Asymmetrical Spinnaker Rigging Questions

[bewitched]

CaptNemo02. There are lots of ways to set up a tack line. The more forward the position, the better. I have two bow rollers like you and I just take the tackline under the spare roller. No need for the ring (which is way too big and not rigged properly by the way). If you were able to swap the anchor over to the other side, this would be ideal. But I guess this will probably mess up your lead to the windlass, so the other roller should be OK.

I would definitely go outside the pulpit with the tackline. Reason for this is if you are reaching, you will want to get the tack line down snug to the roller, and leading it inside the pullpit will put a sideways load on the pullpit, mess up your sail shape and cause a lot of wear on the sail as it goes over the rail.

If the object is to go downwind, easing the tack line out and keeping it perpendicular to the deck is what you should be aiming for. You can almost drive the boat to the angle of the tack line: tack line leaning to leeward, turn to leeward. Tack line leaning to windward, turn to windward.

Another problem that is likely to arise is that during the gybe, a sheet gets caught up in the anchor, or goes under the boat. The best cure for this I have found is to get your sailmaker to sew a 4 inch aluminium bar inside webbing onto the tack of the sail. The idea is that the lazy sheet justs sits there and if you do a neat gybe, the new lazy sheet will just drop in.

I think you can just see this sticking out in the attached pic (though I don't have the lazy sheet sitting in it).

Common mistakes with these sails is to have too much tackline out when reaching and not easing the sheet enough when running.

[cwyckham]

Originally Posted by bewitched

CaptNemo02. There are lots of ways to set up a tack line. The more forward the position, the better. I have two bow rollers like you and I just take the tackline under the spare roller. No need for the ring (which is way too big and not rigged properly by the way). If you were able to swap the anchor over to the other side, this would be ideal. But I guess this will probably mess up your lead to the windlass, so the other roller should be OK.

I would definitely go outside the pulpit with the tackline. Reason for this is if you are reaching, you will want to get the tack line down snug to the roller, and leading it inside the pullpit will put a sideways load on the pullpit, mess up your sail shape and cause a lot of wear on the sail as it goes over the rail.

If the object is to go downwind, easing the tack line out and keeping it perpendicular to the deck is what you should be aiming for. You can almost drive the boat to the angle of the tack line: tack line leaning to leeward, turn to leeward. Tack line leaning to windward, turn to windward.

Another problem that is likely to arise is that during the gybe, a sheet gets caught up in the anchor, or goes under the boat. The best cure for this I have found is to get your sailmaker to sew a 4 inch aluminium bar inside webbing onto the tack of the sail. The idea is that the lazy sheet justs sits there and if you do a neat gybe, the new lazy sheet will just drop in.

I think you can just see this sticking out in the attached pic (though I don't have the lazy sheet sitting in it).

Common mistakes with these sails is to have too much tackline out when reaching and not easing the sheet enough when running.

Can you explain your notes on steering by the tack line?

When I am running deep, I see it as an advantage to have the luff projecting out to windward. Why am I wrong?

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[CaptNemoO2]

Originally Posted by bewitched

CaptNemo02. There are lots of ways to set up a tack line. The more forward the position, the better. I have two bow rollers like you and I just take the tackline under the spare roller. No need for the ring (which is way too big and not rigged properly by the way). If you were able to swap the anchor over to the other side, this would be ideal. But I guess this will probably mess up your lead to the windlass, so the other roller should be OK.

You are correct in that I can't switch the anchor rollers. The starboard side is further forward and is a two piece (hinged forward section) so the anchor clears the hull and the anchor has an all chain rode so it can't be moved anyways.

I'm using the ring because if I went right around the anchor roller the line would exit below the level of the deck and chafe. The ring is sized for the line going around it, 11mm. I believe I have it rigged right per all images on Colligo website.

http://www.colligomarine.com/product...lashing-blocks

This isn't the regular low friction rings from Antal or Harken where the line passes through the middle. But if I do indeed have it wrong please correct me.

I also finally got my blocks in. I just need to get out of the Department of Boat Owners Fundraising office in time to get some shock cord to keep them, and the Colligo ring off the deck.

Also, one of the pictures is of the tackline running back to a cabin top winch.


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[bewitched]

OK - I thought it was a huge low friction ring, not a block you had there. So OK if it can articulate easily.

For the sail trim of an A-sail that is designed for down wind work - most will call this an A2, - the basics for sailing downwind are:

Ease sheet until outside telltales lift

Ease tack line until luff breaks evenly along its length. You will have to play with these two controls until you find the sweet spot.

Rotating the luff round to windward as you say is a good thing. but it can be overdone - driving too deep and rotating too much will generally reduce the VMG after a certain point. Once the tack line is vertical, that is a ball park indication that you are deep enough. Going past the vertical can be done if you get overpowered in the puffs, but generally it is just slow.

If the tack line drops off to leeward this is an indication that you are driving too high....or more commonly with those not familiar with trimming these sails.. that the sheet is on too much. The secret with these sails is to let them breathe.

Take a look at this photo of the boat in front. Sheet well eased is generating good power, but tack line is on too much and so the luff is breaking at the top only. An ease of the tack line by about a foot would be perfect. The boat behind is maybe sheeted on a tad too much as luff is not breaking.

[CaptNemoO2]

Thanks for the help guys! I finally got it flying Saturday.

The static block did not work out how I hoped, the line kept popping out of the groove so I turned it 90° and used it like a low friction ring. That worked better. With the tack attached to the roller, the tack line stayed out in front of the pulpit, but when I jibed, with the sail doused in the sock, the tack line got hung up on the pulpit on the windward side. I'll have to work on that! The sock worked great too, I cant say if its easier with it than without, but it definitely makes putting it away a lot easier.

As for the results... Still need to work on learning how to trim the sail. I found that the easiest point of sail was on a beam reach. Not saying it was the best, but I was more able to consistently feel like it was trimmed right. I was able to get 7.8 knots SOG in 7.5 knots apparent wind.

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by carstenb

I can imagine. Our gennaker (for a forty footer) is a lot to handle. I wouldn't want to try to handle one alone for a 66 footer. Do keep us informed about how the furler works - I've been thinking about getting one, but so far the sock works ok

We run our AS in an ATN sock. Its tough to douse in winds over 10 apparent. It can be done if you bear off dead down & let it collapse behind the main. We use the same technique for the code zero in its ATN. I found these roller bearing "Single blocks with adjustable shackle" from Garhauer quite reasonable at 83 dollars. Garhauer Marine Hardware -8952452

I often rig the AS on a pole and fly it aft if we will be well off the wind. I don't have many options getting the tack line away from the pulpit & anchors. There is a nice eye bracket on the bow weldment but it is totally obstructed by stuff.

[cwyckham]

Originally Posted by CaptNemoO2

Thanks for the help guys! I finally got it flying Saturday.

The static block did not work out how I hoped, the line kept popping out of the groove so I turned it 90° and used it like a low friction ring. That worked better. With the tack attached to the roller, the tack line stayed out in front of the pulpit, but when I jibed, with the sail doused in the sock, the tack line got hung up on the pulpit on the windward side. I'll have to work on that! The sock worked great too, I cant say if its easier with it than without, but it definitely makes putting it away a lot easier.

As for the results... Still need to work on learning how to trim the sail. I found that the easiest point of sail was on a beam reach. Not saying it was the best, but I was more able to consistently feel like it was trimmed right. I was able to get 7.8 knots SOG in 7.5 knots apparent wind.

Great news. You'll find gybing a lot easier if you don't douse each time. It does take practice. The key is to pause DDW to give lots of time to sort the sails

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