Dyneema brands, standing rigging, UV and chafe

[earthbm]

So, I am having trouble finding 600' spools (one 5/8" and one 3/8") of SK-78 or better dyneema at non-retail prices. If anyone has any leads, please PM me or post here. Finders fees in form of beers or rum&cokes near Bristol RI in April, or Florida/Bahamas in May.

Will also need 4x250' halyards, in case someone is in a similar position, so we can share 4 spools. And sheets.

Ditto for Truekote CS 100 or Yale Maxijacket...

Does Defender discount rope in their spring sale?

[Benz]

Originally Posted by earthbm

So, I am having trouble finding 600' spools (one 5/8" and one 3/8") of SK-78 or better dyneema at non-retail prices. If anyone has any leads, please PM me or post here. Finders fees in form of beers or rum&cokes near Bristol RI in April, or Florida/Bahamas in May.

Will also need 4x250' halyards, in case someone is in a similar position, so we can share 4 spools. And sheets.

Ditto for Truekote CS 100 or Yale Maxijacket...

Does Defender discount rope in their spring sale?

Please send me a PM; I'm near Bristol and can sometimes scrounge odds and ends.

[earthbm]

The biggest find from this thread for me is TrueKote CS 100. It seems perfect:


Chemline, the manufacturer of TrueKote CS 100, has a $1,000 minimum order for new customers. That works out to about 6 gallons.

I think I’d only need 1-3 gallons (may do the trampoline nets with it too). So need 1-3 others to split the order.

If anyone in New England is up for a group buy, please PM me. Target delivery mid-April. Please spread the word.

[Benz]

Originally Posted by earthbm

The biggest find from this thread for me is TrueKote CS 100. It seems perfect:


Chemline, the manufacturer of TrueKote CS 100, has a $1,000 minimum order for new customers. That works out to about 6 gallons.

I think I’d only need 1-3 gallons (may do the trampoline nets with it too). So need 1-3 others to split the order.

If anyone in New England is up for a group buy, please PM me. Target delivery mid-April. Please spread the word.

If you can get the syndicate together, I'll go in with $180 for a gallon. Little more than the cost, but you deserve an administrative fee. I've asked around, but no other interest yet.

[seandepagnier]

How much will a gallon cover? I may be interested in a gallon but you would have to ship it south...


I am also wondering about a split backstay. Has anyone considered a Y splice? This would be relatively easy to do, but I'm wondering if there are any pitfalls. If the angle is not too great would it be acceptable? What angle? Same as typical eye splice? It would save a bunch of cost on hardware and weight.

[fxykty]

Originally Posted by seandepagnier

How much will a gallon cover? I may be interested in a gallon but you would have to ship it south...





I am also wondering about a split backstay. Has anyone considered a Y splice? This would be relatively easy to do, but I'm wondering if there are any pitfalls. If the angle is not too great would it be acceptable? What angle? Same as typical eye splice? It would save a bunch of cost on hardware and weight.

Regarding a Y-splice, wouldn’t that simply be an eye splice, then cutting the line in the eye to get the two legs? If so, then the Y angle should be same as the throat angle of an eye - less than 15* for Dyneema for example. That would generally be a very high Y - much higher than usual. Rather than the cost for all that extra Dyneema, why not end the backstay with a low friction ring or terminal, then lead the single Y line through that fitting and to the two corners? That’s only the cost of a single piece of hardware.

[fxykty]

Originally Posted by seandepagnier

How much will a gallon cover? I may be interested in a gallon but you would have to ship it south...





I am also wondering about a split backstay. Has anyone considered a Y splice? This would be relatively easy to do, but I'm wondering if there are any pitfalls. If the angle is not too great would it be acceptable? What angle? Same as typical eye splice? It would save a bunch of cost on hardware and weight.

