Frozen Whisker Pole Jaws

[jpendoley]

Need some advice for the frozen jaw on my sloop's whisker pole. Its track mounted on the mast and the lower jaw is frozen closed. I was able to drive the pin open enough to get it off the ring on the base of the mast, but it only will retract when driven back in with a hammer. The tripping mechanism to close the jaws also does not seem to work. I've used penetrant liberally for weeks...
Also, the pole end fitting tha'ts frozen is not riveted or screwed to the pole end yet it does not move on the tube-what the heck holds it on? I had considered cutting it off and ordering a new end fitting-but that seems like a pretty drastic solution for a simple problem. Anybody experienced the same and come up with a good fix?

[Orion Jim]

Apply some heat and gently twist the pin. If you get any movement continue with the penetrating oil, heat, and gently persuading the pin.

[carstenb]

Try letting it sit in boiling water - could be nothing more than salt deposits. if boiling water doesn't work keep dousing with WD40 IF you can move the pin keep applying WD40 while moving the pin

[jpendoley]

Originally Posted by carstenb

Try letting it sit in boiling water - could be nothing more than salt deposits. if boiling water doesn't work keep dousing with WD40 IF you can move the pin keep applying WD40 while moving the pin

I have managed to tap it out with a hammer and punch . There is no apparent flaws, but it does not move in or out without being driven. Do we need a new pin or a new approach?

[Don C L]

No need for a new pin. I had the same issue but worse with a spinnaker pole. Mix equal parts acetone and automatic transmission fluid and let it soak overnight or longer if needed. Mine work like new now.

[rognvald]

PB Blaster. Nothing better for corrosion.
Rognvald

[donradcliffe]

I agree with the previous posts--work the pin back and forth 50-100 times with a lubricant and it will loosen up.

The ends are normally held on an aluminum pole with pop rivets or sheet metal screws, but maybe yours was glued on. At least between the tube and the pole end fitting you are dealing with similar metals.

[Marathon1150]

We had this problem with a whisker pole that we bought, knowing of the issue. The PO sold it as is.

I used vinegar and then WD40 after tapping the pin out with a punch and hammer. Worked perfectly.

[replusted]

Originally Posted by jpendoley

Also, the pole end fitting that's frozen is not riveted or screwed to the pole end yet it does not move on the tube-what the heck holds it on?

The pole end fitting is held on with epoxy. Apply heat from a torch while twisting the fitting. Apply the heat uniformly around the entire perimeter of the pole end. The epoxy will eventually soften and you'll be able to remove the fitting.

[hpeer]

Funny, just had a similar issue.

I believe there us a spring inside that is supposed to push the plunger forward. Once I drove the plunger out I still could not see the spring. It was completely covered in corrosion. I used a short piece of 1/8” ss wire rope in a battery operated drill. I taped it up leaving about 1/2” free and buggered that over. I then gingerly inserted that into the hole and slowly rotated it to dig out the corrosion which which had encased the spring.

It took time and patience and PB Blaster but it cleaned up nicely. The spring looked and acts as good as new. With the trigger I just kept working it with PB Blaster until it came free.

I messed up the drive pins that held the trigger in place. They were slightly bigger than 3/32. So I have improvised and used a bit of 3/32” TIG filler rod to make the pins, just bent them over to hold. The wire rod should be available at a welding shop is cheap and very useful on a boat.

[jpendoley]

Everyone thank you for sharing your ideas. I’m going to try the acetone and transmission fluid trick and see if that works. Have heard about it for years, but never got around to trying it so will be interesting to see how it works. Will only take off the end fitting if all else fails!

[Jim Cate]

so will be interesting to see how it works.

Not magic for s/s-al corrosion, but always WAY better than WD-40!

Jim

[Sky2sail]

Hate to state the obvious, is the tube extended so it has room to open? Happened to me and a few friends

[Scubaseas]

Originally Posted by rognvald

PB Blaster. Nothing better for corrosion.
Rognvald

This is the way. Once you get the pin moving remove it and coat with TefGel or Lanacote.

[IanTrail]

We have this problem frequently. Stainless pin in an aluminium casting laying on deck being sprayed with salt water: seizing is inevitable. We use all the techniques recommended: boiling water, clouting, penetrating oil (WD40 etc) usually in that order. Tefgel/Duralac might help prevent it but I can't see how you could keep it between the pin and the casting.