inner alloy sleeve down, freeing the connector.

Fully disassemble the drum and invert (flip) bearing cups/races...choose the best races for the uppers, the load is up. To reassemble pack the races with grease (I used Teflon grease) lanolin should be fine and the balls can't escape making reassembly stress free.

I have faith that you will be successful!

Jim

[AnnetteBosun]

Thank you!

So to make sure I got it: I don't tamper with the upper connection on top of the mast!

Other than that, what exactly do you mean by "choose the best races for the uppers, the load is up"? I am not sure what races and uppers are here (the manual doesn't use these terms).

Thank you so much!

[captjcook]

Ok...

I am suggesting and speaking to doing some extra pm while you have to take it down anyway.

I am not near my manual...it will be a day...to reply using exact terms used...sorry, but I will respond...

Cheers!

[Alskipper]

Hello Annette,
I’m having the same problem, but it cost me a ripped cut in half sail, ohhhh!
I’m trying to do it by myself, I was wandering if you got the springs , if it was easy to install it, and as I was reading, you take off the whole system to do it flat?
Well , I know this is an old conversation , but let’s see if you are still there.

Good winds!

[davidfay]

I just finished disassembling and then re-assembling my Type B Mk II Furlex furler, so I can probably answer your questions about how to proceed.

The first thing to do is get the manual and read it carefully. Just about everything you need to know is contained in the manual. However, there have been many models of Furlex furlers over the years, so be sure you get the correct manual for your furler. They're all online at:
https://theyachtrigger.com/selden-furlex-manuals/

Also, get the Spare Parts list for your furler at:
Sparepart lists : Seldén Mast AB

My first attempt at fixing my furler was extremely frustrating because I was using the wrong manual (left to me by the previous owner of my boat). Once I had the correct manual things got a bit easier.

I won't try to give instructions on how to make a repair but you should understand that this can be a very challenging project, at least it was for me. Old furlers are often bent at the joints which can lead to all sorts of problems.

Suffice it to say, I had to cut my furler apart with a cutting wheel which required that I replace several parts. However, Selden no longer sells parts for my furler (Type B Mk II), so I had to find squirreled away or used parts at various rigging companies. They weren't particularly expensive but it took a couple of months to get all the parts I needed to complete the project.

If you have particular questions, fire away and I'll try to answer them.

David

[Alskipper]

Thanks a lot David,
I just put me in contact with the
https://theyachtrigger.com/selden-furlex-manuals/
I’m still guessing which one is mine but , I think what is going on in my furler and it’s in my luff connections , the springs , two of them particularly.
We are still working on it!
I will keep you posted!!
Thanks for your help, it was a great resource!!

Best