Regarding a Y-splice, wouldn’t that simply be an eye splice, then cutting the line in the eye to get the two legs? If so, then the Y angle should be same as the throat angle of an eye - less than 15* for Dyneema for example. That would generally be a very high Y - much higher than usual. Rather than the cost for all that extra Dyneema, why not end the backstay with a low friction ring or terminal, then lead the single Y line through that fitting and to the two corners? That’s only the cost of a single piece of hardware.

[earthbm]

in the interest of science I made 5 quick soft shackles out of 3/16 Amsteel Blue, and coated them with two competing truck bed liners, two competing rubberized underside coatings, and a “UV-protected” textile paint. When they will dry I will hang them in So Cal sun for 6 weeks (my timeline before making a decision). Let’s see what happens. All look like paint (thin coats) rather than an external skin like TrueKote. The underside coatings the thickest.

Still think TrueKote would make my dyneema shrouds’ life longer than mine…

[seandepagnier]

Originally Posted by fxykty

Regarding a Y-splice, wouldn’t that simply be an eye splice, then cutting the line in the eye to get the two legs? If so, then the Y angle should be same as the throat angle of an eye - less than 15* for Dyneema for example. That would generally be a very high Y - much higher than usual. Rather than the cost for all that extra Dyneema, why not end the backstay with a low friction ring or terminal, then lead the single Y line through that fitting and to the two corners? That’s only the cost of a single piece of hardware.

I would not do that because if one of the back chainplates fails there is no redundancy.

I think I will simply make all 3 lines have eye splices with thimbles and join them with a shackle.

[Breaking Waves]

Originally Posted by earthbm

All look like paint (thin coats) rather than an external skin like TrueKote.

Nice,

jfyi - when I have used the truck liner, I have double-coated - let the first coat dry and then dip/soak it again. More work but gives it a bit more external 'skin'. I think you could build it up to almost any thickness you wanted if you rinsed repeated it.

Two coats was enough for me, I was just trying to 'rubberize' the aluminum toggles a little bit and extra secure the Dyneema loop a bit.

I 'may' have an opportunity to talk a 3rd party into some real UV testing procedure - not totally sure yet, but if it goes ahead it will definitely take longer than you want to wait for results in any case.

[poiu]

Also consider the risk of solvents. Many paints and coatings use solvents, some of which may be harmful to dyneema.

[Breaking Waves]

Originally Posted by poiu

Also consider the risk of solvents. Many paints and coatings use solvents, some of which may be harmful to dyneema.

UHMWPE has been quite chem tested (widely used in food and chem applications) and is generally quite resistant. Stay away from Benzene Sulfuric Acid, Fluorine, & Methyl Chloride and you are pretty good - also Toluene, Trichlorethylene, Xylem to be totally good. Pretty much any one-part rubberized coating is going to be fine. There are some 2-part paints you would want to avoid.

see for example - UHMWPE Chemical Resistance and Compatibility Chart

[earthbm]

Originally Posted by Breaking Waves

Nice,

jfyi - when I have used the truck liner, I have double-coated - let the first coat dry and then dip/soak it again. More work but gives it a bit more external 'skin'. I think you could build it up to almost any thickness you wanted if you rinsed repeated it.

I did apply another coat the next day and it looks a lot thicker. I think I will do another one and then let them sit. The test is not to wait for UV damage, but to see how stiff and brittle the paint will get.

[seandepagnier]

Originally Posted by earthbm

I did apply another coat the next day and it looks a lot thicker. I think I will do another one and then let them sit. The test is not to wait for UV damage, but to see how stiff and brittle the paint will get.
Attachment 253186

Are you using rustoleum spray paint?

eagerly awaiting your results. I received heat set dyneema 2 days ago and will replace my stays over the next few months.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by seandepagnier

I would not do that because if one of the back chainplates fails there is no redundancy.

I think I will simply make all 3 lines have eye splices with thimbles and join them with a shackle.

The shackle isn’t more reliable than a chainplate. I recommend a high strength low friction ring with the backstay spliced around the ring and each bottom leg splices through the ring. If the ring fails, everything stays connected because the eye splices are linked.