Chotu's Rigging Thread - Time to Go Fast

[chris95040]

#subscribed for the core repair bombshell

[Wotname]

Thread has been re-opened after the removal of a handful of rude / personal attack / troll posts.

Please post thoughtfully and respectfully - thank you.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Wotname

Thread has been re-opened after the removal of a handful of rude / personal attack / troll posts.

Please post thoughtfully and respectfully - thank you.

Thank you. Sorry for any of those that were mine.

I will keep my ramblings to this thread instead and stay on topic with rigging.

I didn’t want to start so many other threads about things. It should all be inside here. Firewalled away. Lol

So the rigging discussion will be in here instead of all over the place.

Thank you.

[Chotu]

Progress today (and over the weekend):

-Internal conduit installed in mast
-messenger line installed in conduit
-double diamond spreaders on and diamond shrouds mostly attached (I have 2 to attach in the morning)
-all shrouds and new forestay are in place
-hole drilled in side of mast at top to allow for wiring for vhf, wind, TRICOLOR light. He’s making me get one. Lol
-ordered tricolor and steaming/deck lights from my defender commercial account for delivery tomorrow
-ordered 4ga Ancor tinned copper and a local switch/breaker panel for my distributed wiring project it’s time to do after the rig
-new sheaves fitted from Zephyrwerks
-sanded inside sheave boxes and all dividing plates to bare aluminum and put on self etching primer
-trial fit all sheaves on pins (Zephyrwerks is PERFECT highly recommend)
-took every old wire and piece of junk out of the mast
-Crane comes Thursday

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by chris95040

#subscribed for the core repair bombshell

Core bombshell:


On highly loaded boats such as catamarans with 25ft beams and 74ft masts, it is not enough to simply drill and fill like I have always done on my 1980’s monohulls. Like we all talk about doing here in the forum. Resin will crush and crack apart under the loads.

We must use fiber!

The big secret here is as follows:

1) overdrill your hole size
2) get some fiberglass tube making sure it’s the right size to catch the hardware forces
3) cut fiberglass tube to fit end-on into the holes
4) butter up the tubes and stick them in place, making sure there is not a path to the core (maybe some liquid resin too to be sure)
5) fill with resin as normal
6) drill out your hole and install hardware knowing it can take thousands and thousands of pounds of pressure, far outperforming the old drill and fill method

[Lee Jerry]

Originally Posted by Chotu

Core bombshell:


On highly loaded boats such as catamarans with 25ft beams and 74ft masts, it is not enough to simply drill and fill like I have always done on my 1980’s monohulls. Like we all talk about doing here in the forum. Resin will crush and crack apart under the loads.

We must use fiber!

The big secret here is as follows:

1) overdrill your hole size
2) get some fiberglass tube making sure it’s the right size to catch the hardware forces
3) cut fiberglass tube to fit end-on into the holes
4) butter up the tubes and stick them in place, making sure there is not a path to the core (maybe some liquid resin too to be sure)
5) fill with resin as normal
6) drill out your hole and install hardware knowing it can take thousands and thousands of pounds of pressure, far outperforming the old drill and fill method

Yup...

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ml#post3759292

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Lee Jerry

Yup...

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ml#post3759292

Very nice!

Yet something that’s almost never done or talked about being done on here. A must for higher loads.

[RaymondR]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

And how to pull the conduit against the inside wall of the mast? I believe they used thin stainless steel wire on our mast because I see the cut-off ends at the rivets.

You make a "rabbit" to neatly fit inside the mast section with a groove for the conduit to slide in positioned for where you want the conduit to be riveted inside the mast.

A line through the mast pulls the rabbit through in steps as you drill and pull the rivets.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by RaymondR

You make a "rabbit" to neatly fit inside the mast section with a groove for the conduit to slide in positioned for where you want the conduit to be riveted inside the mast.

A line through the mast pulls the rabbit through in steps as you drill and pull the rivets.

What is a rabbit? Does it have a groove for conduit to slide in? Why also fasten with rivets? Do these rivets end up inside the conduit?

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

What is a rabbit? Does it have a groove for conduit to slide in? Why also fasten with rivets? Do these rivets end up inside the conduit?

I expect, he meant "rabbet", tho' I expect you knew that.
A rabbet [or a dado] is a groove, , on the edge of a piece, that creates a lip.
In wood joinery, the rabbet fits snuggly into a groove

[Knotical]

Originally Posted by Chotu

Core bombshell:


On highly loaded boats such as catamarans with 25ft beams and 74ft masts, it is not enough to simply drill and fill like I have always done on my 1980’s monohulls. Like we all talk about doing here in the forum. Resin will crush and crack apart under the loads.

We must use fiber!

The big secret here is as follows:

1) overdrill your hole size
2) get some fiberglass tube making sure it’s the right size to catch the hardware forces
3) cut fiberglass tube to fit end-on into the holes
4) butter up the tubes and stick them in place, making sure there is not a path to the core (maybe some liquid resin too to be sure)
5) fill with resin as normal
6) drill out your hole and install hardware knowing it can take thousands and thousands of pounds of pressure, far outperforming the old drill and fill method

This is not new, installed hardware on 2 spots on my boat a year ago using this method.

[RaymondR]

A "rabbit" is something you pull or push through any sort of passage, pipe or conduit.

It guides the conduit into the correct position to be fastened.

The rivets need to be only long enough to mushroom and as soon as you feel it starts mushrooming stop pulling and drive the mandrel through the rivet to remove it (drill completely through both sides of the conduit so the mandrel can pass through)

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Knotical

This is not new, installed hardware on 2 spots on my boat a year ago using this method.

Yeah, but how often does anyone do this and how often do we talk about doing this on the forum?

When you say “drill and fill” this does not come to mind.

It’s a really good technique.

[Knotical]

Originally Posted by Chotu

Yeah, but how often does anyone do this and how often do we talk about doing this on the forum?

When you say “drill and fill” this does not come to mind.

It’s a really good technique.

Not talking about it on the forum doesn’t mean it’s not being done, most “drill and fill” is done for fasteners and stuff where you don’t need extra reinforcement, but I agree with its use when drilling a larger hole.

Same principle applies for repairing hull damage/defect, epoxy is fine for smaller repairs but glass should be used for larger ones.