Confessions of a novice fancy worker

[Seaworthy Lass]

Hybrid high strength lanyard

I am thrilled with this one .

At first glance it may not be apparent why, as the lime green cord is awful and the speckled appearance just detracts from the weave, which is a bit too short. This small length of green is all I had of reasonably soft cord. Paracord in black, grey and red is arriving next week .

Nylon's long term chafe resistance, particularly when wet, for sections where it passes around small diameter bails (are all small attachment points called "bails"?) concerns me a bit. These lanyards are often holding torches and knives of value, even if only sentimental.

A couple of days ago I suggested that maybe a piece of Spectra fishing backing line could be incorporated as a safety measure. I decided to take this one step further and try making the portion going around the attachment point entirely of dyneema.

Attempt one was via a spliced loop I made in 3mm dyneema. Too thick. So I made the next one with a straight portion dyneema that would need to have tails buried if I wanted to conceal them.

I then had two choices: incorporate the dyneema in the weave or leave it simply as a backbone.
I did not incorporate it into the weave for the following reasons:
- It was not needed for strength
- The weave would then be slippery
- Using part dyneema for the weave would mean the woven material would not match
- No dyneema in the weave would mean the braided portion was free to slide, even if tightly woven on the "backbone" of dyneema (this thought was sparked by Uncivilized's comment of making a small Turks Head and then sliding it up the lanyard to help keep the cow hitch connecting the lanyard to the object in place)

To hide the tails of the weave I wanted to pull them into the weave itself, as BelizeSailor had done.

Several attempts where made to find a weave that could be started and finished in a pleasing manner. I ended up starting the weave with "Brion's Button" (I am calling it this to distinguish it from the hundred buttons in the ABOK) and then feeding the dyneema through the centre, then weaving multiple Crown knots around the dyneema plus four doubled over "pulling cords" of whipping twine, which would allow the tails to be pulled back. I finished with another Brion's Button with the dyneema passing through the centre again.

The weave was a huge success. The dyneema passes absolutely beautifully right through the Button. Only problem was that the weave was two tight to pull all 4 tails through. So I undid it all and repeated the weave with 4 bits of the green line laid along the backbone so that the core of the weave would end up a bit wider when the 4 bits were pulled out at the end, leaving room for the tails. Perfect!

The weave is tight on the dyneema, but the dyneema is so slippery that the weave can still be slid. This means the small loop at the end can be opened up to any size, cow hitched to the object and then the weave pushed right up against the cow hitch, making the lanyard useful for a variety of objects.

I wanted a big loop at the end, as this acts as a safety line. It is so easy to drop objects when hands are wet and cold and the deck is pitching. The loop also allows a temporary snap shackle or carabiner to be added whenever needed.

I could have spliced the tails of the dyneema at the end, but I wanted to leave the loop thin and pliable. It just sits beautifully against my wrist as is.

I could also have finished off with just a simple Diamond knot and cut off the ends, but I made it a bit neater by tying a Double Lanyard knot (for length) with two "pulling cords" of whipping twine through the centre, then tying Brion's Button. The tails of the button were pulled through the Double Lanyard (it was super tight, but could be done as dyneema is slippery) and cut off.

If you don't want to fuss with making any Buttons then just skip them. The central weave can be just about anything you want. The weave BelizeSailor used would work well, but there are dozens to choose from.

Next week I will make one with the central made from two colours of paracord (maybe grey and black) and have a play with a few more weaves.

This was the final result:

[belizesailor]

Cool idea. I like the sliding adjustment.

[belizesailor]

Decided my old rigging knife needed a new lanyard. Nothing exotic, just a flat cobra hitch with a sprial cobra hitch in the middle.

I added the loop on the end by hitching a bit of line to the starting knot of the cobra hitch and then burying the ends.

[Seaworthy Lass]

Originally Posted by belizesailor

Decided my old rigging knife needed a new lanyard. Nothing exotic, just a flat cobra hitch with a sprial cobra hitch in the middle.

I added the loop on the end by hitching a bit of line to the starting knot of the cobra hitch and then burying the ends.

I really like the spiral cobra between two flat sections.

And your idea of burying the ends is an excellent one. Thanks for the tip. That worked very well for me. With the looser centre of the cobra weave, I guess this is not difficult. I found that using a "pull through" bit of twine (= "mouse line") was vital for the tighter weave though, particularly as there were four tails that needed to be buried.

