code zero, what is recommended clearance from forestay.

[Oceanride007]

Never been on a boat with a code zero (Cz) but am leaning towards getting one. Just now planning my Bowsprit, (Intend using 50mm x 10mm SS flat welded on top of 75mm x 12mm flat SS bar, My steel boat is strongly constructed up fwd. Don't intend having bob stay (think thats what its called, from Bow sprit end to bifurcation point at waterline.)
Anyway, my boat 41ft Passport is mast rig, with a spinnaker halyard block mounted a few inches fwd of mast on its crane. When I've spoken to other owners it appears they have had issues with operation of Cz, (not sure what) but to my eye they have insufficient clearance from furled heady, tack point for Cz is near the Bow Roller area.
Of course up top clearance is much less on Mastrig. So 2 questions, what clearance from furled jib would be about right. And, what alteration if any to mast cranes to assist operation. Thks

[Kestrahl]

Originally Posted by Oceanride007

Never been on a boat with a code zero (Cz) but am leaning towards getting one. Just now planning my Bowsprit, (Intend using 50mm x 10mm SS flat welded on top of 75mm x 12mm flat SS bar, My steel boat is strongly constructed up fwd. Don't intend having bob stay (think thats what its called, from Bow sprit end to bifurcation point at waterline.)
Anyway, my boat 41ft Passport is mast rig, with a spinnaker halyard block mounted a few inches fwd of mast on its crane. When I've spoken to other owners it appears they have had issues with operation of Cz, (not sure what) but to my eye they have insufficient clearance from furled heady, tack point for Cz is near the Bow Roller area.
Of course up top clearance is much less on Mastrig. So 2 questions, what clearance from furled jib would be about right. And, what alteration if any to mast cranes to assist operation. Thks

A photo of the mast crane may help. We had a CZ on a masthead rig with the standard crane. There wasn't any issues, but the luff does need to be tight. I've also sold Code Zeros to many customers without any crane modifications. the racing CZ's have stiff corners to reduce creases out of the corners. The top doesn't roll quite so nice and would catch on a furled headsail if it is close. The cruising code zero should be made with soft corners. Having a proper torsion rope of the maximum diameter for the furler also helps to have a nice furl.

[Oceanride007]

Spoke to my preferred sail maker, he wanted a metre (3.14ft) forward of jib furler. The forces would be massive, but also I couldn't reach out there to put it on safely. Maybe I could try for .75metre, next size up stainless steel flat plate would be 100mm x 12mm but fitting becomes a issue, of course bowsprit projects aft as well by a metre to reach nearest deck support. Your thoughts are most encouraged, especially on bowsprit distance forward and size of the beam, do prefer "T" section and it would be removable.

[Kestrahl]

Your sailmaker is thinking racing.

It can be just in front of the existing furler provided it clears everything. We made our bowsprit just long enough for the torsion rope to clear the pulpit.

The longer the bowsprit the better it will perform at deeper angles, and the more sail area you can have.

Cheers
Phil

[Tabaqui]

Mine has about 10cm clearance between the furlers. Works just fine. Cant tack without furling the Cz tho. Jybing is no problem. I have a fractional rig.

[thinwater]

Mine has an articulated bow sprit (4'), which is a big help, but that does complicate construction.


What about UV protection? I see some with and some without. Obviously weight matters. What about paint (Yup, Doyle and North offer it that way).