I am 100% sure water did not enter the cooling loops. Wiring was badly corroded. Initially, i got deterred by the mess of corroded wires around the relay and start capacitor. I ripped all that out 2 years ago when i was gutting the boat
. Replacement compressor comes in today(used, working condition, probably as good a the one i have but not as rusty). Now that i have the holdover plates and condenser coils pressure tested, I bought nitorgen tank and regulator
and have the service valve set from 10 years ago when i built the danfos based unit on my old boat
, I am going to give this a try.
If it looks like its failing and I run into problems, i will start from scratch and look for a new system.
So with danfoss based DC systems, Controller has labeling and you just follow the datasheet/installation manual and its pretty straight forward where everything goes.
With these, it is not so straight forward and i am trying to figure it out. Seafrost website has good wiring diagrams for their AC units which i was able to use to deduce some wiring intuition.
In a typical 110V AC system with only a start capacitor, I understand there is a relay. You don't want thermostat or high pressure switch carrying full current
or startup current
. So high pressure switch and freezer thermostat controls that relay.
From what i gather Line(hot)comes to relay input(high current contact). High current Relay output contact goes to start cap. Other side of start cap(assuming non-polarized) goes to start terminal on the compressor. Relay output also goes to thermistor (or overcurrent device on the body of compressor) and then to Run terminal on the compressor.
Earth/Ground is wired to body of compressor and neutral is the terminal labeled common on the compressor.
So start Cap is a transient short and as it charges it reduces current flow in start coil(inside compressor). So it must be high impedance at 60Hz. By then run circuit should take over.
And the evaporator fan or a waterpump if i decide to add water condensing loop, would be wired to run with compressor Run circuit.
Is there anything else that i might be missing?
I am a bit off the beaten path here as everyone is going to 12V systems. But i have a good generator
and i am at the dock most of the summer. And restoring engine
drive side is in the plans.
I design portable GFCI and arc
fault circuit interrupters for one of our clients and i am wondering if having one in the dedicated fridge circuit would improve safety