Dynex Dux Synthetic Rigging

[memelet]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

FWIW:
Question for all: Since Samson ropes says that a simple splice with a few stitches stuck into the throat of the splice will hold 95-100% breaking strength, why should one go to the trouble of using Brummel splices? I have been using these splices in highly loaded areas (running backstays) with no noticeable slippage. Comments?

Cheers,

Jim

But locking brummel is so easy. It literally takes just a few minutes to make one in dynema.

[s/v Beth]

I can't' quite get my head around soft standing rigging. Running rigging however is perfect for the stuff. My halyards are dux with kermantle at the cockpit end. Love them for 3 years now.

[Holloway]

I am strongly considering replacing our very old stainless rigging with Dynex Dux. There is a lot of information out there, but I'm having difficulty finding the answers to these 3 fairly basic questions. Thanks for any assistance the group can provide!

1. If the masthead will allow for separate attachment points, would there be any disadvantage to twin backstays? Weight would be less of an issue with the Dynex Dux. It could reduce the complexity down low, keep things very strong, and the chainplates are actually angled toward the masthead. I am rigging her with cruising in mind -- not racing. About how much tension would you want on each?

2. If I go with lashings for the standing rigging, how much space is optimal between the chainplate distributor and the terminator on the Dux?

3. Do you use the stopper knot to begin the lashing, or do you splice the line directly to the terminator for standing rigging?

Thanks!
Josh

[mikereed100]

Josh,
I splice directly to the distributor as you lose a good percentage of line strength with the stopper knot. http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ts-118009.html
I don't know if there is an "optimal" space between the distributors, but I like to leave enough room so that the buried tail of the splice does not enter the opposite distributor (when did we stop calling them "deadeyes"?)

[Holloway]

Thanks so much Mike. You have a large boat. Do you find it hard to get enough pretension using the lashing system?

Thanks again!
Josh

[Stumble]

I love my Dux rigging and wouldn't go back. On my boat the chainplates didn't work very well with lashings so I went with chainplates and a 7" extension plate to make up the difference.

[Holloway]

Thanks Greg,
Did you use turnbuckles? What didn't work with the lashings?
Thanks!

[beiland]

Just yesterday I dug out an old model sailing catamaran vessel I had taken down to Miami Boat Show back in 2005, and put it together on my outdoor coffee table. It's a model of a mast-aft sailing rig I was trying to sell at the time. I was proposing to utilize some 'unusual rigging' arrangements on this vessel, to include some of the standing rigging components.

For instance I wanted to consider having some of the rigging actually wrap around the mast section....

Originally Posted by [B

this posting[/B]] excerpt...FORWARD JUMPER STRUT
Now I propose that we offset this entire cross-load pushing by the aft jumper strut with an opposing forward jumper arrangement. In order to accommodate the inner forestay and its sail this fwd jumper fixture will likely assume a ‘V’ configuration that is somewhat conventional in form. BUT, the assembly is also unconventional in form. In the first place it is not set perpendicular to the mast tube, but rather in-line with the push of the aft jumper strut. And the included angle between the two struts might well be 60 degrees rather than the more common 90 degrees. AND it will NOT consist of two individual jumper stays (wire cables), but rather will be fashioned of a continuous loop of ‘cable’ that would wrap around the back-side of the mast at its lower ‘termination’, and might even do so at its upper ‘termination’.

The actual jumper stay ‘cable’ itself will be constructed from one of the new-age synthetic rigging materials such as Dyneema, Spectra, PBO, LCP, Aramid, C-6 carbon tow, etc. Ideally this stay material will have NO pre-stretch requirements thus no pre-loading. It should be very strong upon immediate application of force, and in a minimal diameter that it can be looped around the mast section in a continuous manner, at least on one end, maybe both. As a continuous loop, ‘both sides’ will always be carrying ½ the total load, rather than one side under load, while the other might be slack. There will also be a minimum of ‘fittings’ required to attach them to the mast (less weight, less failure pts). I imagine a simple ‘block’ of material attached to the mast around which the loop of this jumper stay can not slide any further along the mast….and one end needs to be adjustable

[beiland]

One of my goals with that rigging i discuss above (wrapping around the mast) was to eliminate a lot of those extra fittings we so normally ended up with on a great majority of our wire rigs. Paul Calder laid it out rather well with this 'blog'

Synthetic Standing Rigging: The Modern and Traditional | Sailfeed

Simply put, it takes a lot of cajoling to make rigid steel perform a task meant to be filled by rope and while it can be done it is nonetheless a complicated and imperfect system. Not surprisingly, the failure of stainless steel wire rope and its attendant fittings is one of the more common serious dangers that sailors face. Nevertheless we put up with this because there just isn’t much else in the way of options.

Synthetic rope has potential to eliminate many of the modes of failure which plague sailboat rigging because it bypasses much of the complexity that is required to make steel act like rope.

[Stumble]

Originally Posted by Holloway

Thanks Greg,
Did you use turnbuckles? What didn't work with the lashings?
Thanks!

I completely missed this a year ago... the holes in the chainplates were too sharp and kept cutting the lashings. So we switched to turnbuckles. It probably would have been possible to ease the corners, but I like turnbuckles more anyway, it makes tuning the rig much easier and repeatable than using lashings.

[w32honu]

Installed a Dux backstay about 1 n 1/2 years ago. No problems so far…………….

Backstay is obviously free of all chafe and the like. So no big surprises there.

[Aikiguy]

I have rigged about 9 boats so far in Colligo Marine products.

I can't recommend it enough. I recommend it over SS almost every time. However I only recommend it if you want the boat to sail faster, better, more comfortably and easier. :-)

Correctly sized, and used there is virtually no elongation of any type. There is an initial adjustment for temperature in your area of sailing, but that is easy.

Guy
:-)

[w32honu]

Guy,

How do you personally handle the potential for chafe at the spreader ends??

Sounds like you might be in the business…….??

Tx

S

[Stumble]

Originally Posted by w32honu

Guy,

How do you personally handle the potential for chafe at the spreader ends??

Sounds like you might be in the business…….??

Tx

S

My mast came with spreader ends designed for Dux so I just wire tied them in place. In addition it isn't a bad idea to install a chaff cover right where the spreader hits. I see no need so far on my boat, but I wouldn't be opposed to it.

Alternatively there are retrofit ends available from a variety of sources. But I would probably go with Colligio Marines.

[thinwater]

I would also look at New England Rope's Spectra Chafe Guards. I tested these on a machine for A PS article, and they are nothing short of awe-inspiring. Spreader tips would be a great application.