I am just exploring some other designs theat could be used on a "backbone" of dyneema. There are instructions for some beautiful ones online that the dyneema could be slid through, in the style of a long Turk's Head.

SWL

[belizesailor]

Of course one downside to using dyneema is you could find yourself hitched to something by a line that has more breaking strength than your wrist! [emoji33]

[Seaworthy Lass]

Originally Posted by belizesailor

Of course one downside to using dyneema is you could find yourself hitched to something by a line that has more breaking strength than your wrist! [emoji33]

True enough.
I think though that there is a risk of this with any line used. I doubt any of the simple polyester or nylon braids being used would break before our wrist would, if push came to shove.

I should have modified the title . The purpose of using dyneema was chafe resistance compared to other cords being used. I would hate to see one of my knives lost simply because the lanyard attaching it to the knife had chafed through in time. Even if I change lanyards frequently (as I suspect I will do, the first one has already been put aside ) and chafe isn't an issue, I love the soft, featherweight feel of dyneema over my wrist. It is a million times nicer to touch than the cord used on the other lanyards I made.

I am going to see if I can find some 2mm dyneema to use on the underwater camera. 3mm doesn't fit through the bail. The main user has already complained the last lanyard is a bit "bulky and heavy". The first on the other hand was was too "simple and light". A third attempt at getting this right is needed .

SWL

[belizesailor]

A simple snap shackle pull:

[Seaworthy Lass]

Originally Posted by belizesailor

A simple snap shackle pull:

Nice twirl for the end of a flat braid .

[Seaworthy Lass]

Bellrope keyfob

I managed to find some 2mm plain navy polyester double braid today, so while I am waiting for the paracord to arrive, this evening's project was to make a small Bellrope keyfob that had caught my eye:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9YsuI5Hm2E&sns=em

Alterations:
- Double braid, not three strand was used (the traditional cream cotton does look lovely, but was unavailable) so I could not create a single strand for the initial loop as shown in the video. Instead, I followed this directions to make a two strand round braid for the initial loop:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1nCfE9_6So&sns=em

- The proportions of mine were a bit wrong (loop too big and body too long). No lengths were given so I just had to eyeball it.

- It was my first time making a Footrope knot for the end. I think either my weave or the tension (or both) were not quite right, as the three strands don't lie perfectly in the ball, but it was symmetrical and adequate and I was keen to finish, so I left it.

- Before trimming the ends and shoving them on the ball, I sewed then together with some navy thread. Each strand would only have had to dislodge about a cm for it to then unravel, which looked very insecure. As a keyfob, this is likely to get some rough treatment. Sewing the ends together eliminates any risk.

I think the Footrope knot is a lovely way of hiding the ends if there are 4 that need to be buried. They disappeared entirely into the ball at the end:

[UNCIVILIZED]

Thinking on it, the title of this thread is more than a little bit ironic, when you consider the splicing & knotting circles that the OP runs in

Originally Posted by Seaworthy Lass

True enough.
I think though that there is a risk of this with any line used. I doubt any of the simple polyester or nylon braids being used would break before our wrist would, if push came to shove.

I should have modified the title . The purpose of using dyneema was chafe resistance compared to other cords being used. I would hate to see one of my knives lost simply because the lanyard attaching it to the knife had chafed through in time. Even if I change lanyards frequently (as I suspect I will do, the first one has already been put aside ) and chafe isn't an issue, I love the soft, featherweight feel of dyneema over my wrist. It is a million times nicer to touch than the cord used on the other lanyards I made.
If you really love that feel, you could always purchase or make a Salti Bracelet, or something akin there to:
https://www.thegrommet.com/salti
https://www.etsy.com/search?q=SALTI+bracelets
Search results for: 'salti bracelet' | APS

I am going to see if I can find some 2mm dyneema to use on the underwater camera. 3mm doesn't fit through the bail. The main user has already complained the last lanyard is a bit "bulky and heavy". The first on the other hand was was too "simple and light". A third attempt at getting this right is needed .
Tell hubby to hit the weight pile a bit, & bulk up. He needs it if toting around a camera lanyard is wearing him out

SWL

For some different colors & sizes of dyneema, try www.APSltd.com & www.Velasailingsupply.com And look both in the dyneema lines sections, & the dinghy lines section. As the latter category has lots of small diameter line choices.

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by Seaworthy Lass

Nice twirl for the end of a flat braid .

Yeah, I just followed the pattern created by the set up knot a few times...may do it again an follow it a few more times.

[Seaworthy Lass]

Originally Posted by UNCIVILIZED

Thinking on it, the title of this thread is more than a little bit ironic, when you consider the splicing & knotting circles that the OP runs in

Oh, shucks, thanks. Blushing at the compliment .

This was my first attempt at fancy work and the first effort was so funny I thought I would share.

Also, there is frustratingly very little online nautical wise, certainly when it comes to basic instructions on how to start and finish weaves, a simple summary of what are good flat and round weaves for various numbers of strands, etc, that I thought I would document how I was learning. Fancy work seems to be a lost art amongst sailors, although very luckily it is strong amongst those doing craft work with paracord. Time for a revival .

I should have prefaced this thread with a comment that I come from a strong background in making soft shackles (I am totally comfortable with Diamond knots and Brion's Button) and I have a love of knot work in general. Knots and I just get along well together .

If anyone is a total beginner when it comes to knotting, some of the beautiful and seemingly complex looking weaves are actually very easy to learn, as they are just a matter of repeating the same simple cycle over and over until the desired length is reached. These weaves make excellent knife and flashlight lanyards and are a good place to start. These include the lovely Multiple Crown knot braid that uses anything from 3 strands upwards (links to instructions already posted).

If you wish to try something a little more complex, I think the next step would be to learn how to tie a Carrick bend (repeat this over and over with the intial loop made all 8 different ways until you are super comfortable with it). This then leads very simply to a Diamond knot that starts and finishes braids beautifully, as the strands all enter and exit through the centre. Instructions can be found here:
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ot-187913.html

This is a super skill to learn, as you can then also make Kohlhoff style soft shackles (easier to make well than any of the ones with a central buried section) in literally minutes.

The Double version of the Diamond knot (= The Double Lanyard) is more complex. I would not attempt this until you have mastered an ordinary Diamond knot.

Although I am a novice when it comes to fancy work and I initially struggled awfully with some of the knots on this thread, once I found instructions that made sense to me I found most of them fairly easy. Keep that in mind if you are new to knotting find some of these seemingly impossible on first try. I suggest you either persist if you have the patience (at the risk of swearing lots if prone to that), or initially stick to the more basic designs to gain experience and confidence.

SWL

[Seaworthy Lass]

Originally Posted by UNCIVILIZED

If you really love that feel, you could always purchase or make a Salti Bracelet, or something akin there to:
https://www.thegrommet.com/salti
https://www.etsy.com/search?q=SALTI+bracelets
Search results for: 'salti bracelet' | APS

More an earrings type of gal here. I don't own any bracelets. They just get in the way . But that dyneema does feel lovely against my skin .

SWL

[StuM]

Originally Posted by belizesailor

A simple snap shackle pull:

Hmmm. Thanks for giving me an idea.

That looks like a good project for Monday (public holiday here and I'm on SAR watch all day). We've got a few snap shackles of various sizes on the Farr 1/2 ton that need new pulls.

[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by StuM

Hmmm. Thanks for giving me an idea.

That looks like a good project for Monday (public holiday here and I'm on SAR watch all day). We've got a few snap shackles of various sizes on the Farr 1/2 ton that need new pulls.

A tip on these. It helps them to have a longer service life if you can make them so that you have twice as much cordage going over the ring. Or to do a serving/seizing of the line where they do, so as to cut down on wear from friction. As I described to SWL. That, or as I mentioned earlier, add a short section of line cover overtop of the thinner braid in that area (or even heat shrink), & finishing up it's ends with a bit of fancy thread work. Which is simply knot work, using smaller diameter "line" (thread in this case).

Also, for anyone making them for shackles, keep the loop which goes through or over the ring as small in diameter as possible, so that there's less chance of the open part of the loop snagging on things, causing accidental opening of the shackle at inopportune times. And you can even seize/serve the legs of the loop together once the lanyard is in place on the ring, to all but completely allow this from happening. As you'll thus be eliminating any openings which can snag on things.

Oh, & you can also paint the high wear points of any lanyard pull, or fancy knotwork with Maxi Jacket if you like. But test it on a scrap piece of line first to ensure that you'll be okay with how it looks on a finished item.
The Maxi Jacket will make it wear much less than leaving it plain would, though it will stiffen things up a fair bit.